Revving Up for The Ronde: A Brief Stop in Oudenaarde

It's about 25 days until one of the biggest races on the Spring calendar, the Ronde van Vlaanderen, the Tour of Flanders.  Of course, we have a few races going on between now and then; Paris-Nice, Tirreno Adriatico, and the Volta Ciclista a Catalunya are just a few of the major contests in March.  But, in Oudenaarde, Belgium all thoughts are fixed on the Ronde.  The promo flags are up on lamp posts around the town center and the roads are positively cluttered with weekend warriors testing their mettle on cobbles and climbs.  

The region's fondness for Tom Boonen is highlighted
throughout the museum.

Last Sunday, my husband and I made the three hour drive up to this cycling Mecca to get a flavor for the scene.  There wasn't time for a ride, with half the day spent getting there and back, but we had plenty to do to make up for it.  Oudenaarde is also home to the Centrum Ronde van Vlaanderen, the museum dedicated to this epic cobbled classic. Curated by the great Freddy Maertens, it is must for any fan of Belgian cycling and this particular race.  

Your visit, which will cost 8€ per person, begins with a 13 minute film showing footage from Rondes of the past, highlighting the cobbled sections, the most successful riders (especially if they're Belgian), and some of the carnage.  Afterwards, the doors open into the exhibit space which provides everything you could possibly want to know about the history of this race and Belgian cycling.  Alas, most of the information is only in Dutch, but you will find a bit here and there translated to French and a little in English.  Upon admission you will receive a brief English synopsis of the museum if you desire.  It doesn't really matter, because most items are self-explanatory.  There are several opportunities for children and adults to play games and "test ride" some cobbles.  You can test your knowledge of the Ronde with a 84 question quiz.  I'm afraid my performance was abysmal.  The major climbs are broken down into in-depth descriptions, the history of nutrition in professional cycling is explained, and artifacts from riders, teams, and the media are everywhere.  A fair amount of money went into this museum and it shows.  You can finish your visit with a picture on the podium with Tom Boonen, if desired.  All in all, I thought the museum was excellent.  I would have liked a little more English in some places, but it is a museum in Flanders, after all.  The only thing I found to be a bit odd was the explanation of why men make better bike racers than women.  In my opinion comparing the physical performance of men vs. women has a taste of backward ignorance, but that could just be my inner feminist coming out... 

Anyway, exiting the museum takes you right into the gift shop.  It took all my willpower not to blow hundreds on the unique clothing and gifts for sale.  Cycling beer, jewelry, books, games, water bottles, champagne, t-shirts, lycra jerseys, wool jerseys, and stacks of caps are just a handful of things you can pick up.  My personal favorite were the cobblestone candles.  You do not have to visit the museum to visit the shop, so if you're a fan of cycling and you happen to be near Oudenaarde, I highly recommend taking the time to swing through.  I'm certain there's something for everyone in there.

Freddy Maertens (right) explains the significance of an old
crescent wrench he's brought with him to the bar.

After depositing your packages, you can complete your visit by stopping at the attached Brasserie for a beverage or simple meal.  The Brasserie is full of cycling memorabilia from floor to ceiling.  Photos not just of the Ronde but also Le Tour cover the walls.  Bicycles hang from the ceiling and jerseys and bottles decorate the bar.  The menu is simple, but if you happen to visit this time of year I recommend the "Queens Snack," a chicken dish that satisfies on a blustery day whether you've been out for a ride or not.  The house beer is also worth a try.  Beware though, the Brassarie, especially on the weekend will be crowded, mostly with cyclists who have been rolling around this famous region.  If you're lucky, though, you may come across the museum's curator, hanging out at the bar, chatting with patrons, or explaining the history behind some artifact in his hand.  On Sunday it was a wrench so and so used during Paris-Roubaix.   

After we completed our visit of the Centrum Ronde van Vlaanderen, we decided to do a crash tour of the highlights of the Ronde itself.  Not far out of Oudenaarde lie the famous cobbled climbs that have determined the results of this monument for decades- the Paterberg, Koppenberg, Oude Kwaremont, and others are all within about a 15min drive of the town center. While touring by car isn't the preferred method, of course, it's still the fastest way to visit these brutal rocks when you're on a time crunch.  Keep in mind though, these spots attract cyclists like moths to flame, so drive careful.  On Sunday, the Koppenberg seemed to be on a pilgrimage path and was jam packed with pedestrians.  We never did find out what the attraction was.  While that stopped us from driving up, it didn't stop some cyclists from tackling the grade.  All of them made it up without a problem.  I desperately wanted to cheer.

As we returned down to the car, thinking of all the legends that struggled up this nondescript farm road, I looked down and noticed every mud filled crack between the stones bore the impression of bicycle tires.  That's something.

The hallowed stones of the Koppenberg

I don't know about you, but I can't wait for Easter Sunday.