An Afternoon Stop at Rapha Cycle Club London

We were in London last weekend visiting some friends.  All that talk about London being cycling mad is true, by the way.  We had a free afternoon after flying in so we decided to head over to the London Rapha Club to see what they were all about.

At first, we weren't sure.  It seemed like a hipster cycling themed coffee shop with some Team Sky paraphernalia on display.  The windows were covered in Marco Pantani themed art (I'm currently reading about Pantani's life and I honestly don't understand the glorification) and there seemed to be way more staff than necessary.  The menu looked quite good though, there were Giro themed specials and the main menu had a nice variety of cycling friendly foods.  We were starved after traveling all morning so decided this was as good as any place for a late lunch.  We both opted for the toasted cheese sandwiches and sat back to enjoy them (really tasty) and watch that day's stage of the Giro.  As the stage progressed, the place started to change.  People began to file in and grab a seat and later on, some standing room.  There were a lot of hipsters, a lot.  But, a good portion of the crowd were legitimate cycling fans.  Then, in the last 10km of the stage, it got real.  Everything in the cafe ground to a halt.  The staff came around from the counter.  Everyone put their eyes on the race.  We all sat there together, hipsters, roadies, fans, old and young and watched the race in almost total silence, waiting with baited breath to see the end result.  It was pretty darn cool.

When it was over, some grabbed their bikes and headed out.  Some stuck around for one more cup.  Others browsed through the racks.  I don't know if the customers were into the race because of the cycling mania that has hit London or what, but listening to a lot of the staff, I could tell these people really care about cycling and the products they carry.  They took the time to talk to customers about everything from their bibs to their socks and what would work best for the individual.  They were friendly and helpful.  They were, despite what the price tags, the artsy Ridley Scott films, the Chris King espresso tampers, the "Gentlemens Races," and the African hair sheep leather suggest, down to earth and easy to talk to even though neither of us has tattoo sleeves nor does my husband sport an ironic beard.

As for the clothes?  We picked up a variety of products.  The verdict is still out on their performance, I'll let you know after they've been saddle tested for a while.  But, I can tell you they are the most comfortable, well fitting cycling clothes I've tried on.  It was as if someone came to my house, took my measurements, and made me a custom kit.  The jersey was snug where it needed to be, but not too snug.  The bibs were supportive, but comfy.  I was impressed right off the bat without even getting on the bike.  Now that we're back from our trip, I'm looking forward to putting this stuff through the paces.

I have to admit, I was pretty hesitant about Rapha.  They do have a bit of a snooty reputation; their marketing is rather pretentious.  Wearing their stuff could be kinda like high school, buying what the cool kids wear hoping to fit in.  But, I'd been in the market for a new kit for a while, tired of picking up another set of $30 shorts and a jersey that isn't comfortable and can't handle heavy miles.  I was tired of compromising to save some money, tired of things riding up, flapping in the breeze, and performing pretty miserably.  I narrowed it down to a couple of brands, with Rapha being one.  From there it came down to being able to get it.  Not everyone ships to Germany.  Even if they do, there's the question of whether or not it will actually get to us.  Fun fact, the German customs department has a thing with stuff shipped from the US.  Anything worth more than about $20 is held at an office somewhere for the recipient to pick up.  Once they get there to pick up their stuff, they have to provide a receipt of purchase and pay fees that sometimes exceed the original price of the item.  Then, of course, there is the likely chance the stuff is just held indefinitely or pocketed by a customs worker.  So, that took any brand from the States off the table (unless I was willing to wait to pick it up on the annual visit home).  That left me with European brands, all of which are only available online here.  You can buy anything online, but I always balk at buying clothes unless I know how they fit.  So, the visit to Rapha to handle the products, try them on, and get a feel for the company made a huge difference.  I decided to go with them for the time being.  I can promise you one thing, if I do become a fan of Rapha it will be based on its performance, not because it has fancy labels in the clothing, they outfit Tour de France winners, or because of their brooding ads.  We'll see how it goes.

As for the Cycle Club London, it was pretty nifty to be in a place where people love cycling just as much as I do.  It would be pretty great if more places like that existed.

Prepping for Paris-Roubaix

All is quiet now...

This Sunday all of us who are suckers for a great bike race will be sitting down in front of the TV (or hunkering along a roadside in northern France if we're lucky) to witness one of the greatest single day races on the calendar.  For cycling connoisseurs this is the greatest month in cycling.  Sorry, July.  Last Sunday we had De Ronde van Vlaanderen, Paris-Roubaix this Sunday, and then the week of the Ardennes Classics beginning on the 20th.  It's the height of the Spring Classics season, and there isn't a better time of year to be a cycling fan.  I love the Spring Classics, particularly the ones in April, more than anything else on the schedule.  I love how unpredictable they are.  I love the landscape.  And, I love the intensity.  It's really hard to pick a favorite race.  Even after spectating almost all of them last year, I still couldn't pick one.  You can't beat the atmosphere at the Tour of Flanders.  Paris-Roubaix is hauntingly gorgeous.  The legacy and unique nature of the Ardennes can't be denied.  But, for many Roubaix is their number one.  It's a pretty big deal.

This week the teams are out on reconnaissance rides, prepping their bikes and minds for the Hell of the North.  Meanwhile, we fans have our own prepping to do.  We certainly shouldn't arrive on Sunday ill prepared anymore than the riders should.  How does a fan prepare, you ask?

First off, it doesn't hurt to review the events of last year's race.  You can watch the entire broadcast of the 2013 Paris-Roubaix here.   Of course, it wouldn't hurt to catch up on the 2012 edition either and relive Tom Boonen's famous solo ride.  Next, there are the documentaries.  The most well-known is Jørgen Leth's A Sunday in Hell which documents the 1976 edition featuring The Merckx, Roger De Vlaeminck, Francesco Moser, and Freddy Maertens.  This is one of the greats in cycling documentaries, but a little difficult to get your hands on.  Snippets are available online, but if you want to watch the whole thing you'll have to buy a copy.  Those aren't too easy to find either.  The next great documentary is the 2009 Road to Roubaix.  Lastly, you can catch the CBS broadcast of the 1988 edition which not only covers the race, but provides some great behind the scenes footage of Team 7-Eleven.  And, if you don't mind an amateur's attempt, here's my quick video of the Arenberg from last year.  


Trouée d'Arenberg from CG Inlux on Vimeo.

As for reading material, I have two recommendations.  First of all, the write up on The Inner Ring website is a fantastic, quick read on the history of the race.  They also feature some beautiful photos.  For a more lengthy story of L'enfer du Nord, check out the recently published book The Monuments by Peter Cossins.  I haven't gotten to the Roubaix section yet, but the Liege-Bastogne-Liege chapter was very well done.  

With all that under your belt you should be pretty well prepared for Sunday.  As for Sunday itself, all you have to do is find the least dodgy feed (unless you live somewhere that will broadcast in English), sit back, and watch the drama unfold.  Of course, all of this would be more enjoyable if preceded or followed by a bike ride (depending on your timezone).  But, you're guaranteed a successful Roubaix if it includes a great menu.  I've spent most of the week focusing on my Roubaix Day dinner and I'm pretty pleased with the final lineup.  For those who are interested, here's what I've come up with:

Starter

Deviled Eggs de l'enfer

Main

Poulet avec Pavè

"Punctured" Flat Noodles with Herbs

Classic Spring Classic Salad

Dessert*

Cinnamon-Sugar Dusted Shortbread Cobbles

or

Nutella Mud Pie

*Dessert Menu dependent on Sunday's weather.  I'm hoping for rain.

Drink pairings have yet to be determined.  I'm taking recommendations, as long as it's something I can find in a German grocery store.  

Anyway, Sunday will definitely not disappoint in regards to the racing.  Will Cancellara pull off a fourth win?  Will Boonen set the new record for the most wins?  Or, will another contender take the glory?  We'll find out on Sunday.  See you there!

Lovin' Leuven

Ok, I realize I talk about Belgium a lot.  I understand that I might have a small addiction to the place.  However, since the move to Germany, I don't think we'll be getting there much anymore.  When we realized that, we decided to ween ourselves off the land of strong beer and golden frites instead of going cold turkey.  So, one more visit was in order last weekend.  There was one place we wanted to visit one more time and another we hadn't made it to yet.

The revisit, of course, had to be L'Ancien Hopital in Saint-Hubert.  As they say, the third time's the charm.  We were pretty certain that it was our favorite restaurant ever, but a third visit would seal the deal.  We were right, not that there were any doubts.  This time we also booked a room, so it's not only the best restaurant ever, but it's also a lovely place to spend the weekend.  My final words on the subject:  If you are in Belgium (I'm talking to you, cycling fans) you need to make a special trip down to Saint-Hubert for a meal.  You will not be disappointed.  I'm certain of it.  Plus, it'll give you the opportunity to ride the lesser known roads of Wallonia.

Ok, now on to Leuven.  When people (I mean non-cycling fans now) visit Belgium, if they do at all, the big draws are Brussels and Bruges.  As a result, there are a lot of other equally awesome (if not better) cities that stay under the radar.  You get all the same sorts of things that draw people to the Big B's, but none of the tour buses.  Leuven is one of those cities.

Leuven is a university city.  It's about 25km east of Brussels in Flanders, so a piece a cake to visit on a day trip or an overnight stop if time in Belgium is brief.  While it's not like the preserved medieval cities of Bruges and Gent, it has a lot to offer the visitor.

First of all, it is home to InBev, the largest brewer in the world.  Stella Artois is brewed in the city and opens its doors to groups of visitors on the weekends.  If you're traveling with a large group, this might be worth a look.  English tours are provided.  If you're not interested in a tour or can't tag along with a group, you can visit their on site shop to pick up a souvenir.  Now, for those who prefer craft beer over the big factory brews, Leuven is also home to the smaller Huisbrouwerij Domus which makes 3 crafts at their location in the center as well as a pub.  Still not impressed with the brewing options?

The last weekend of April is Leuven's Beer Weekend (April 26-27 in 2014). It is the largest Belgian beer festival in the world!  During the weekend at least 100 brewers will be in the city offering their wares, there will be special tours at Domus and Stella, and special beer themed tours of the city.  We were told the majority of the participants are small craft breweries so it's an opportunity to try beers you won't find outside of this part Belgium.  As a bonus, this is the same weekend as Liège-Bastogne-Liège, so if you're in the area for the Ardennes Classics anyway...

Ok, enough about the beer.

Leuven being a University city, the oldest Catholic University in the world actually, is vibrant and eclectic.  You won't find the same old same old in Leuven.  The pedestrian shopping district is one of the largest I've visited and is dominated by unique boutiques and shops you won't find in every other city.  If you're interested in picking up something besides the usual tourist trap junk this would be a place to look.  There are plenty of churches and chapels to explore if you're an architecture enthusiast.  And there's a well reviewed art museum, M, if you're looking for an afternoon to appreciate Flemish masters or contemporary art.

And dinner?  You won't have trouble finding a place to cater to your cravings.  You can find traditional Flemish restaurants or something with a more creative bent.  Of course, if you're in the mood for Italian or Mexican or just about anything else, they have that too.  There are some truly fine dining options available.  You will definitely eat well.  But, make sure you book ahead.

Of course, the city has the same charm of the other Belgian cities with a massive (currently being restored) cathedral, flamboyant Town Hall, and traditional Flemish architecture.  It's a pleasure to stroll through the city squares, especially after hours when the shopping crowds clear out and the buildings are lit.

So, if you have time and want to see a corner of Belgium that's often overlooked, give Leuven a shot.  You may been pleasantly surprised!

How My Bike Is Saving My Life

The 100th Tour de France begins tomorrow.  For cycling fans this is what the year comes down to.  For the rest of the world, this is the only professional race they have heard of.  Rightly so.  It's a doozy.  While I waited along with you for the Tour of Tours to begin, I've spent a lot of time over the last few days thinking not so much about this upcoming competition or even the professional level of road racing.  Instead, I've been thinking about my personal relationship with the bicycle.  As the great race begins, we all enter into the second half of 2013.  Halfway through the year seems like a good time to assess how far we've come, with an eye to where we're headed.  The bicycle and I have come a long way together and I'm not just talking the kilometers we've travelled.  Like any journey, the past six months have been about more than distance covered.

Last week, my husband and I traveled home to Akron, Ohio.  We had been looking forward to this trip for quite a long time, probably about 6 months actually.  A year had passed since we had been home.  A lot had happened in that year.  We experienced things and saw places we'd only ever read about.  It had been, without a doubt, an incredible 365 days.  But, despite all that, we were really looking forward to visiting the familiar again.  We couldn't wait to see friends and family.  We looked forward to all sorts of things about home, not the least of which being all the edible delights.  Of course, we were looking forward to shopping too.  I was going to go to Walgreens for Band-Aids at midnight, just because I could.  But, one of the things I was most looking forward to was my annual checkup with my general practitioner.  Yeah, I know that sounds really bizarre.  It's true, though.  I couldn't wait to sit down with my doctor and chat about how my health had changed since the big move to Lux.

Never thought this rather lifeless view of the old hometown would warm the cockles of my heart.

The past six months have been, well, all about the bike.  I was determined to be at or very darned near a place physically where I could ride all day, every day.  I wanted to become a cyclist.  Really.  Through that process I wanted to get in the best shape of my life.  Ever.  Why?

I don't want to jostle for position in a crit or suffer through a stage race.  While I love to watch the competition, to me participating in such an event is about as desirable as a root canal.  I don't even want a QOM on Strava.  Heck, when I was a kid I'd intentionally misspell words in spelling B's so I wouldn't have to go head to head with my friends in front of the school.  The way I see it, we have enough conflict with others in life without purposefully inducing it.  But that's just the way I feel.  I have complete respect for healthy competition and those who participate in it, especially in sport.  But competition is not why I climb on the bike every day.  So, why am I here?

I don't want to wake up one morning wondering how I let things go so far.  I don't want to be popping pills for conditions I could have avoided by just living a healthy lifestyle.  I don't want to be held back from things I want to do whenever I want to do them.  I don't want to look back on my life at some point and regret a wasted youth.  In short, I want to live.  I want to live my life until the moment I finally clock out of here.

I'd made some mistakes that if continued could derail those hopes.  I knew from experience that the bicycle was going to be my ticket to correcting those mistakes.  We all have something, some sort of physical activity that we can do and love doing.  We just need to figure out what it is and then run with it.  For some it's team sports, for others it's solo sports.  For some it's the joy of competing against our peers, for other's it's the joy of competing against ourselves that keeps us coming back.  I never had a doubt about which sport was my thing.  It has always been the bike.  Figuring out exactly how the bike would become my thing has been a longer decision.  The bicycle isn't really like any other piece of sports equipment out there.  It can be used in so many different ways and in so many different disciplines that sometimes finding the one that fits takes a while.  I started on the bike with an interest in transportation that branched into recreation.  Being in Lux simplified things significantly.  I've had the means to discover a real love for road cycling.  So, road cycling is what the bicycle has become for me.  Sure, I'll still take the FX to the store, but when I think of cycling it's me alone (or with my husband), crouched over the drops, on a road somewhere, pushing myself.  Pushing myself to live.

The process started on January 1st, like all good resolutions do, and despite travel and illness it has
continued (miraculously) right up to today.  So, I was pretty excited to see how things stacked up with my doctor's records from the end of 2011.  When the first thing she said to me was, "Whatever you're doing, keep on doing it," I knew things looked good.  Blood pressure, heart rate, and cholesterol numbers have dropped and are exactly (and in some cases better than) where she wants them to be.  But the big story here is weight.  I've lost 40 lbs since I saw her in December 2011.  Thirty of them were lost since January of this year.  That's a big deal.

Everything has its specific place
in my diet.  In espresso's case, it's pre or mid-ride.

Obviously, it isn't just riding my bike that has gotten me to this point.  I wanted to redesign my life around the bike, not just make the bike a part of my life.  To do that I had to change the way I approached what I put in my body and how I helped it recover.  I totally changed the way I ate, from something that usually was the highlight of my day to something that helped me with what was now the highlight of the day- my ride.  High fat, high cholesterol foods weren't going to do me many favors on the bike, so they got reduced on the roster in favor of lean proteins, healthy carbs and other foods that are more efficient fuels.  Cheese, for example, while being one of my most appreciated foods had to be approached differently.  I wasn't going to cut it out all together (no need to be crazy), but I made it something I could enjoy more by giving it a different status in my diet- a special treat to be savored and appreciated, not tossed down without a second thought.  Beer had to be approached differently too.  Once again, I wasn't going to stop drinking it.  I was going to drink it differently.  Instead of going for a local pilsner, I only have beer when there's something available I haven't tried yet or I really like.  If a place doesn't have anything that meets my standards, I'll go for the water instead.  I'd rather wait for something more interesting.  Beer, in fact, is an excellent recovery drink.  So, after some of my more long and hot (there was a week here of proper summer temps) Womens 100 training rides, I'd reward myself with a small beer as a recovery aid.  Truth be told, I didn't cut anything out of my diet completely.  I didn't go vegetarian, paleo, carb free, or sugar free.  I didn't hold back on vacations either.  I use foods for how they can benefit me in my goal to be a cyclist.  Pretty much all foods can help in that process as long as they're used correctly, even bacon can have a role.

Recovery became extremely important too.  I made sure not to go overboard with the cycling, which can be hard to do when you really love it.  I listened to my body.  If something was hurting, I'd back off, do what needed to be done so it could heal, then figure out how to avoid the pain coming back in the future.  I made sure to get plenty of sleep.  I'd shape my meals around fuel and recovery, by eating things before my ride that will help my ride and eating certain things afterwards to help my muscles recover and heal.

I also started noticing some unexpected side-effects.  Cycling has given what could easily become a disjointed purposeless existence as an unemployed expat a focus.  Sure, I have my other interests and hobbies, but skipping out on photography for a few weeks isn't going to have a major negative impact on my health.  The bike keeps me on track.  It gets me up on time and in bed at a decent hour at night.  Additionally, there are mental health benefits to pedaling every day.  Something that they don't tell you in the expat brochure is that a majority of Americans struggle with being in Luxembourg for a long period of time.  Many end up on anti-depressants.  Why?  Well, it's probably for a number of reasons.  Luxembourg is not like the States.  I'm not saying it's a bad place, it's just very different and getting used to it can be hard to deal with.  The weather itself is no doubt a huge factor.  Thankfully, we come from a place in Northeast Ohio that's almost as overcast, but even the endless days of grey rain begin to take their toll on us.  Of course, it probably just comes down to living somewhere far from home, living a completely different lifestyle, and having to handle things you've never dealt with before.  You get lonely.  You get low.  But, at least for me, getting on the bike everyday has thus far combated that low feeling.  It's not just the known mental health benefits of daily exercise that have been there.  I think it has more to do with getting me out in this beautiful country.  During every ride there is a moment when I look up and say, "Wow, I can't believe I get to do this today.  Here.  I'm so incredibly blessed."  After those ride rides that totally kick my butt and then kick me when I'm down I can't help but think, "Europe is beating that crap out of me.  That's still pretty cool."

Have I met my goal of becoming a cyclist?  Yeah, I think so.  I certainly have the tan lines.  But, I have further to go.  That's the really cool thing about cycling.  There's always something else to look forward to.  The Womens 100 ride is next weekend.  When that's over, I'd like to keep up that level of riding to the winter.  When next year comes around, perhaps the goal will be doing 100 Miles instead of 100K.  Someday I want to get to a place with climbing that doesn't feel completely excruciating.   I'd like to look at almost any road, shrug, swing the leg over, clip in, and begin cranking those pedals with more excitement than trepidation.  But, I'd like a road to be out there somewhere that still holds a little dread.
 
Cuz, ya know, that's living.

Real Ale, Bathroom Graffiti, Buried Alleys, & Fajitas

We were standing at the customs desk trying to look as confident as possible while this portly and rather grumpy Belgian police officer decided our fate.  Would we be hearing the wonderful sound of a click and slam of the stamp that would let us return to our house or the fateful words "Please come with me" while being lead into some sterile security office to begin deportation proceedings?  He read over our papers, very slowly.  He looked at the passports again.  He looked at us.  Again.  We held our breath.  How did this happen?

Rewind a few days back.

Edinburgh was named Travel Destination of the Year at the Travel Awards last year and for good reason.  It's not a massive city.  With a centrally located train station, walkable and bikeable streets, unique attractions, lots of food and drink options, and citizens that may be some of the nicest people in Europe you really couldn't go wrong.

We spent last weekend in Edinburgh exploring nooks and crannies, most of which were food and beverage related.  So, you want to know what there is in Edinburgh that is worth risking deportation for?  Well, here you go.

Pubs.  Good pubs are the heart and soul of this city and there are plenty to choose from.  We had the pleasure of being pointed in the right direction by some locals so we were thankfully introduced to a couple of gems.  First off is The Wally Dug on Northumberland Street.  It's the perfect example for why you have to look below street level in Britain.  There are some great finds under the stairs.  The Wally Dug is one of them.  Most of the ales on tap are Belhaven, and there are some excellent selections from their stock.  They also have some craft cask ales available, which are certainly worth a taste.  Cask ales (as opposed to those served from kegs) are something special and not a brew you're going to find in very many places outside of the United Kingdom.  Unfiltered, unpasteurized, and served without additional nitrogen or carbon dioxide pressure, they're not going to taste quite like anything else.  Sometimes they come out a little warmer than you'd expect, and that's something to get used to.  But, with all the variety of ales to be had you're bound to find one or six that you enjoy.  I do love my Belgian brews, but, wow, it was nice to have a stout again!

If you happen to be in Old Town, then another great option (and this one is my favorite) is the Jolly Judge tucked in, up and around James Court, one of the famous closes or alleyways.  It's another one of those places under the stairs, with a warm fire and an excellent selection of cask ales, ciders, and whiskies.  The atmosphere is spot on.  It was awfully tempting to spend the day there.  That's just two places.  There were several others that were just as lovely.  Milnes Bar, one of the Taylor Walker pubs, comes to mind as well.  Wherever you end up grabbing a pint, I'm pretty certain you'll discover one commonality (besides the beautiful ales).  The folks that tend bar in Edinburgh really are a wonderful lot.  They're happy to have you in their establishment, they'll serve you with a smile, and will go out of their way to make recommendations if you need one.  Pubs in Edinburgh are the way pubs are supposed to be.

Ok, if you're not into ales or whiskies then a coffee shop may be a better choice.  The Elephant House is probably one of the most famous coffee shops in the world.  To be honest, I hadn't heard of it.  But, Harry Potter fans probably have.  Apparently, this is the spot where J.K. Rowling penned a good portion of her novels.  While the coffee is pretty good, the pastries look irresistible, and the atmosphere is unique, the bathrooms are the real draw.  No, seriously.  Normally, when I step into a restroom and see the walls have been covered (and I mean COVERED) in graffiti I feel like I'll need to wash my hands twice.  At least.  But, after glancing around I realized that it wasn't vulgarities and phone numbers scrawled on the walls, but beautiful and sweet messages of thanks from all over the world for lives enriched by literature.  It's worth a peek.

Now, Edinburgh has lots to see and do.  Capital cities are like that.  There are all sorts of museums.  Museums on whisky, museums on weaving, museums on torture.  Of course, there's also the giant castle sitting on top of an extinct volcano smack dab in the middle of everything.  I'm sure they're all fascinating, but you'd need more than a weekend to see every attraction.  One thing we did get in, which I highly recommend, is definitely one of the most unique spots I've ever visited.

The Real Mary King's Close tour takes visitors underneath modern day Old Town (yeah, I know that sounds confusing).  This tour isn't your typical history tour.  You actually go underneath the city into the old house foundations and actual streets that were built over during the construction of the Royal Exchange.  It's a bit complicated to explain, but basically when they decided to build the Exchange they determined it would save time, money, and materials just to level off the buildings that were already there and use their foundations as the foundations for the Exchange.  Most of these underground spaces were filled in or can't be accessed, but there is a section that was reopened to the public in 2003 that provides a space to explain 15th and 16th Century life in Edinburgh.  While the tour has its cheesy moments, ok, it has a lot of cheesy moments, it is quite fascinating to walk through streets trapped in time.  It isn't something for everyone.  The tour is dark, dusty, and a bit tricky to maneuver.  But, in my opinion it's worth checking out.  You won't find something like it anywhere else.  Huge thanks to the friends that led us down there.

Last but not least, food.  You're going to think I'm nuts.  Maybe it's the fact I haven't encountered a respectable bowl of salsa in a year, but in all seriousness take a break from the burgers, fish & chips, and haggis and head over to Rose Street for some Mexican at Miro's Cantina.  Scottish Mexican food may seem like the most bizarre idea ever, but there isn't a hint of Scotland about the place (save some of the servers).  The nachos are to die for.  There isn't a drop of freakishly liquid fluorescent orange cheese sauce anywhere.  The fajitas, well, it could be my flavor starved palate talking, but they were the best I've had anywhere.  Those alone were worth risking deportation for.  I will hold on to that memory for a long time.

So, obviously, we did make it back to our house free and clear, not that I wouldn't make telling you about Scottish Mexican food a priority while sitting in a Belgian prison.  Turns out that if one guy in the  Luxembourg foreign residency office gets sick then all of us who depend on the necessary paperwork are up a creek.  Thankfully, calls were made and the suspicious looking Americans were stamped through with an extra glare thrown in.  Oh well, even if things hadn't turned out, it would be difficult to regret those fajitas.

I can see why Edinburgh gets such rave reviews.  There are few places that live up to the hype, but the capital of Scotland definitely meets and exceeds expectations.  My only regret is that we didn't have more time.  Hopefully, we'll be able to make it back (legally) some day to see even more of this fabulous old city.  Edinburgh has a great deal to offer the tourist and if you're heading to the UK, please put it at the top of your list.  You won't be disappointed.

The Best Meal You'll Have in a Hospital

Today, I'm going to tell you about the best meal I've had in a year, heck, probably longer.  You're thinking, "Great, yet another blog post and photo album on someone's dinner that I don't care about."  More than likely, yes, but I'm going to tell you anyway.  It was that incredible.

It takes more than good food and drink to make a meal.  The truly excellent and memorable dining experience is more than what's on the plate.  The service, ambiance, pace, and the company are what make a great night out.

While there don't miss the beautiful hat rack and cane
stand.  A gorgeous work of art.

Last weekend, we stumbled upon a gem of restaurant in the Belgian Ardennes.  The town of Saint Hubert doesn't have too much to offer in the way of dining.  You can get your usual Italian, a kebab, and some overpriced raclette, but just outside the main center there is an institutional looking building that serves up seasonal dishes that won't disappoint.  Ann and Hans run L'Ancien Hopital at 23 Rue de la Fontaine, a restaurant and hotel in a renovated, you guessed it, old hospital.  The name is all that would suggest its history because there is no hint of "hospital" about the place.  Upon entering, guests with headwear are invited to hang them on an impressive rack of antlers.  What's not to love about that?  In the winter, you can sit by the fire and enjoy a house aperitif or a fine Belgian beer (two Trappists- Orval and nearby Rochefort are available) as you peruse the menu.  Then there's the amuse-bouche composed of some seasonal selections.  In the winter, you may be served some wild boar and warm spiced yellow beet juice.  Afterwards, you're off to your table and it's time to enjoy the main event, one that will in all likelihood take a few hours.  It's worth it.  Seasonal entrees or soups are next, accompanied by housemade fresh bread that will be replenished throughout the evening.  The mains are next on the list and you may have trouble deciding between dishes of fresh fish, beef, veal, Guinea fowl or perhaps they will have pheasant and venison.  You never know as the menu changes regularly.  That is the beauty of the place.  You never have to eat the same thing twice and each new creation is a pleasure for the senses.  I went with the trio of beef fillets and, sigh, I can't tell you how lovely it was to eat a perfectly cooked Black Angus steak.  It's been ages since I've had a properly seasoned one.  It tasted just as good as those at home, maybe better.  But, the meal doesn't end there, folks.  Oh no.  If you're willing to pay a little extra (you should) you can indulge in the cheese board.  And, this is no ordinary cheese board.

We were presented with seven beautiful pasteurized and unpasteurized cheeses from France, Scotland, The Swiss Alps,  and the Netherlands.  Each one was an incredible shock of flavor, but the one I will never forget was the truffle cheese from France.  In a word, splendid.  The Swiss cheese had a such a dusty thick rind you could practically taste the Alpine barn it had aged in.  They get their cheeses direct from Michel Van Tricht & Son, named by the Wall Street Journal as the best cheese shop in all of Europe.  If they're supplying cheese to the Belgian royal family, you know it has to be good.  And it is.  It is.  

Room must be saved for the dessert and a little coffee.  Beware of the Chocolate Mousse Bomb.  That sucker will take even the seasoned chocoholic to task.  I still haven't recovered.

f you happen to be around the Belgian Ardennes on a cycle or trekking tour please go out of your way to make some reservations at L'Ancien Hopital.  Bring your friends, sit back, relax, and prepare to experience an event.  Hans will take good care of you in Dutch, French, or English and Ann will make sure there's always a fresh slice of bread on your plate.  With amazing food, great service, and reasonable prices you will not be disappointed.  I know we will be back again and again.

The Little Shop Over the Border

Arlon isn't exactly at the top of the list for tourists passing through Belgium.  Sure, it's the oldest city in the country, but unlike the time trapped towns of Bruges and Gent, it kept on trucking into the modern era.  So, what we have is a city with a few old churches, a lackluster archaeological museum, a few war monuments here and there, an IKEA, but not much else to draw in busloads of tourists.  It's just a city in Belgium and that's about it.  Or so it seems.

I'm going to let you in on a little secret about Arlon.  Outside the city center and over by the train station there's this shop.  It doesn't look like much, actually it kinda looks like a doctor's office.  But behind its doors, is a room (a small room) full from floor to ceiling with some of the best beers in the world.  I know, I know, just another beer shop in Belgium, right? Wrong.  Yeah, it's a small place but every single one of their stock is hand selected by the owners, Jean and Chris, to provide their customers with only the best craft beers from the Province of Luxembourg (not to be confused with the Grand Duchy of the same name), the rest of Belgium, and anything else they can get their hands on from other parts of the world.

You will see some of the better known brews from Belgium, like Trappistes Rochefort, but this is also the place to get your hands on much rarer brews that can only be found locally or those that were only brewed and bottled once from some of the bigger names.   These aren't beers you crack open during the game, but ones that you cellar for years and save for a special occasion.  We're currently holding onto a St. Bernadus Abt 12 Magnum Edition that is quite the formidable ale.  They also pull in some great brews from further afield.  Their recent shipment from the States included brews from Rogue (gotta love some Dead Guy) and Hoppin' Frog, that's right fellow Akronites, Hoppin' Frog.  In addition to their acquisition of D.O.R.I.S The Destroyer and Hop Dam, they also recently stocked a few bottles of rare collaboration brews, Super Charged Saison (with Brouwerij de Molen) and Frog Hops to Amager (with Amager Bryghus).  Neither of these are available in the US market.  Stock changes often so it's worth making a trip over regularly to see what has been added to the shelves.  Of course, the owners have their customers' backs and regularly update their Facebook page and website with the latest acquisitions so you don't miss out on anything good.

Besides an excellent selection of brews, the best thing Miorge Mihoublon has going for it are its owners, Jean and Chris.  These guys are passionate about craft beer and it shows as soon as you walk in the door.  They love to talk beer and are happy to welcome you in and talk about it for as long as you like.  They'll lead you around the store, describing certain brews and brewing techniques in detail.  Let them know what you like in a beer and they'll point you in the right direction.  You won't leave empty handed.  In fact, you'll likely leave with a case.  They also make some chocolates which can be purchased, but personally I think their house brews are where they really shine.  I prefer the Jean|Chris Numero 2.  Now's the time to head over, as we roll into the holiday season.  There's a whole shelving unit dedicated to the Christmas Ales, some of which have been voted best in the world.  Mmmm, the beer cellar is calling...

Cheers!

Getting That Perfect Cup At Home

Coffee.  You either love it or you hate it.  I used to be a hater, until one fateful overnight drive from Boston.  The only thing that could keep us going were truly miserable cups o' joe out of a vending machine.  When you start at the bottom, you can only go up.  It took a genuine cup a day later to make it official, I was converted.  I quickly progressed from coffee with sugar and milk, to straight black, the stronger the better.  The Mr. also prefers his black and bold, but with a couple lumps.

It wasn't until we moved here that we were properly introduced to what would become the coffee we have always been subconsciously searching for.  Sure, obviously we have espresso in the United States but with all the macchiatos, spiced lattes, mochas, and sugar bomb Frappuccinos the good stuff doesn't get a lot of screen time.  For most people, it's a bit of a fringe drink.  Very Euro.  Very small.  Too strong.  Not a proper cup of coffee.  For me, it was love.  And it wasn't only the espressos, but even the "standard" pressure brewed coffees were a revelation.  I'd rather have a small, perfectly smooth and strong cup, than a big mug of filtered Joe any day. It didn't take long to determine who pulled the best espressos in town.  Our cafe is a great place to grab a cold beer and watch the people walk by, but their espressos were nearly a quarter grit.  The Chinese restaurant around the corner, however, pulls a brilliant shot and they also serve them with my favorite biscuits.  Before long, having an espresso or a coffee after dinner at a restaurant became as necessary as dessert.  We played with the idea of picking up an espresso machine for home since going out is a rarity, but at nearly 600€ a pop it looked like our fine coffee drinking would be reserved for a night out or a mid or post ride stop at a cafe.

All that changed last Friday night when we went to a friend's house.  After a delicious and relaxed dinner of raclette and dessert of chocolate cake, she offered us some coffee.  That's when we learned about Nespresso.  We didn't know anything about Nespresso.  We figured that it was something like a Keurig machine, that has captured the hearts of so many people back home.  Well, like we say here in Luxembourg, nee! (pronounced "nay", not "ni" as in the Knights Who Say).  Nespresso is a whole nuther animal altogether.  It takes the same concept of pre-measure and packaged servings of finely ground coffee, but brews them under high pressure instead of with the filtration method.  What you get is the capability of having a lungo or espresso at home without the cost and labor of a traditional machine.  All you do is pop one of the nifty capsules in the machine, choose what serving size you want, push the button, and Bam!- a few seconds later you have a perfect cup of espresso, complete with the rich crema foam.  Sure, coffee purists may scoff at such a method, but in my opinion we're not all interested in becoming baristas.  We just want a delicious cup of espresso without the time, hassle and expense.  There are many different machines you can choose from that come in a variety of colors and price ranges and have different capabilities.  The highest priced machine is just a hair cheaper than a tradition espresso machine, but also automatically brews cappuccinos.  It will even pre-warm your cup for you. Lower priced models have fewer bells and whistles, but many still warm milk for cappuccinos and lattes. 

They have 16 different varieties of fair trade coffee.  Five to six grams of the finely ground coffee are packaged in the aluminum Grand Crus, which are air tight and designed for a perfect short pour or long pour espresso, depending on the variety.  When the capsule is clamped into the machine, it is perforated and the super heated water is forced through with high pressure.  When the pouring is finished, opening the machine releases the spent capsule and the process is complete.  It takes at most 4 minutes including the time for the machine to heat the water.

There are Nespresso Boutiques all over Europe and the machines are sold in the States at many stores like Macy's and Crate & Barrel.  For those who do not live near a boutique, such as anyone in Northeast Ohio, there is a club from which members can order the capsules online to be delivered at home and receive other benefits such as coupons and seasonal promotions.  They are still rather new to the market in the States, but over time the brand is hoping to expand across the Atlantic.  Of course, espresso at home may still be too fringe for the American crowd.

If you're wondering what happens to all those aluminum capsules, that is really up to the consumer.  Nespresso makes recycling them a very easy process.  They will give you free bags to collect your spent capsules, which can either be dropped off at any Kiala collection point (there are 40 in Luxembourg alone), returned to one of the Nespresso Boutique shops, or handed to the delivery person who is dropping off your next order.  There's really no reason why you can't participate in the recycling process.  More information on the company's environmental policies can be found here.

Is the Nespresso thing for the yuppie crowd, the latte liberals?  Yeah, I'd say so.  When you walk into one of those boutiques everyone is dressed in designer suits and sipping samples at the bar while talking about global finance.  Well... that probably has something to do with being in Lux City.  But, the salesperson will talk about the design of the machines, instead of their functions.  The coffees are described as luxurious, sultry, and sophisticated.  It's definitely marketed as a status appliance; not gonna lie.  But here's the thing, these machines are for people who enjoy espresso and want an easy way to have a nice cup with their favorite biscuit at home.  Espresso isn't something you pour into your travel mug and gulp in the car on the way to work.  It's a drink to be enjoyed over conversation, after a good meal or a long bike ride.  Of course, the cycling crowd has a special affinity for fine coffee.  There's something we love about pausing halfway or finishing a ride with the perfect cup.  For those who's only option is the corner Starbucks or the place that serves every cup with .5cm of grounds in the bottom, investing in a Nespresso may be the way to go.  Anyway, where better to enjoy your well earned java than at your own table ?

At the risk of being labeled a snob, I say you get what you pay for and sometimes it's worth paying a little extra for something you relish.