Street Project: Paris

I've accepted that we'll never see everything there is to see nor photograph everything there is to photograph in Paris.  It is so big and its tapestry so rich that it would take ages to experience it all.  But, that won't stop us from trying.

Weekend Away Kit

iPhone 5s

We went back to Paris last weekend for a quick break from the doldrums.  Our train came in late Friday night and we left about mid-day on Sunday, so we really only had Saturday there.  We decided that we'd use the brief visit to explore some of the markets Paris is famous for.  It was also a chance for me to try my hand at street style photography, something I've been itching to do for a while (UPDATE: scroll to the bottom to learn what a giant cluster this actually is).  And, it presented the perfect opportunity to try out the kit I had designed for weekend travels.  Our trips are usually pretty brief.  On average they're 4 days because my husband only has 10 days vacation for the year (The Company has a terrible vacation policy for its American employees, a definite sore point when everyone else in Germany is given 30 by law!).  Sometimes on these brief escapes carrying several bodies just isn't practical or necessary.  One of the reasons I opted for a mirrorless system for my second body was because of the smaller size and increased versatility.  They're perfect cameras for travel.  The kit I came up with for a couple days in Paris was composed of the Fujifilm X-E2 paired with the 35mm lens.  I stuck the 18-55mm lens in the bag for good measure (and because I had the room). I brought along my old Joby GorillaPod, the remote shutter, and, of course, spare batteries and cards.  All of this fit in in a small camera foam partition which slides easily into my 38x12x28cm Vaho Ginkgo bag while leaving room for other daily essentials.  It was the perfect setup for carrying a camera around the city all day and using it easily without hindering or drawing attention to me.

We spent half of Saturday at the Vanves flea market in the 14th arrondissement.  Quality antique flea markets (sadly, a rarity in the States) are a great place for picking up unique and bargain items.  They're also perfect places for watching and photographing people.  The Vanves market seemed populated almost entirely of character actors.  I'm not sure what was more fun, browsing through all oddments or soaking up the scene.

Street portraits are a tricky business (NOTE: more on why at the bottom).  Most people don't like having their picture taken without knowing about it, let alone by a random stranger.  But, candid street portraits present the most realistic presentation of a city's soul, in my opinion.  They're not posed, processed, or planned.  What you see is what you get.  Not all cameras setups can work for this sort of photography.  I can tell you my Canon 600D with the painfully slow 50mm lens and KA-CHUNK KA-CHUNK shutter definitely does not.  But, the X-E2 with the 35mm was perfect for this experiment.  The lens' autofocus is nice and quick and the camera itself can be set up specifically for stealthy street photography.  With all the hustle and bustle in the markets I found myself shooting from the hip more often than not, and was pleased with what the camera captured.  Having dials at my finger tips instead of a menu I had to scroll through made it easy to switch settings in order to capture some of the interesting items for sale as well.

Disorganized bric-à-brac

Keychains

Curiosity

Minibars of a bygone time

The following day we breezed through the Porte de Vincennes food market on our way to the Gare de l'Est and our train home.  We didn't have time to make any purchases, but it was a lively place to wander through on a Sunday morning.  Of course, this neighborhood has been in the news recently because of the tragic events of January 9th.  It didn't feel right to come to Paris without paying our respects to the victims of the dreadful events of two months ago.  The Porte de Vincennes Hyper Cacher kosher market where four Jewish men were executed by the ISIL jihadist Amedy Coulibaly is still closed.  Barricades block access to the building and it is under constant guard by gendarmes.  A month after the attacks a 38 year old man tried to ignite an Israeli flag in front of the store and was immediately arrested.  Concerns for the Jewish population of Paris remain.  Today, bouquets of dead flowers and water filled candles still rest along the barricade.  There were few visitors to the site despite the bustling market across the street that morning.  The store is scheduled to reopen again later this month.  It is unknown if there is a plan to erect a permanent memorial or if when the flowers and candles are cleared away there will be nothing to remind people of what happened here.  In a time when such atrocities are becoming commonplace remembrance is extremely important.

We ended up with some extra time before our train so we wandered over to the Canal Saint-Martin near the train station to watch the boats and enjoy a quiet moment before heading home.

And, of course, train stations are always perfect places for some candids.  Paris's stations are some of the busiest in Europe.  We always arrive and depart from Gare de l'Est and usually wait there for an hour so we can grab lunch or dinner.  I enjoyed being able to snap away from my bench while we waited, capturing the mundane moments of travel and the character of the old station.  We adore train travel and intend to do more of it in the coming year.  Trains are more comfortable, quieter, easier, and fun than flying.  And, spending time in the stations certainly beats the purgatory of airports.  If we can get a train somewhere, we'll take it.

I was really pleased with my choice of kit for our weekend in Paris.  I never used the 18-55mm lens as I enjoyed the creative challenges and payoffs of working only with a fixed focal length.  It was my first extensive use of the 35mm since I received it last month, and its performance for fast paced street photos was impressive.  The old Canon "nifty fifty" has officially been retired.  I also decided to only shoot in black and white.  For me, Paris is striking in monochrome and I have a very hard time thinking of shooting it any other way.  Fujifilm's black and white film simulation has excellent balance and contrast.  Thanks to that and the excellent 35mm lens I didn't need to do anything in post except crop.

The last shot of the weekend was taken back in Frankfurt at the train station as the lowering sun pierced through the glass canopy over the platforms, putting the passing travelers in silhouette.  I snapped it just as we ducked through the exit onto the street bringing a wonderful weekend away in our favorite capital to a close.

The rest of the photos can be viewed on Flickr.

BIG HONKING NOTE:  Some of you may be asking "Hey, you're writing about street candids but I don't see any on here" or "Hey, I looked at Flickr or this post earlier and there were more photos."  Well, you'd be very correct in your observations.  I'm definitely still learning some stuff and this experiment had me crossing a bridge I haven't encountered before with landscapes and cityscapes- European photography laws.  I knew street photography isn't favorably looked upon here in Germany.  Heck, they don't even have Google Streetview in the majority of the country.  More and more street photographers are experiencing hostility (and sometimes assault) from subjects, even in popular public places where people would likely be taking photographs.  Basically it's illegal to publish (yes, even if it's just going online but not for sale) someone's picture in Germany without their permission.  There are exceptions, if it's a public event like a demonstration or a sporting event, if they're a celebrity (but not their kids), if you would be unable to determine their identity in the photo (face is obscured), or if they're a performer.  If there are a bunch of people in the photo (some sources say more than six) it's ok to have them in the picture.  The laws may be changing by becoming more strict in the near future, but that's still up in the air.  So, the picture above is totally fine because you cannot recognize anyone in it due to the lighting.

I didn't even think about this in Paris.  I mean, France is the birthplace of the great street photographers like Cartier-Bresson.  We visited the Henri Cartier-Bresson Foundation last weekend, for crying out loud.  People are snapping photos all over the city all the time.  But, in reading about the possible change of legislation in Germany, I discovered that France is just as, if not more, strict.  You cannot take someone's photo without their permission at all (except at sporting events, celebrities in a public place).  People own the rights to their faces, basically.  I cannot legally exhibit a photograph taken in France with a recognizable person in it outside of the above exceptions (whew, on the Tour de France stuff!).  There are even some strict laws regarding permanent objects like, for example, the Eiffel Tower.  French photography laws (explained rather well here) are, in short, ridiculous.  They celebrate their pioneers of photography with numerous exhibitions and museums, but then tell modern photographers that they can't practice their art there.  In this day and age of smartphones it's impossible to enforce these laws consistently, but lawsuits do happen- most often in regards to candids of individuals.  It's a sad situation, because in my opinion freedom of expression has been completely stamped out.  This doesn't stop people from taking candids from the hip (and it won't stop me), but it does stop me from showing them to you online, in a book, or on a gallery wall.  Hopefully, one day these laws will be reigned in and all these moments of place and culture captured by street photographers will be legal.  Until then, I'll keep snapping in France and Germany, but, alas, you'll have to schedule a private viewing of the results.  I'm pretty sure HCB is rolling in his grave.  If he were alive today, he would be prosecuted!  C’est n’importe quoi !

Oh, and if you're shooting in Hungary, bring your tripod, ND filters, and remote shutter for your day shots. 

Tribulations of February

Sigh.  February has been a rough month.  Have we ridden countless miles in blustery weather? Nope.  Have we been climbing up in the Spessart Mountains or the Odenwald to take winter landscape shots at sunrise? No.  Have we been traveling like mad? Nein.

In fact, I have spent the majority of February sitting at home doing absolutely nothing.  That thing I did to my hand several weeks ago ended up becoming a really inconvenient, life stalling problem.  This is what happened.  It's cold out, right? When it gets cold, I dry out (like a lot of people).  Well, for some reason I developed a particularly dry patch of skin in between the index and middle finger of my right hand, maybe from doing a lot of cooking or being out in the wet, cold weather.  I dunno.  I didn't think too much about it, applied some moisturizer and thought that was that.  Then I woke myself up one night scratching at this spot.  So, I picked up some Cortisone cream at the pharmacy, lathered it on and we went on to Heidelberg to take those shots I put up a couple weeks ago.  By the time we came home it was clear that the Cortisone cream and I didn't get along.  I won't go into the graphic details, but let's just say I kinda felt like a leper.  It was a rather nasty case of contact dermatitis.  It was painful and it itched like crazy.  I couldn't get my hand wet, I couldn't expose it to the cold, and I couldn't move my fingers without aggravating it further.  So, I couldn't use a camera, ride my bike (not even on a trainer), go outside, type, use a pen, cut my food, zip my coat, carry anything, etc.  Taking a shower was a complicated feat of acrobatics.  At first I didn't think it would be that big of a deal, but dermatitis takes a really long time to heal and this went on for weeks and weeks and weeks.  I've never had something like this happen before.  Even my worst bike wreck injuries (which, thankfully, haven't been too serious) have healed faster than this.  The only thing that you can do is keep it moisturized and covered, take antihistamines, and wait.  And wait.  So, I dug out (with my left hand) a spare box of cotton gloves I bought back in the day when I worked with old documents and have been sporting one a la Michael Jackson for the majority of the month. So embarrassing.  Now, being an introvert, having to spend a long period of time shut up in the house isn't a complete death sentence.  But, even I have my limits.  Not being able to do anything easily made it especially frustrating.  When I became completely unhinged last weekend over a problem with GoDaddy, I knew I was in trouble.  Mercifully, it has finally healed up to the point I can use my hand again.  I still have to wear the glove for a little bit longer to prevent a relapse, but I think I'm finally on the other side.  Sheesh.

Kids, the moral of the story is, TAKE CARE OF YOUR SKIN!

One the bright side, if something like that has to happen at least it happened when we didn't have any significant plans.  I had hoped to spend the month doing landscapes and cityscapes, but it's no huge tragedy that I couldn't.  Those places will still be there.   Also, it gave me a lot of time to read, and so I decided to revisit the works of J.R.R Tolkien.  Immersing myself back in my favorite mythical world has been really nice and may have kept me from going completely mental.  It has been quite a while since I've read all the books.  Of course, that led to re-watching all of the films...I guess there are worst ways to spend a convalescence.

While I still can't go outside, I can use a camera again.
Good chance to experiment with still lifes.

Right.  One more weekend to go then back at it.  Good thing too, we's getting rather flabby, Precious.

The Quest of the Unholy Mountain

I think I wrote not too long ago that Winter is a great time to shoot low light landscapes and such because the sun rises late and sets early.  Well, that's all well and good if the weather is agreeable.

Somehow I don't think the specs are necessary here.

Believe it or not you're looking at a big arena that can seat several thousand people.  Last Sunday we headed to Heidelberg, not to see the world's largest wine barrel, visit the castle ruins, or walk through the shopping district.  We intended to climb the "Holy Mountain" (Heilingenberg) and photograph some rather curious sights.  Instead, we climbed Heilingenberg, into a snowy fog, got lost a couple times (once again due to a lack of proper signage) and saw just a shadow of what we intended to see.  The first place was the above arena.  Truth be told, I was hoping there'd be snow or fog, but this was a little more than I was thinking.  This arena has a sinister past, and some gloomy atmospherics would fit it nicely.  It was built in 1935.  That date is probably a clue to who had it built.

Joseph Goebbels, Hitler's minister of propaganda, came up with the idea of building 1,000 of these arenas for the purpose of holding Nazi propaganda plays, presentations, and films.  These arenas were called Thingstatte or Thingplatz, in a typical Nazi attempt to tie into a fanciful Germanic past.  "Things" were actually Medieval Norse (Scandinavian) and Germanic gatherings of free men held to settle clan issues and make group decisions.  They are a very rudimentary basis for today's parliaments.  As usual, the Nazis perverted German culture heritage, in this case twisting a gathering of free people with equal voices into a tool for cultural brainwashing.  The movement wasn't a priority for Hitler, so the Thingstatte above Heidelberg turned out to be one of only 45 that were actually constructed.  This one housed 20,000 participants on its opening day, when Goebbels himself oversaw the ceremony.  After the war, the arena was abandoned for the most part.  Today it is sometimes used for concerts and open air movies.  But, mostly it sits as an empty and moss draped curiosity.  It is a popular spot to explore on Sundays, even if it is covered in ice and shrouded in a thick fog.

Fujifilm X-E2 ISO 1600 30mm f/4 1/250  

Fujifilm X-E2 ISO 1600 18mm f/11 1/60

The other site I was hoping to photograph were the ruins of the church of the Michaelkloster, a 11th century monastery.  The church incorporates the ruins of a Roman temple to Mercury.  The mountain is covered in archaeological sites; this is one of most important.  But...

iPhone 5s

Well, we climbed the Holy Mountain as fast as possible despite the lack of signs in the super thick mist and finally arrived at St. Michael's Cloister to find an actual useful sign which conveyed a great deal of information (don't sell things here, don't set things on fire, don't come in when the gate is shut, respect the premises, the authorities will track you down if you do any of this stuff...).  However, what it did not say was that it won't be open even when the sign says it should be.  While tourists can haul themselves up here through snow, ice, and fog, the person responsible for making sure people don't sell stuff or light stuff on fire couldn't be bothered.

Thankfully, the hut at the top of the mountain was open so we could grab a drink and thaw out.  That was that.  No pictures of ruins, just pictures of mist over a barely recognizable, uh, thing.  Ok, Winter, you're tough.

We did grab this shot of the Alte Brucke on our way to dinner.

Fujifilm X-E2 ISO 200 46mm f/10 15secs, soft focus filter

 Somehow over the course of all this I managed to tweak the index and middle finger of my right hand.  Being a righty, this causes me a bit of a problem in just about everything, but most definitely for holding or operating a camera.  So, I'm out of commission until things heal up.  Perhaps I'll do a little indoor work this week.  Perhaps.

Misadventures at Hohenzollern Castle

Last weekend's plans fell through so we decided to take advantage of our stolen time by taking a rather industrious day trip into Baden-Württemberg to check out the famous Hohenzollern Castle.  A six hour drive there and back didn't seem so terrible.  Heck, we used to make that drive down to Columbus and back when we lived in Akron just to have dinner (at a German family restaurant, oddly enough).  Anyway, it all sounded perfectly reasonable.

So, we left early in the morning of Sunday and headed down to the castle.  The drive went along smoothly, albeit insanely dull.  One highpoint was getting stuck in a small town that was holding a parade for people dressed as witches.  Whether that was some sort of traditional Carnival activity or not was never determined.  After escaping the witches we arrived in the village below the castle (this is starting to sound like a work of the Grimm brothers).  The plan was to go to the park on a hill opposite the castle to take some pictures than head to the castle for a tour.  Well, when we arrived this was the view.

Fujifilm X-E2 ISO 800 55m f/10 1/500

Not exactly what I was hoping for.  Additionally, as you can see, it had snowed quite a bit.  While making the surroundings extremely beautiful, it made finding a trail to the park impossible.  Ah, if only there were things you could hang up on trees or posts that could indicate to visitors the proper direction for such attractions.  I believe they're known as signs in my neck of the woods.  Eh hem.  Anyway, even if we had found a sign that indicated the correct direction of the viewpoint to the castle, the low laying clouds completely enveloped the castle and the hill where this park supposedly existed.  So, after taking a few shots in the forest we decided to head over to the castle for the tour and hope for better weather afterwards.  

Fujifilm X-E2 ISO 800 55mm f/13 1/500

Hohenzollern Castle is considered one of the most beautiful castles in Germany.  It is.  However, besides its aesthetic qualities, the castle itself isn't a very interesting attraction.  The castle was built by the Hohenzollern family in the mid-1800's to replace a ruin from the mid-1400's.  At this point the Hohenzollerns were an important dynastic family in Germany.  Kings of Prussia and the emperors of the short-lived German Empire (1871-1918) were members.  The castle was basically built as showpiece for the family, much like the better known Neuschwanstein Castle in Bavaria.  No one lived in Hohenzollern Castle, so anyone hoping for a peep into the lifestyle of the German emperors will be disappointed.  Basically, it is a shrine to the glory days of a family long past its time of influence or importance.  The tour, thankfully inexpensive, takes the visitor through a handful of dusty, unheated rooms that apparently never really served much of a purpose when they were constructed.  Non-German speakers are given a book in their language to read on the tour, an activity, quite frankly, which could be attempted more comfortably in the visitor center.  Perhaps audioguides along with signage will some day catch on in the future.  If the grounds are wet, the visitor is obligated to wear giant slippers over their shoes making the somewhat dull tour more interesting with the prospect of oneself or someone else tripping on the uneven floors and crashing into a "priceless" yet tarnished decorative item.  The tour concludes in the treasury where you can see the crown of Wilhelm II, among other things.  However, like the castle itself, the crown was never used either.  So, the visitor (unless they are fans of the Hohenzollern dynasty) walks away feeling like they just visited a roadside attraction which cost an ridiculous amount of money to construct so some folks could play act at being fairytale royalty.  

But, that doesn't mean it isn't a remarkable photographic subject.  While regretting the time and money spent on the tour, the view from the castle of the surrounding countryside was worth taking the paid bus ride to the top of Hohenzollern Berg.

We never made it back to the hill overlooking the castle.  The sun was already heading down by the time the tour had ended and we climbed back down the hill to the car.  So, I never got the shot I had dragged us three hours down the autobahn to take .  One of the lessons I'm learning during this experimentation with landscape photography is how important proper planning is.  Don't try to fit too much.  But, most importantly you can't account for the weather.  As it worked out, I ended up taking the last shot of the trip from the side of the road below the castle.  The light of the ending day ended up being pale and subtle as the heavy cloud cover cleared away.  While nothing really ended up being the way we hoped and some plans went awry, this unexpected view ended up being quite satisfactory.

Canon 600D ISO 100 19mm f/9 40secs, 10 stop ND filter, two exposure blend with Photoshop

The rest of the photos from our Hohenzollern misadventures can be viewed on Flickr and some will be up on Instagram and for sale Twenty20 as well.

Three Shots from Aschaffenburg

While the weather isn't particularly pleasant over the next few months and there aren't any state holidays on the Hessian calendar until Easter, we're pretty much staying close to home on the weekends.  It's kind of nice not to have anywhere we need to be.  It gives time for leisurely Saturday morning bike rides to a cafe for a pastry and a coffee, Sunday lie ins, Netflix binges, backgammon tournaments and strolls along the river.  The first few months of the year can be pretty dull now that the holidays are over, and Winter still remains.  But, there is one thing about Winter that makes it worth going out, the light.

Since we don't have anywhere to be, we thought it'd be a good chance to do a little exploring around the area and to take some photos around sunrise or sunset.  Sunrise is around 8:00am, so that doesn't require any ridiculous alarm times.  Sunset happens around 5:00pm, providing plenty of shooting time before dinner.  So, even though the temperatures are polar, Winter is really the best time of year for city night and landscape shooting.  Plus, around here at least, the sunrises and sunsets can be pretty spectacular because of the unique cloud cover and position of the sun.

This past weekend, we headed into Aschaffenburg, one of the larger cities on the Main River, about 45 minutes upriver from Frankfurt.  Aschaffenburg used to belong to the Prince Bishops of Mainz and then was passed to the Kingdom of Bavaria.  Consequently, it has several rather impressive constructions, the most famous being the Schloss Johannisburg.  We ride by the Schloss pretty regularly on bike rides and even after a year, I still can't get over the size.  I've taken many pictures of it, usually with my phone in passing, but never intentionally came to the city to focus on it as a subject.  This weekend it was my second priority so I plan on going back to it again soon.  On our way to the river,  it became clear from the glimpses of the sky through the buildings that we were missing a particularly brilliant light show.   By the time we got down to the river sunset was just ending.  We didn't have enough time to set up before it was over, so I whipped out my X-E2 and snapped the shot below quickly from the bike path.  One of the things I love about this camera is that I can get a shot in low light like this handheld.  I took this using the Vibrant film simulation, but other than adding the watermark I didn't edit it any further.  One of the great things about Fujifilm's X-Series is that they are WiFi connectable.  So, I was able to post this directly to Instagram shortly after taking it.  One of my goals over the next couple of years is to stop using my phone as a primary camera.  Having a WiFi capable camera makes that possible.

Fujifilm X-E2 ISO 1600 18mm f/6.5 1/30

After taking that, we headed down to the bridge over the Main and set the tripod up.  The bridge is the main route over the river from the western bank and sees a lot of traffic.  So, there's quite a bit of shake.  I switched over to the Canon because I wanted to use its wide-angle lens.  I enabled mirror lock-up, disabled image stabilization, and used a remote shutter.  But, with the bridge shake, there was no way to get a perfectly sharp image.  I'm not a pixel peeper, but in editing I noticed there was some blur in the details.  Oh well, there's nothing that can be done about a shaky bridge!

Canon 600D ISO 100 16mm f/9 6.0secs

I didn't do too much with this in post except crop it down a little and remove a buoy in the river that I found distracting.  The image here is showing somewhat brighter and more saturated than it does elsewhere, which may just be a Blogger glitch.  While I like the view and the Schloss, I'm not really "into" this particular shot.  In hindsight, I wish I had made it there while the sunset was doing its thing because I think it would have highlighted the building a bit better than the lights and would have added more interest in the sky and water.  So, this is on the list of things to try again in the future.

Where was I which made me miss the sunset?  There's a rather large park in the center of the city that was part of the royal grounds back when the King of Bavaria had his summer residence in Aschaffenburg.  While the king and kingdom are no more, the palace and park remain and it's full of interesting little sights.  One of those are ruins of a medieval church that are on an island in the middle of a small lake.  The ruins were my primary location and I was hoping to get them while the lowlight of the sun cut through the park a bit.  We spent a lot of time walking around the ruins trying to find a good angle.  But, while it's an interesting spot, it wasn't so interesting to photograph.  The site is closed off from the public with a barred gate and windows that take away from the visual impact of the ruins on one side.  It is one of those things that the eye overlooks, but the lens cannot.  On the other side there's some debris and warning tape that makes the whole spot look like an unsightly construction area.  So, that left me with the back end of the apse, and on the side of the lake furthest from the ruins.  It took some time for me to find a spot that didn't have fencing, trash cans, walking paths, or benches in the shot, but I finally found a little corner (nearly in a bush) that gave a view of the ruins without showing all the uninteresting and somewhat ugly "city stuff."  I originally planned to use the X-E2 when I was thinking about the ruins, but when I found this spot I immediately switched over to the Canon so I could use the 10-22mm wide angle lens.  There was a little brook that fed into the lake with an attractive angle and I wanted to get that in the frame more than I wanted the ruins.

Canon 600D ISO 100 10mm f/9 1.6s, edited with Photoshop

Unlike the other two, I spent a lot of time with this one in post.  With the low light, I wanted to take a long exposure in order to capture the silky movement of the water.  Of course, doing that meant the little bit of sky peeping through the trees was going to get blown out.  I haven't started using ND filters yet, though I have recently picked up a few to begin experimenting with soon.  However, because the horizon here wasn't clear cut, I probably wouldn't have used a graduated ND filter anyway.  So, I decided to take multiple exposures, one long to get the water and the fading light on the ruins in the background, and another much faster to get the sky.  I didn't want a full HDR look for the final result, so I blended the two with a much slower process using multiple layers.  While it clearly has undergone some processing to get the final result, I wasn't going for a completely natural look to begin with.  It was a place that imparted a feeling of mystery.  I wanted to sift through all the junk of a modern city park and create a photograph that might bring that mysterious vibe back to the surface.

So, those were the three shots from the weekend.  Thanks to some early birthday presents, I've replaced my worn out Manfrotto tripod with a slick and funky Three Legged Thing "Brian" and the awkward Lowepro Slingshot with a Hama Daytour 230.  I'm really looking forward to trying them out in the coming weekends.  This weekend, however, we have friends in to town, so I'll be foregoing landscape shooting in favor of just the X-E2 with a new lens (that just came to the door about 5 minutes ago).  More on that next week!

Paris in December

When I sat down last week to write this post it was the morning after the Charlie Hebdo attacks.  I had "write about Paris" at the top of Thursday's to-do list since Monday.  But, in the wake of the tragedy, I found myself staring at a blinking cursor for over an hour, completely incapable of finding anything to say.  Writing about photographing Paris seemed inappropriate or insensitive, I'm not sure.  I closed out Blogger and decided to come back later.  So, here I am back the following week still not 100% sure about this post, and troubled in my spirit.

There are three cities that I adore, love so much they almost seem a part of the family in some way.  I'm not from them, and I haven't lived in them.  But, when we visit them, being there always brings us joy, a joy you can't help but mention, one that causes a smile to be plastered rather stupidly on one's face for the extent of the visit.  Most cities have the opposite effect.  In fact, I would happily exchange a weekend in a city for one in the mountains 9 out of 10 times.  But, New York City, Ghent, and Paris are special and will draw us back again and again.  Paris, well, it stands above the other two.  It may be cliche to say Paris is my favorite city, but honestly I don't care.  It's magic.  If you go, you'll get it.  If you don't get it, then you didn't do it right.  There's more to it than its architecture, history, shopping (if you're into that), food, and cultural spots.  It's all that and more.  There's a soul, a feeling of depth, memory, and insight coming from its very stones.  I'm not sure if I will ever be able to put my finger on it, so the only solution is to keep going back and get to know the place a little better each time.

Our most recent trip to Paris was the last week of December.  We popped over on the train, rented a loft apartment for four days, and spent the majority of the trip walking The Dog's feet off all over the city from Trocadero to Sorbonne from the 2nd Arrondissement to Chaillot and back (because he refused to ride the Metro).  It was clear and cold for the entire trip, so we bundled up in long underwear, fleeces, parkas, hats, and mittens and strode the streets undeterred though bulkier than preferred.  It was a trip designed just for a little exploring with The Dog, cafe loitering, and some photography thrown in.  It has been a long time since we went just the two of us, so finally I felt comfortable to tote along the tripod and try my hand at those big wide night shots I'd yet to capture on previous trips.  Granted, it was mighty cold and uncomfortable when the sun wasn't around, but I'd gladly go through it again to have the privilege of capturing more of this glorious city in the low light.

I love experimenting with night photography, arriving well before sunrise or sunset to get set up and watch the light change across the landscape.  Depending on where, sometimes it's an opportunity to chat with another photographer.  In Paris, being among many in one spot is a given.  The downside is that it takes a little more planning than just walking around taking photos of whatever catches the eye.  The good "blue hour" light is only around for a short while, so I had to choose one location each evening that would be my priority.  It's a hard decision in the most photogenic city in the world.

For this trip I carried the Canon 600D fitted with the EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM and the Fujifilm X-E2.  I used my Lowepro Slingshot to carry my tripod through the day since going back to the apartment three times a day wasn't convenient (without using the Metro) nor easy (the apartment was a 6th floor walkup accessed by one of the most ridiculous staircases I have ever encountered outside a castle tower).  More on how this kit worked out at the end of the post.

I'm not a morning person, and I'm even less inclined to get up when it's 20F and I have to climb down a bazillion stairs.  Plus, this was vacation and vacation means relaxing.  But, this is Paris and sleeping instead of shooting before sunrise must be some kind of sin.  We were staying pretty close to Les Invalides so the first early morning session was there.  We walked all around the massive complex, before choosing to shoot the rear of building where Napoleon's tomb is housed.

Canon 600D 10mm f/13 .6s

Because we had The Dog with us we couldn't get into the inner courtyard, which was less than ideal.  However, this position did result in Paris' most famous landmark making a cameo.  While the focal point is certainly Napoleon's tomb, the lines of the stone walls tend to lead the eye over to the Eiffel Tower.  While it wasn't what I was originally going for, it's an interesting result I suppose.  Travel photography is teaching me to work with the situation I'm in and to make the best of it.  Sometimes I can't get where I really want to be, or I can only to discover there's a giant tarp over the building, or it's just too darn crowded.  I'm learning to compromise, experiment, and to always have a Plan B.

Another morning we walked over to Trocadero to shoot the Eiffel Tower (because you have to).  Everyone, their mothers, and pet monkeys were up on the Esplande du Trocadero waiting for the sunrise, so we opted for down below near the fountain (which was off for the winter).  I liked the angle from that level better anyway because it's in front of all the scaffolding currently draped all over the area.  There was only one other photographer down there and so we had a lovely private spot to watch the changing colors of the morning dance behind the Eiffel Tower.  I didn't want just a silhouette of the tower so the final edit is a blend of multiple exposures, hence the repeated jet streams- another result I wasn't planning on but kinda like.  Oh, and that other photographer was in the dead center of the shot, but he was wearing all black and didn't move a muscle the whole time, bless him.  I even have a hard time finding him.

Canon 600D 12mm f/10 1/50

After the sun came up each day, I stowed the Canon in the bag and switched exclusively to the X-E2.  I found myself shooting in black and white almost the entire time.  Paris lends itself so well to monochrome that it felt like the natural choice, especially with the harsh light of clear December days.

Fujifilm X-E2 24mm f/7.1 1/1000

Pont Alexandre III is one of my favorite things to gawk at in Paris.  I'm pretty sure I could spend a good portion of a day just taking its picture.  No matter how many times I walk over it, take a boat under it, or glimpse it from afar I think, "Man, that's a beautiful bridge."  It's an extravagant piece of architecture and I absolutely adore the thing.
 

Fujifilm X-E2 32mm f/9 1/400

This shot is, of course, a pretty famous view.  You'll see it on countless postcards and posters.  Despite it not being "unique," it's a classic example of good composition and I had to take it, kinda like every art student has to do a still life with some fruit at some point.  I did very little editing on this as the contrast and details were captured nicely in JPEG, JPEG, with the Fuji.  I only felt the desire to add a bit of a vignette and slap the watermark on.  Have I mentioned how much I love my X-E2?

Fujifilm X-E2 55mm f/5.6 1/500

I took this walking back from taking the Eiffel Tower shot.  When the forecast called for morning fog, I had hoped for a thick, luxurious blanket over the city.  It didn't happen, but a little clung to the trees in the park below the tower.  There was something about the scene of the park in the early morning with its maintenance tractors, mud, and garbage collectors that caught my attention.  It's a side of one the most popular tourists destinations most people don't get to see.  In a few minutes buses would unload their cargo and the area would be covered in selfie taking tourists, but for this time it was just another park on a cold winter morning.

Fujifilm X-E2 10mm f/2.8 1/125

One of the terrible things about shooting anywhere in the winter is that it's crazy cold in the morning, but one of the great things about shooting in Paris in the winter is that a warm cafe and a Chocolat Chaud are never far away.  We spent a lot of time cafe hopping that week trying to get feeling back in our fingers. 

When the sun started to head down again, we headed to the spot chosen for "Blue Hour."  The first one was Notre Dame des Paris, from below on the banks of Seine.  I had taken pictures of the famous cathedral down here before, but I've always hankered to get an evening shot when the lights were on.  

Canon 600D 10mm f/13 10s

We had quite a bit of time here while I watched the light, and I'd like take the opportunity to formally apologize to my husband and The Dog for having them sit in the wind tunnel so long.  But, I really did appreciate their company as I think it kept those creepy drunk guys at bay.  Despite the cold, I'd say this is one of the more enjoyable sessions we had.  Except for those drunk guys and one other photographer who came and went quickly, we had the place to ourselves.  I love walking along the Seine and this scene captures the mood of that experience.  Paris at night is truly something special.

Canon 600D 12mm f/13 10s

On the way back to our apartment for the night we paused at Les Deux Magots.  I do love a good Parisian cafe, and this one is a venerable establishment.  I can just imagine Monsieur Hemingway in there arguing with some unlucky soul about bullfighting technique or something.  Oh, I should mention that while our apartment's access was torture for an asthmatic, it did have quite the rewarding view at sunrise...

Fujifilm X-E2 30mm f/13 1/30

And sunset.

Fujifilm X-E2 25mm f/6.5 1/100, vibrant film simulation

My other priority "blue hour" spot was the Louvre courtyard.  It's another well know location, and a particular favorite for night photography.  There was a massive tourist presence and quite a few of us with tripods trying to get the shot without getting in each other's.  The after hours crowd in this part of Paris was pretty insane because of the nearby Christmas market on the Champs-Elysees.  It was here that I was particularly thankful to have The Dog with us as he prevented a very oblivious individual from crashing into me and my tripod.  The kid may have wet himself in fear, but I have found a new appreciation for our mean old dog.  Setting up at the Louvre was also compounded by the Museum's stupid, in my opinion, idea to set up a hideous red trailer in the courtyard.  Apparently it's going to be yet another Museum store, but I don't get the point and its location is absolutely inappropriate.  Say goodbye to any panoramic shots or, for that matter, views from the opposite side of the courtyard.  Not really a fan of the red squiggle in the pyramid either, but that's just me.  It's a beautiful location and I'm thankful to have had the opportunity to capture it, despite the difficulties.

Of course, I took quite a bit more shots on the trip and the rest of them are up on my Flickr and I've been posting a few to Instagram and Twenty20 as well.

Now for some final thoughts.  For the most part the kit worked out pretty well.  Of course, carrying everything around for several days wasn't so great.  Normally, I would leave the tripod back at the apartment and wouldn't have carried the second body, but this was a unique situation.  What it taught me was that the Slingshot bag does not work for all day carry.  The tripod positioning is awkward and tends to bash the head into walls or tourists (who may or may not deserve it).  And, the wrap around fit it crazy hard on the back.  The experience has me set on getting a regular backpack with a vertical tripod mount for days when I'm carrying a lot with me for a long period of time.  I don't do that very often, but if it comes up again, I never want to use the Slingshot.  Another weak spot in the kit is my tripod.  Its an inexpensive model, not particularly sturdy, and I knew that when I bought it.  But, after several years it's starting to get sticky and uncooperative.  In the cold, the poor thing freezes up really tight and getting it to the proper position is a battle.  I think I'll be retiring it soon.  As for cameras, carrying two around was a bit overkill, but I haven't added any new Fujinon lens yet, so that's the way it's gotta be for a while.  Their stuff requires some fancy budgeting and I have a lot of things vying for top position on my wish list.  For the time being I'll continue to use my Canon with the wide-angle lens until I can add a superior (and smaller) Fujinon.  The more I use the X-E2 the more I desire to work exclusively with their X cameras and lenses.

Fujifilm X-E2 21mm f/5.6 1/500

Taking a camera around Paris is an overwhelming, exciting, and inspiring experience.  It's one of the first places we went after we moved to Europe in 2011, and it certainly can be credited with igniting a love for photography in me.  What better place in the world to pick up a camera?  We try to get back to this beautiful city at least once a year.  I have to admit it was jarring to return home and read about the terrible events of last week taking place not far from some of the areas we were exploring.  As I said, Paris almost feels like a family member, a really artsy, eccentric, gorgeous family member.  The events of the attacks and aftermath break my heart and anger me.  It's the most beautiful city in the world and this escalation of violence on its streets is an insult.  But, we'll go back.  We'll go back soon.  I have a lot more I'd like to photograph there.  There are places we haven't been yet and spots I haven't been able to capture quite right.  I hope to be on its streets again soon with all those other photography lovers, weaving through the crowds of tourists, and snapping away.  The only way I feel we can show our support and solidarity is to not let these barbaric acts keep us away from the City of Light.

The Spirit of Christmas

Someone back home in the States said to me recently that the Germans probably have a better understanding of the meaning of Christmas and the holiday season than Americans.  I don't know about that.  I can't think of one person back home who lauds the commercialism that the season now seems to represent.  Despite what the TV, store displays, and radio would suggest, I think that most people still value traditions, time spent with family or friends, and the time of reflection of the season, not to mention the food.  It seems that every year the shopping season gets longer, the music gets worse, and the decorations more frivolous and tacky.  We all complain about it.  And, while so far the wretched inflatable decorations haven't really caught on over here, I think Germany also struggles with a corruption of the season. I've heard repeatedly from several sources in solemn tones that when it comes to the insanity of the holidays, Germany is getting out of control just like everyone else.  Seriously, with barely an observance of Halloween and certainly no Thanksgiving, the shopping season started, oh, somewhere around October 1st.  While the leaves were still mostly green, loaves of stollen and bottles of Glühwein started appearing on shelves.  While we've been spared the media inundation since we don't watch local TV or listen to radio, a trip to the grocery store last night was the only proof I needed that the Germans are just as wacky three days before Christmas as Americans.

But, there is one thing I can honestly say makes the season better in Germany.  I give to you the humble Christmas Market, known in these parts as Weihnachtsmarkt or Christkindlmarkt.  Christmas Markets started in the German speaking world sometime in the late Middle Ages.  The one downriver in Frankfurt has been going on since at least 1393.  They coincide with the four weekends of Advent.  Traditional ones end the weekend before Christmas, but nowadays some of the larger ones stay open until Christmas Eve. They've since become regular features around the Western world.  There's one on the Champs-Élysées, you can visit one in Leeds, and Akron even used have a respectable offering about 10 years ago (it has, alas, become a sad shadow of its former self.  Oh, Akron...sigh).  But, the best ones are still to be found where it all began- Germany.

Market square of Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Fujifilm X-E2 18mm f/9 1/125

This season we decided we were going to take advantage of this most wondrous cultural offering and visit as many as possible.  Somewhere between steaming cups of Glühwein, nibbling on a Schneeball, and strolling through endless stalls of goods we discovered that we started feeling, well, Christmassy.  I have this vision of what Christmas is supposed to be like, it's some sort of mashup of Dickens, pre-Christian yule, and It's a Wonderful Life.  I imagine big pots of hot drink, lots of sparkly candles, carolers, simple or elaborate food items being showcased on festive tables, and a general feeling of goodwill amongst strangers.  In short, I think Christmas is supposed to be fun, to do exactly what the old yule celebrations did- scare away the dark, cold, and general unease of winter.  Here, for the first time in I don't know how long, it felt exactly this way.  We attended 6, and maybe we'll squeeze in one more this evening.  We went to tiny ones and we went to huge ones.  We had good weather and we had truly wretched weather.  But, at every single one we had fun and there was none of that oppressive and overwhelming stressed out commercial feeling at any.  Never once did I hear a single pop Christmas song.  There wasn't an inflatable Santa on a Harley in sight either.  So, without further ado, here are some shots from the markets.

Fujifilm X-E2 18mm f/10 1/160, edit Photoshop

 This spot is one of the quintessential shots of Rothenburg ob der Tauber.  Rothenburg o.d.T is probably one of the most well known stops along the Romantic Road, a tourist route from Würzburg to Füssen.  What it is known for are the Christmas shops, museum, and the fact the old town is trapped, architecturally speaking, in the Middle Ages.  It's a beautiful place to explore, but getting a wide shot without brightly clothed and bumbling tourists is nigh impossible.  I had hoped to stick around late so the crowds would thin out, but the weather was atrocious so we high tailed it home early.

Fujifilm X-E2 42mm f/4 1/180

Paper stars are a traditional decoration at Christmas.  They are typically hung in windows, and as you can see throw off a rich and festive glow.  I found myself drawn to the stalls that sold them, and finally after much jostling in Rothenburg o.d.T I found this one that was positively infested with the beautiful things.   Of course, while trying to get the shot, about a half dozen other tourists decided I must be onto something and immediately stepped in front.  Oh, the trials of the 5'3" photographer...

Fujifilm X-E2 55mm f/5 1/250

 Würzburg is a regular haunt for us, just being about an hour down the Autobahn.  It's the northern terminus of the Romantic Road and known especially for its Baroque architecture.  I was absolutely enamored with the cream yellow facade of the Haus zum Falken in all its lavish Rococo glory.  I found the bright red of the Marienkapelle a nice contrast to its more ornate neighbor.

Fujifilm X-E2 39mm f/4 1/125, Fuji Vibrant Film Simulation

For unique shopping, the winner this year was the Ronneburg Castle Historic Market.  The parking for this one was utterly atrocious and we found ourselves climbing a rather substantial hill for about an hour before we finally entered the gates of this market.  However, it was totally worth it, and an excellent test of my new Holdfast Gear Moneymaker strap system (more on that some other time).  Here are some olive wood items for sale outside of the castle.  The grain of the wood makes for some striking patterns on the objects, so I decided to utilize the Vibrant film simulation so they'd pop just a little more.  We ended up walking away with a wonderful snack bowl and polished horn spoons from this stand.  

Fujifilm X-E2 33mm f/4.5 1/500

 The weekend of the Ronneburg market was rather brisk, which caused some excellent steam action off our clay Glühwein mugs.  It was also a great opportunity to showcase the bright clarity of the Fujinon 18-55mm lens.  

Fujifilm X-E2 41mm f/6.4 1/250

There was something about this scene of smoke wafting around the straw strewn grounds of Ronneburg Castle, the laughter, the smell of meats roasting on open fires, and the folks strolling about in tunics with swords hanging from their waists that had me saying, "This is what I always imagined Christmas to be like."  Weird, I know.  Please bear in mind I spent a good portion of my younger years studying medieval customs and architecture.  Anyway, this isn't the best shot in the world, but it captures a moment.  That's what photography is for, right?

Canon 600D 100mm f/5 1/80

I've been carry a two camera kit to the markets, the Fujifilm X-E2 for mostly wide shots and the Canon 600D with the 55-250mm for close-ups.  Most of the action the Canon saw was at Ronneburg because of the wonderfully photogenic crowd that only a Medieval Fair can attract.  This lens is no where near fast (a constant struggle at cycling races), but it works well enough for the time being when I'm trying to zero in on one person or thing and crowds or my limited height won't let me get any closer.

Canon 600D 154mm f/5.6 1/80

 These two, St. Nicholas and the Christkind (a really perplexing character who is called the Christ Child, but most definitely isn't, being an adult female and all.  I hope to get her figured out by next Christmas), were a bear to photograph.  St. Nick is, of course, a favorite with the children and his partner was handing out candies to every child in the joint.  So, they were surrounded by quite the crowd of kids hell bent on nabbing a chocolate and parents hell bent on getting a photo of their children with the pair.  This was the best I could pull off, being smaller than the average German child or parent.  Plus, good St. Nick seemed overwhelmed with the whole situation and insisted on hiding behind his counterpart for most of the time.  I didn't blame him.

Canon 600D 135mm f/5 1/80

I spotted him just as we were leaving Ronneburg for the day.  Thankfully, he didn't make for much of a moving target for my sluggish long lens.  It was only after I was looking at it in post that I noticed the wonderfully carved head on the guitar. 

Canon 600D 100mm f/5 1/150

 Here is an example of handmade Christmas decorations that you will find all over the Markets.  This one happened to be on one of the trees at the market in Würzburg.  Something about the delicate simplicity of the straw creations paired with fruit on the tree hinted at an image of Christmases long past.

Fujifilm X-E2 23mm f/5.6 1/80, Vibrant film simulation

 The light on the day we went to Michelstadt was a bit gloomy, so I shot mostly with the Vibrant film simulation.  Michelstadt is known for its timber frame buildings and the whimsical Rathaus (Town Hall) is its most famous structure.  I would have loved to have had some snow on this day, for this town is just saturated in old-timey Christmas goodness already.

Fujifilm X-E2 55mm f/4 1/180

These are the famous Franconian Schneebälle pastries.  They're basically slices of dough that are wadded up and fried in a special contraption and then covered in something.  Traditionally, they are covered in powdered sugar (my favorite), but there are many variations of the ancient treat (supposedly the recipe has been around for 300 years).  Now you can get them filled with cream or soaked in rum and covered in chocolate.  The sugar coma possibilities are endless.

  

Fujifilm X-E2 18mm f/4 1/250, Vibrant film simulation

 Every market has a giant Christmas Pyramid.  The pyramids are traditionally from the Erzgebirge Mountains, but now are popular all over Germany.  Traditionally, they featured nativity scenes or angels, but now some feature more secular scenes of village or woodland life.  This is a more modern rendition featuring one of these secular scenes.  I took this snapshot for folks back home to have an example of some typical market scenes, without thought to composition.  The light was terrible all day and the sun was heading down at this point, but thanks to my X-E2's amazing ability at high ISO levels (1000), I was able to get it handheld.  

Fujifilm X-E2 55mm f/4 1/70

 Another time I was thankful for my X-E2's lowlight capabilities (ISO 1250).  Gosh, mirrorless is a wonderful thing! We went to this market with some friends so I didn't want to carry the full set up that day and just worked with the X-E2.  It was a great opportunity to test its wide range of capabilities with just the kit lens.  

Fujifilm ISO 1250 26mm f/11 1/70

I snapped this as we were leaving Michelstadt in the evening and the sun was getting low on the horizon.  Michelstadt ended up being our favorite market of 2014, maybe it was because we shared the time with friends or it was our first one of the year, but this one had just the right ambiance.

I find myself slightly saddened by the thought that the Christmas market season has come to a close and for the first time a feeling that there is a little magic to the season.  It's not the handmade goods, or the lights, or the food, or the spiced wine (ok, maybe it is the spiced wine).  I think that it mostly has to do with these wonderful markets fostering a feeling of well being amongst the vendors and attendees.  People go, and not just tourists, to have basic seasonal fun.  At the markets you can sing along with the carolers and fight the cold with a mug of mulled goodness just like the yule celebrations of yore, buy wonderful little homemade Christmas wreaths like those in a Dickens tale, and happily wish everyone you pass a "Frohe Weihnachte!" like one would in a German speaking Bedford Falls.  That just warms the cockles of my heart.  I hear there's still one market operating today down the road.  If you need me this evening I'll be standing around a barrel laughing with some strangers, sipping Glühwein, snapping some pictures, and feeling mighty pleased with the whole situation.  Who knows, maybe it'll even give The Dog a feeling of goodwill toward men.  Christmas miracles do happen...

More photos can be viewed on Flickr and will be popping up on Instagram