Lovin' Leuven

Ok, I realize I talk about Belgium a lot.  I understand that I might have a small addiction to the place.  However, since the move to Germany, I don't think we'll be getting there much anymore.  When we realized that, we decided to ween ourselves off the land of strong beer and golden frites instead of going cold turkey.  So, one more visit was in order last weekend.  There was one place we wanted to visit one more time and another we hadn't made it to yet.

The revisit, of course, had to be L'Ancien Hopital in Saint-Hubert.  As they say, the third time's the charm.  We were pretty certain that it was our favorite restaurant ever, but a third visit would seal the deal.  We were right, not that there were any doubts.  This time we also booked a room, so it's not only the best restaurant ever, but it's also a lovely place to spend the weekend.  My final words on the subject:  If you are in Belgium (I'm talking to you, cycling fans) you need to make a special trip down to Saint-Hubert for a meal.  You will not be disappointed.  I'm certain of it.  Plus, it'll give you the opportunity to ride the lesser known roads of Wallonia.

Ok, now on to Leuven.  When people (I mean non-cycling fans now) visit Belgium, if they do at all, the big draws are Brussels and Bruges.  As a result, there are a lot of other equally awesome (if not better) cities that stay under the radar.  You get all the same sorts of things that draw people to the Big B's, but none of the tour buses.  Leuven is one of those cities.

Leuven is a university city.  It's about 25km east of Brussels in Flanders, so a piece a cake to visit on a day trip or an overnight stop if time in Belgium is brief.  While it's not like the preserved medieval cities of Bruges and Gent, it has a lot to offer the visitor.

First of all, it is home to InBev, the largest brewer in the world.  Stella Artois is brewed in the city and opens its doors to groups of visitors on the weekends.  If you're traveling with a large group, this might be worth a look.  English tours are provided.  If you're not interested in a tour or can't tag along with a group, you can visit their on site shop to pick up a souvenir.  Now, for those who prefer craft beer over the big factory brews, Leuven is also home to the smaller Huisbrouwerij Domus which makes 3 crafts at their location in the center as well as a pub.  Still not impressed with the brewing options?

The last weekend of April is Leuven's Beer Weekend (April 26-27 in 2014). It is the largest Belgian beer festival in the world!  During the weekend at least 100 brewers will be in the city offering their wares, there will be special tours at Domus and Stella, and special beer themed tours of the city.  We were told the majority of the participants are small craft breweries so it's an opportunity to try beers you won't find outside of this part Belgium.  As a bonus, this is the same weekend as Liège-Bastogne-Liège, so if you're in the area for the Ardennes Classics anyway...

Ok, enough about the beer.

Leuven being a University city, the oldest Catholic University in the world actually, is vibrant and eclectic.  You won't find the same old same old in Leuven.  The pedestrian shopping district is one of the largest I've visited and is dominated by unique boutiques and shops you won't find in every other city.  If you're interested in picking up something besides the usual tourist trap junk this would be a place to look.  There are plenty of churches and chapels to explore if you're an architecture enthusiast.  And there's a well reviewed art museum, M, if you're looking for an afternoon to appreciate Flemish masters or contemporary art.

And dinner?  You won't have trouble finding a place to cater to your cravings.  You can find traditional Flemish restaurants or something with a more creative bent.  Of course, if you're in the mood for Italian or Mexican or just about anything else, they have that too.  There are some truly fine dining options available.  You will definitely eat well.  But, make sure you book ahead.

Of course, the city has the same charm of the other Belgian cities with a massive (currently being restored) cathedral, flamboyant Town Hall, and traditional Flemish architecture.  It's a pleasure to stroll through the city squares, especially after hours when the shopping crowds clear out and the buildings are lit.

So, if you have time and want to see a corner of Belgium that's often overlooked, give Leuven a shot.  You may been pleasantly surprised!

Real Ale, Bathroom Graffiti, Buried Alleys, & Fajitas

We were standing at the customs desk trying to look as confident as possible while this portly and rather grumpy Belgian police officer decided our fate.  Would we be hearing the wonderful sound of a click and slam of the stamp that would let us return to our house or the fateful words "Please come with me" while being lead into some sterile security office to begin deportation proceedings?  He read over our papers, very slowly.  He looked at the passports again.  He looked at us.  Again.  We held our breath.  How did this happen?

Rewind a few days back.

Edinburgh was named Travel Destination of the Year at the Travel Awards last year and for good reason.  It's not a massive city.  With a centrally located train station, walkable and bikeable streets, unique attractions, lots of food and drink options, and citizens that may be some of the nicest people in Europe you really couldn't go wrong.

We spent last weekend in Edinburgh exploring nooks and crannies, most of which were food and beverage related.  So, you want to know what there is in Edinburgh that is worth risking deportation for?  Well, here you go.

Pubs.  Good pubs are the heart and soul of this city and there are plenty to choose from.  We had the pleasure of being pointed in the right direction by some locals so we were thankfully introduced to a couple of gems.  First off is The Wally Dug on Northumberland Street.  It's the perfect example for why you have to look below street level in Britain.  There are some great finds under the stairs.  The Wally Dug is one of them.  Most of the ales on tap are Belhaven, and there are some excellent selections from their stock.  They also have some craft cask ales available, which are certainly worth a taste.  Cask ales (as opposed to those served from kegs) are something special and not a brew you're going to find in very many places outside of the United Kingdom.  Unfiltered, unpasteurized, and served without additional nitrogen or carbon dioxide pressure, they're not going to taste quite like anything else.  Sometimes they come out a little warmer than you'd expect, and that's something to get used to.  But, with all the variety of ales to be had you're bound to find one or six that you enjoy.  I do love my Belgian brews, but, wow, it was nice to have a stout again!

If you happen to be in Old Town, then another great option (and this one is my favorite) is the Jolly Judge tucked in, up and around James Court, one of the famous closes or alleyways.  It's another one of those places under the stairs, with a warm fire and an excellent selection of cask ales, ciders, and whiskies.  The atmosphere is spot on.  It was awfully tempting to spend the day there.  That's just two places.  There were several others that were just as lovely.  Milnes Bar, one of the Taylor Walker pubs, comes to mind as well.  Wherever you end up grabbing a pint, I'm pretty certain you'll discover one commonality (besides the beautiful ales).  The folks that tend bar in Edinburgh really are a wonderful lot.  They're happy to have you in their establishment, they'll serve you with a smile, and will go out of their way to make recommendations if you need one.  Pubs in Edinburgh are the way pubs are supposed to be.

Ok, if you're not into ales or whiskies then a coffee shop may be a better choice.  The Elephant House is probably one of the most famous coffee shops in the world.  To be honest, I hadn't heard of it.  But, Harry Potter fans probably have.  Apparently, this is the spot where J.K. Rowling penned a good portion of her novels.  While the coffee is pretty good, the pastries look irresistible, and the atmosphere is unique, the bathrooms are the real draw.  No, seriously.  Normally, when I step into a restroom and see the walls have been covered (and I mean COVERED) in graffiti I feel like I'll need to wash my hands twice.  At least.  But, after glancing around I realized that it wasn't vulgarities and phone numbers scrawled on the walls, but beautiful and sweet messages of thanks from all over the world for lives enriched by literature.  It's worth a peek.

Now, Edinburgh has lots to see and do.  Capital cities are like that.  There are all sorts of museums.  Museums on whisky, museums on weaving, museums on torture.  Of course, there's also the giant castle sitting on top of an extinct volcano smack dab in the middle of everything.  I'm sure they're all fascinating, but you'd need more than a weekend to see every attraction.  One thing we did get in, which I highly recommend, is definitely one of the most unique spots I've ever visited.

The Real Mary King's Close tour takes visitors underneath modern day Old Town (yeah, I know that sounds confusing).  This tour isn't your typical history tour.  You actually go underneath the city into the old house foundations and actual streets that were built over during the construction of the Royal Exchange.  It's a bit complicated to explain, but basically when they decided to build the Exchange they determined it would save time, money, and materials just to level off the buildings that were already there and use their foundations as the foundations for the Exchange.  Most of these underground spaces were filled in or can't be accessed, but there is a section that was reopened to the public in 2003 that provides a space to explain 15th and 16th Century life in Edinburgh.  While the tour has its cheesy moments, ok, it has a lot of cheesy moments, it is quite fascinating to walk through streets trapped in time.  It isn't something for everyone.  The tour is dark, dusty, and a bit tricky to maneuver.  But, in my opinion it's worth checking out.  You won't find something like it anywhere else.  Huge thanks to the friends that led us down there.

Last but not least, food.  You're going to think I'm nuts.  Maybe it's the fact I haven't encountered a respectable bowl of salsa in a year, but in all seriousness take a break from the burgers, fish & chips, and haggis and head over to Rose Street for some Mexican at Miro's Cantina.  Scottish Mexican food may seem like the most bizarre idea ever, but there isn't a hint of Scotland about the place (save some of the servers).  The nachos are to die for.  There isn't a drop of freakishly liquid fluorescent orange cheese sauce anywhere.  The fajitas, well, it could be my flavor starved palate talking, but they were the best I've had anywhere.  Those alone were worth risking deportation for.  I will hold on to that memory for a long time.

So, obviously, we did make it back to our house free and clear, not that I wouldn't make telling you about Scottish Mexican food a priority while sitting in a Belgian prison.  Turns out that if one guy in the  Luxembourg foreign residency office gets sick then all of us who depend on the necessary paperwork are up a creek.  Thankfully, calls were made and the suspicious looking Americans were stamped through with an extra glare thrown in.  Oh well, even if things hadn't turned out, it would be difficult to regret those fajitas.

I can see why Edinburgh gets such rave reviews.  There are few places that live up to the hype, but the capital of Scotland definitely meets and exceeds expectations.  My only regret is that we didn't have more time.  Hopefully, we'll be able to make it back (legally) some day to see even more of this fabulous old city.  Edinburgh has a great deal to offer the tourist and if you're heading to the UK, please put it at the top of your list.  You won't be disappointed.

The Best Meal You'll Have in a Hospital

Today, I'm going to tell you about the best meal I've had in a year, heck, probably longer.  You're thinking, "Great, yet another blog post and photo album on someone's dinner that I don't care about."  More than likely, yes, but I'm going to tell you anyway.  It was that incredible.

It takes more than good food and drink to make a meal.  The truly excellent and memorable dining experience is more than what's on the plate.  The service, ambiance, pace, and the company are what make a great night out.

While there don't miss the beautiful hat rack and cane
stand.  A gorgeous work of art.

Last weekend, we stumbled upon a gem of restaurant in the Belgian Ardennes.  The town of Saint Hubert doesn't have too much to offer in the way of dining.  You can get your usual Italian, a kebab, and some overpriced raclette, but just outside the main center there is an institutional looking building that serves up seasonal dishes that won't disappoint.  Ann and Hans run L'Ancien Hopital at 23 Rue de la Fontaine, a restaurant and hotel in a renovated, you guessed it, old hospital.  The name is all that would suggest its history because there is no hint of "hospital" about the place.  Upon entering, guests with headwear are invited to hang them on an impressive rack of antlers.  What's not to love about that?  In the winter, you can sit by the fire and enjoy a house aperitif or a fine Belgian beer (two Trappists- Orval and nearby Rochefort are available) as you peruse the menu.  Then there's the amuse-bouche composed of some seasonal selections.  In the winter, you may be served some wild boar and warm spiced yellow beet juice.  Afterwards, you're off to your table and it's time to enjoy the main event, one that will in all likelihood take a few hours.  It's worth it.  Seasonal entrees or soups are next, accompanied by housemade fresh bread that will be replenished throughout the evening.  The mains are next on the list and you may have trouble deciding between dishes of fresh fish, beef, veal, Guinea fowl or perhaps they will have pheasant and venison.  You never know as the menu changes regularly.  That is the beauty of the place.  You never have to eat the same thing twice and each new creation is a pleasure for the senses.  I went with the trio of beef fillets and, sigh, I can't tell you how lovely it was to eat a perfectly cooked Black Angus steak.  It's been ages since I've had a properly seasoned one.  It tasted just as good as those at home, maybe better.  But, the meal doesn't end there, folks.  Oh no.  If you're willing to pay a little extra (you should) you can indulge in the cheese board.  And, this is no ordinary cheese board.

We were presented with seven beautiful pasteurized and unpasteurized cheeses from France, Scotland, The Swiss Alps,  and the Netherlands.  Each one was an incredible shock of flavor, but the one I will never forget was the truffle cheese from France.  In a word, splendid.  The Swiss cheese had a such a dusty thick rind you could practically taste the Alpine barn it had aged in.  They get their cheeses direct from Michel Van Tricht & Son, named by the Wall Street Journal as the best cheese shop in all of Europe.  If they're supplying cheese to the Belgian royal family, you know it has to be good.  And it is.  It is.  

Room must be saved for the dessert and a little coffee.  Beware of the Chocolate Mousse Bomb.  That sucker will take even the seasoned chocoholic to task.  I still haven't recovered.

f you happen to be around the Belgian Ardennes on a cycle or trekking tour please go out of your way to make some reservations at L'Ancien Hopital.  Bring your friends, sit back, relax, and prepare to experience an event.  Hans will take good care of you in Dutch, French, or English and Ann will make sure there's always a fresh slice of bread on your plate.  With amazing food, great service, and reasonable prices you will not be disappointed.  I know we will be back again and again.

The Little Shop Over the Border

Arlon isn't exactly at the top of the list for tourists passing through Belgium.  Sure, it's the oldest city in the country, but unlike the time trapped towns of Bruges and Gent, it kept on trucking into the modern era.  So, what we have is a city with a few old churches, a lackluster archaeological museum, a few war monuments here and there, an IKEA, but not much else to draw in busloads of tourists.  It's just a city in Belgium and that's about it.  Or so it seems.

I'm going to let you in on a little secret about Arlon.  Outside the city center and over by the train station there's this shop.  It doesn't look like much, actually it kinda looks like a doctor's office.  But behind its doors, is a room (a small room) full from floor to ceiling with some of the best beers in the world.  I know, I know, just another beer shop in Belgium, right? Wrong.  Yeah, it's a small place but every single one of their stock is hand selected by the owners, Jean and Chris, to provide their customers with only the best craft beers from the Province of Luxembourg (not to be confused with the Grand Duchy of the same name), the rest of Belgium, and anything else they can get their hands on from other parts of the world.

You will see some of the better known brews from Belgium, like Trappistes Rochefort, but this is also the place to get your hands on much rarer brews that can only be found locally or those that were only brewed and bottled once from some of the bigger names.   These aren't beers you crack open during the game, but ones that you cellar for years and save for a special occasion.  We're currently holding onto a St. Bernadus Abt 12 Magnum Edition that is quite the formidable ale.  They also pull in some great brews from further afield.  Their recent shipment from the States included brews from Rogue (gotta love some Dead Guy) and Hoppin' Frog, that's right fellow Akronites, Hoppin' Frog.  In addition to their acquisition of D.O.R.I.S The Destroyer and Hop Dam, they also recently stocked a few bottles of rare collaboration brews, Super Charged Saison (with Brouwerij de Molen) and Frog Hops to Amager (with Amager Bryghus).  Neither of these are available in the US market.  Stock changes often so it's worth making a trip over regularly to see what has been added to the shelves.  Of course, the owners have their customers' backs and regularly update their Facebook page and website with the latest acquisitions so you don't miss out on anything good.

Besides an excellent selection of brews, the best thing Miorge Mihoublon has going for it are its owners, Jean and Chris.  These guys are passionate about craft beer and it shows as soon as you walk in the door.  They love to talk beer and are happy to welcome you in and talk about it for as long as you like.  They'll lead you around the store, describing certain brews and brewing techniques in detail.  Let them know what you like in a beer and they'll point you in the right direction.  You won't leave empty handed.  In fact, you'll likely leave with a case.  They also make some chocolates which can be purchased, but personally I think their house brews are where they really shine.  I prefer the Jean|Chris Numero 2.  Now's the time to head over, as we roll into the holiday season.  There's a whole shelving unit dedicated to the Christmas Ales, some of which have been voted best in the world.  Mmmm, the beer cellar is calling...

Cheers!