An Afternoon Stop at Rapha Cycle Club London

We were in London last weekend visiting some friends.  All that talk about London being cycling mad is true, by the way.  We had a free afternoon after flying in so we decided to head over to the London Rapha Club to see what they were all about.

At first, we weren't sure.  It seemed like a hipster cycling themed coffee shop with some Team Sky paraphernalia on display.  The windows were covered in Marco Pantani themed art (I'm currently reading about Pantani's life and I honestly don't understand the glorification) and there seemed to be way more staff than necessary.  The menu looked quite good though, there were Giro themed specials and the main menu had a nice variety of cycling friendly foods.  We were starved after traveling all morning so decided this was as good as any place for a late lunch.  We both opted for the toasted cheese sandwiches and sat back to enjoy them (really tasty) and watch that day's stage of the Giro.  As the stage progressed, the place started to change.  People began to file in and grab a seat and later on, some standing room.  There were a lot of hipsters, a lot.  But, a good portion of the crowd were legitimate cycling fans.  Then, in the last 10km of the stage, it got real.  Everything in the cafe ground to a halt.  The staff came around from the counter.  Everyone put their eyes on the race.  We all sat there together, hipsters, roadies, fans, old and young and watched the race in almost total silence, waiting with baited breath to see the end result.  It was pretty darn cool.

When it was over, some grabbed their bikes and headed out.  Some stuck around for one more cup.  Others browsed through the racks.  I don't know if the customers were into the race because of the cycling mania that has hit London or what, but listening to a lot of the staff, I could tell these people really care about cycling and the products they carry.  They took the time to talk to customers about everything from their bibs to their socks and what would work best for the individual.  They were friendly and helpful.  They were, despite what the price tags, the artsy Ridley Scott films, the Chris King espresso tampers, the "Gentlemens Races," and the African hair sheep leather suggest, down to earth and easy to talk to even though neither of us has tattoo sleeves nor does my husband sport an ironic beard.

As for the clothes?  We picked up a variety of products.  The verdict is still out on their performance, I'll let you know after they've been saddle tested for a while.  But, I can tell you they are the most comfortable, well fitting cycling clothes I've tried on.  It was as if someone came to my house, took my measurements, and made me a custom kit.  The jersey was snug where it needed to be, but not too snug.  The bibs were supportive, but comfy.  I was impressed right off the bat without even getting on the bike.  Now that we're back from our trip, I'm looking forward to putting this stuff through the paces.

I have to admit, I was pretty hesitant about Rapha.  They do have a bit of a snooty reputation; their marketing is rather pretentious.  Wearing their stuff could be kinda like high school, buying what the cool kids wear hoping to fit in.  But, I'd been in the market for a new kit for a while, tired of picking up another set of $30 shorts and a jersey that isn't comfortable and can't handle heavy miles.  I was tired of compromising to save some money, tired of things riding up, flapping in the breeze, and performing pretty miserably.  I narrowed it down to a couple of brands, with Rapha being one.  From there it came down to being able to get it.  Not everyone ships to Germany.  Even if they do, there's the question of whether or not it will actually get to us.  Fun fact, the German customs department has a thing with stuff shipped from the US.  Anything worth more than about $20 is held at an office somewhere for the recipient to pick up.  Once they get there to pick up their stuff, they have to provide a receipt of purchase and pay fees that sometimes exceed the original price of the item.  Then, of course, there is the likely chance the stuff is just held indefinitely or pocketed by a customs worker.  So, that took any brand from the States off the table (unless I was willing to wait to pick it up on the annual visit home).  That left me with European brands, all of which are only available online here.  You can buy anything online, but I always balk at buying clothes unless I know how they fit.  So, the visit to Rapha to handle the products, try them on, and get a feel for the company made a huge difference.  I decided to go with them for the time being.  I can promise you one thing, if I do become a fan of Rapha it will be based on its performance, not because it has fancy labels in the clothing, they outfit Tour de France winners, or because of their brooding ads.  We'll see how it goes.

As for the Cycle Club London, it was pretty nifty to be in a place where people love cycling just as much as I do.  It would be pretty great if more places like that existed.

Prepping for Paris-Roubaix

All is quiet now...

This Sunday all of us who are suckers for a great bike race will be sitting down in front of the TV (or hunkering along a roadside in northern France if we're lucky) to witness one of the greatest single day races on the calendar.  For cycling connoisseurs this is the greatest month in cycling.  Sorry, July.  Last Sunday we had De Ronde van Vlaanderen, Paris-Roubaix this Sunday, and then the week of the Ardennes Classics beginning on the 20th.  It's the height of the Spring Classics season, and there isn't a better time of year to be a cycling fan.  I love the Spring Classics, particularly the ones in April, more than anything else on the schedule.  I love how unpredictable they are.  I love the landscape.  And, I love the intensity.  It's really hard to pick a favorite race.  Even after spectating almost all of them last year, I still couldn't pick one.  You can't beat the atmosphere at the Tour of Flanders.  Paris-Roubaix is hauntingly gorgeous.  The legacy and unique nature of the Ardennes can't be denied.  But, for many Roubaix is their number one.  It's a pretty big deal.

This week the teams are out on reconnaissance rides, prepping their bikes and minds for the Hell of the North.  Meanwhile, we fans have our own prepping to do.  We certainly shouldn't arrive on Sunday ill prepared anymore than the riders should.  How does a fan prepare, you ask?

First off, it doesn't hurt to review the events of last year's race.  You can watch the entire broadcast of the 2013 Paris-Roubaix here.   Of course, it wouldn't hurt to catch up on the 2012 edition either and relive Tom Boonen's famous solo ride.  Next, there are the documentaries.  The most well-known is Jørgen Leth's A Sunday in Hell which documents the 1976 edition featuring The Merckx, Roger De Vlaeminck, Francesco Moser, and Freddy Maertens.  This is one of the greats in cycling documentaries, but a little difficult to get your hands on.  Snippets are available online, but if you want to watch the whole thing you'll have to buy a copy.  Those aren't too easy to find either.  The next great documentary is the 2009 Road to Roubaix.  Lastly, you can catch the CBS broadcast of the 1988 edition which not only covers the race, but provides some great behind the scenes footage of Team 7-Eleven.  And, if you don't mind an amateur's attempt, here's my quick video of the Arenberg from last year.  


Trouée d'Arenberg from CG Inlux on Vimeo.

As for reading material, I have two recommendations.  First of all, the write up on The Inner Ring website is a fantastic, quick read on the history of the race.  They also feature some beautiful photos.  For a more lengthy story of L'enfer du Nord, check out the recently published book The Monuments by Peter Cossins.  I haven't gotten to the Roubaix section yet, but the Liege-Bastogne-Liege chapter was very well done.  

With all that under your belt you should be pretty well prepared for Sunday.  As for Sunday itself, all you have to do is find the least dodgy feed (unless you live somewhere that will broadcast in English), sit back, and watch the drama unfold.  Of course, all of this would be more enjoyable if preceded or followed by a bike ride (depending on your timezone).  But, you're guaranteed a successful Roubaix if it includes a great menu.  I've spent most of the week focusing on my Roubaix Day dinner and I'm pretty pleased with the final lineup.  For those who are interested, here's what I've come up with:

Starter

Deviled Eggs de l'enfer

Main

Poulet avec Pavè

"Punctured" Flat Noodles with Herbs

Classic Spring Classic Salad

Dessert*

Cinnamon-Sugar Dusted Shortbread Cobbles

or

Nutella Mud Pie

*Dessert Menu dependent on Sunday's weather.  I'm hoping for rain.

Drink pairings have yet to be determined.  I'm taking recommendations, as long as it's something I can find in a German grocery store.  

Anyway, Sunday will definitely not disappoint in regards to the racing.  Will Cancellara pull off a fourth win?  Will Boonen set the new record for the most wins?  Or, will another contender take the glory?  We'll find out on Sunday.  See you there!

Lovin' Leuven

Ok, I realize I talk about Belgium a lot.  I understand that I might have a small addiction to the place.  However, since the move to Germany, I don't think we'll be getting there much anymore.  When we realized that, we decided to ween ourselves off the land of strong beer and golden frites instead of going cold turkey.  So, one more visit was in order last weekend.  There was one place we wanted to visit one more time and another we hadn't made it to yet.

The revisit, of course, had to be L'Ancien Hopital in Saint-Hubert.  As they say, the third time's the charm.  We were pretty certain that it was our favorite restaurant ever, but a third visit would seal the deal.  We were right, not that there were any doubts.  This time we also booked a room, so it's not only the best restaurant ever, but it's also a lovely place to spend the weekend.  My final words on the subject:  If you are in Belgium (I'm talking to you, cycling fans) you need to make a special trip down to Saint-Hubert for a meal.  You will not be disappointed.  I'm certain of it.  Plus, it'll give you the opportunity to ride the lesser known roads of Wallonia.

Ok, now on to Leuven.  When people (I mean non-cycling fans now) visit Belgium, if they do at all, the big draws are Brussels and Bruges.  As a result, there are a lot of other equally awesome (if not better) cities that stay under the radar.  You get all the same sorts of things that draw people to the Big B's, but none of the tour buses.  Leuven is one of those cities.

Leuven is a university city.  It's about 25km east of Brussels in Flanders, so a piece a cake to visit on a day trip or an overnight stop if time in Belgium is brief.  While it's not like the preserved medieval cities of Bruges and Gent, it has a lot to offer the visitor.

First of all, it is home to InBev, the largest brewer in the world.  Stella Artois is brewed in the city and opens its doors to groups of visitors on the weekends.  If you're traveling with a large group, this might be worth a look.  English tours are provided.  If you're not interested in a tour or can't tag along with a group, you can visit their on site shop to pick up a souvenir.  Now, for those who prefer craft beer over the big factory brews, Leuven is also home to the smaller Huisbrouwerij Domus which makes 3 crafts at their location in the center as well as a pub.  Still not impressed with the brewing options?

The last weekend of April is Leuven's Beer Weekend (April 26-27 in 2014). It is the largest Belgian beer festival in the world!  During the weekend at least 100 brewers will be in the city offering their wares, there will be special tours at Domus and Stella, and special beer themed tours of the city.  We were told the majority of the participants are small craft breweries so it's an opportunity to try beers you won't find outside of this part Belgium.  As a bonus, this is the same weekend as Liège-Bastogne-Liège, so if you're in the area for the Ardennes Classics anyway...

Ok, enough about the beer.

Leuven being a University city, the oldest Catholic University in the world actually, is vibrant and eclectic.  You won't find the same old same old in Leuven.  The pedestrian shopping district is one of the largest I've visited and is dominated by unique boutiques and shops you won't find in every other city.  If you're interested in picking up something besides the usual tourist trap junk this would be a place to look.  There are plenty of churches and chapels to explore if you're an architecture enthusiast.  And there's a well reviewed art museum, M, if you're looking for an afternoon to appreciate Flemish masters or contemporary art.

And dinner?  You won't have trouble finding a place to cater to your cravings.  You can find traditional Flemish restaurants or something with a more creative bent.  Of course, if you're in the mood for Italian or Mexican or just about anything else, they have that too.  There are some truly fine dining options available.  You will definitely eat well.  But, make sure you book ahead.

Of course, the city has the same charm of the other Belgian cities with a massive (currently being restored) cathedral, flamboyant Town Hall, and traditional Flemish architecture.  It's a pleasure to stroll through the city squares, especially after hours when the shopping crowds clear out and the buildings are lit.

So, if you have time and want to see a corner of Belgium that's often overlooked, give Leuven a shot.  You may been pleasantly surprised!

Dungeons, Dragons, & Handmade Soaps

Summer time in this part of the world means it's also Medieval Fest season.  They range from small affairs to enormous festivals that draw people from all over the region.  These are popular events to bring children to so they can see jousting, hear some music, and watch all sorts of demonstrations from blacksmiths to falconry.  The adults like them because they're usually cheap, have plenty of food and drink, and they sport the best people watching this side of the Rhine.

Besides all the obvious reasons to check out a medieval faire, there is one other reason I try to get to at least one a year.  Believe it or not, these festivals are a great place to pick up some fantastic handmade goods.  Carpenters, potters, cobblers, soap makers, basket weavers, bookbinders, leather craftsmen, blacksmiths, and purveyors of home raised & crafted foods all have their wares for sale at medieval fairs.  Basically, these events are kinda like farmer's markets, except with choreographed violence and elaborate costumes.

At a recent fair, I picked up this leather book cover which the
book binder custom made while I waited.  The leather is local
and tanned with historic processes.  He also had bound books
with handmade paper and parchment.

Many of the vendors travel from fair to fair so they are used to speaking with tourists from all over.  Most of them are happy to discuss how they produce their goods and some (depending on what it is) can make custom products while you wait.  The prices are usually quite reasonable, and are a higher quality than anything you would find at a souvenir boutique.  Many of these items are also made in the historical traditions of the period and the vendors are quite proud that their products are authentic.

So, if you're looking for something different to do or are in the market for a unique gift or story, seek out one these medieval fairs.  There are even a few with a Roman theme, if you prefer gladiators and pickled olives with wine instead of knights and camembert sausage with ale.  One thing is for sure; you will definitely get a show.

The One About Chocolate

We all love chocolate.  OK, some of you out there don't, which I find very perplexing.  Anyway, most of us out there love chocolate.  Some of us, including myself, have rather strong feelings about it.  Except for special exceptions, dessert isn't dessert if there is no chocolate involved.  Now, in the quest for a more healthy lifestyle, the love of chocolate can be a bit of a hang up.  Tragically, one must pass on the delicious ice creams (sometime let me tell you about the glory of Mövenpick), in favor of healthier desserts.  Thankfully, chocolate can still make an appearance in the dessert bowls of those who love it dearly.

Chocolate, and when I say chocolate I mean Dark Chocolate, is known for its health benefits.  According to the Cleveland Clinic, consumption of dark chocolate that has not been overly refined in the production process can help lower bad cholesterol (LDL) and lower blood pressure, which increases blood flow throughout the body- which decreases the chance of heart attacks and strokes.  Dark chocolate is also rich in antioxidants which combat inflammation and it helps to raise insulin sensitivity in the blood, which helps your body process carbohydrates with more efficiency. For those leading an athletic lifestyle these benefits are particularly attractive.  Of course, you can't stuff yourself with it either.  The Cleveland Clinic recommends eating just an ounce (28g) a couple times a week. You also need to keep an eye on the label.  Sixty to seventy percent dark is where you want to start, if you can tolerate a stronger percentage that's even better.  Go any lower than 60% and you're mostly just getting other additives and not the ingredients you're after.  Don't even bother with Milk or White chocolates. Thankfully, several high end chocolate manufactures produce bars within these requirements.

One widely available brand, Lindt from Switzerland, produces a range of bars under the Excellence label that begin in 70% level and go all the way up to the 99% cocoa level.  Lindt is my personal go to choice because I can usually find it everywhere I go, from the American Midwest to Alpine Villages to the coast of Spain.  Other brands, such as Green & Black's, aren't as widely available.

http://www.lindtusa.com/index-exec/

The Excellence line can be found in nearly every grocery store in the United States and Europe.  Of course, this line also includes a wide variety of flavored bars- everything from wasabi paste to strawberry.  These flavored bars have a reduced percentage of cocoa, so they don't have the same level of healthy ingredients as the pure bars.  However, with many of the flavors coming from natural, non-sugary sources, I don't have a problem enjoying them from time to time too.  Sea Salt, Chili, and Mint are my personal favorites.  The flavors come from including the natural ingredient directly into the chocolate, instead of using synthetic syrups.  For example, the Intense Orange bar contains dried orange bits.

The Lindt Excellence line can take care or your chocolate fix in it's preferred, healthful form.  Two squares are 20 grams, your recommended serving.  So, if you love chocolate and want to make it apart of your diet in a healthy way, I recommend keeping an eye out for Lindt's Excellence.  No doubt you'll find something to relish amongst the selection.

How My Bike Is Saving My Life

The 100th Tour de France begins tomorrow.  For cycling fans this is what the year comes down to.  For the rest of the world, this is the only professional race they have heard of.  Rightly so.  It's a doozy.  While I waited along with you for the Tour of Tours to begin, I've spent a lot of time over the last few days thinking not so much about this upcoming competition or even the professional level of road racing.  Instead, I've been thinking about my personal relationship with the bicycle.  As the great race begins, we all enter into the second half of 2013.  Halfway through the year seems like a good time to assess how far we've come, with an eye to where we're headed.  The bicycle and I have come a long way together and I'm not just talking the kilometers we've travelled.  Like any journey, the past six months have been about more than distance covered.

Last week, my husband and I traveled home to Akron, Ohio.  We had been looking forward to this trip for quite a long time, probably about 6 months actually.  A year had passed since we had been home.  A lot had happened in that year.  We experienced things and saw places we'd only ever read about.  It had been, without a doubt, an incredible 365 days.  But, despite all that, we were really looking forward to visiting the familiar again.  We couldn't wait to see friends and family.  We looked forward to all sorts of things about home, not the least of which being all the edible delights.  Of course, we were looking forward to shopping too.  I was going to go to Walgreens for Band-Aids at midnight, just because I could.  But, one of the things I was most looking forward to was my annual checkup with my general practitioner.  Yeah, I know that sounds really bizarre.  It's true, though.  I couldn't wait to sit down with my doctor and chat about how my health had changed since the big move to Lux.

Never thought this rather lifeless view of the old hometown would warm the cockles of my heart.

The past six months have been, well, all about the bike.  I was determined to be at or very darned near a place physically where I could ride all day, every day.  I wanted to become a cyclist.  Really.  Through that process I wanted to get in the best shape of my life.  Ever.  Why?

I don't want to jostle for position in a crit or suffer through a stage race.  While I love to watch the competition, to me participating in such an event is about as desirable as a root canal.  I don't even want a QOM on Strava.  Heck, when I was a kid I'd intentionally misspell words in spelling B's so I wouldn't have to go head to head with my friends in front of the school.  The way I see it, we have enough conflict with others in life without purposefully inducing it.  But that's just the way I feel.  I have complete respect for healthy competition and those who participate in it, especially in sport.  But competition is not why I climb on the bike every day.  So, why am I here?

I don't want to wake up one morning wondering how I let things go so far.  I don't want to be popping pills for conditions I could have avoided by just living a healthy lifestyle.  I don't want to be held back from things I want to do whenever I want to do them.  I don't want to look back on my life at some point and regret a wasted youth.  In short, I want to live.  I want to live my life until the moment I finally clock out of here.

I'd made some mistakes that if continued could derail those hopes.  I knew from experience that the bicycle was going to be my ticket to correcting those mistakes.  We all have something, some sort of physical activity that we can do and love doing.  We just need to figure out what it is and then run with it.  For some it's team sports, for others it's solo sports.  For some it's the joy of competing against our peers, for other's it's the joy of competing against ourselves that keeps us coming back.  I never had a doubt about which sport was my thing.  It has always been the bike.  Figuring out exactly how the bike would become my thing has been a longer decision.  The bicycle isn't really like any other piece of sports equipment out there.  It can be used in so many different ways and in so many different disciplines that sometimes finding the one that fits takes a while.  I started on the bike with an interest in transportation that branched into recreation.  Being in Lux simplified things significantly.  I've had the means to discover a real love for road cycling.  So, road cycling is what the bicycle has become for me.  Sure, I'll still take the FX to the store, but when I think of cycling it's me alone (or with my husband), crouched over the drops, on a road somewhere, pushing myself.  Pushing myself to live.

The process started on January 1st, like all good resolutions do, and despite travel and illness it has
continued (miraculously) right up to today.  So, I was pretty excited to see how things stacked up with my doctor's records from the end of 2011.  When the first thing she said to me was, "Whatever you're doing, keep on doing it," I knew things looked good.  Blood pressure, heart rate, and cholesterol numbers have dropped and are exactly (and in some cases better than) where she wants them to be.  But the big story here is weight.  I've lost 40 lbs since I saw her in December 2011.  Thirty of them were lost since January of this year.  That's a big deal.

Everything has its specific place
in my diet.  In espresso's case, it's pre or mid-ride.

Obviously, it isn't just riding my bike that has gotten me to this point.  I wanted to redesign my life around the bike, not just make the bike a part of my life.  To do that I had to change the way I approached what I put in my body and how I helped it recover.  I totally changed the way I ate, from something that usually was the highlight of my day to something that helped me with what was now the highlight of the day- my ride.  High fat, high cholesterol foods weren't going to do me many favors on the bike, so they got reduced on the roster in favor of lean proteins, healthy carbs and other foods that are more efficient fuels.  Cheese, for example, while being one of my most appreciated foods had to be approached differently.  I wasn't going to cut it out all together (no need to be crazy), but I made it something I could enjoy more by giving it a different status in my diet- a special treat to be savored and appreciated, not tossed down without a second thought.  Beer had to be approached differently too.  Once again, I wasn't going to stop drinking it.  I was going to drink it differently.  Instead of going for a local pilsner, I only have beer when there's something available I haven't tried yet or I really like.  If a place doesn't have anything that meets my standards, I'll go for the water instead.  I'd rather wait for something more interesting.  Beer, in fact, is an excellent recovery drink.  So, after some of my more long and hot (there was a week here of proper summer temps) Womens 100 training rides, I'd reward myself with a small beer as a recovery aid.  Truth be told, I didn't cut anything out of my diet completely.  I didn't go vegetarian, paleo, carb free, or sugar free.  I didn't hold back on vacations either.  I use foods for how they can benefit me in my goal to be a cyclist.  Pretty much all foods can help in that process as long as they're used correctly, even bacon can have a role.

Recovery became extremely important too.  I made sure not to go overboard with the cycling, which can be hard to do when you really love it.  I listened to my body.  If something was hurting, I'd back off, do what needed to be done so it could heal, then figure out how to avoid the pain coming back in the future.  I made sure to get plenty of sleep.  I'd shape my meals around fuel and recovery, by eating things before my ride that will help my ride and eating certain things afterwards to help my muscles recover and heal.

I also started noticing some unexpected side-effects.  Cycling has given what could easily become a disjointed purposeless existence as an unemployed expat a focus.  Sure, I have my other interests and hobbies, but skipping out on photography for a few weeks isn't going to have a major negative impact on my health.  The bike keeps me on track.  It gets me up on time and in bed at a decent hour at night.  Additionally, there are mental health benefits to pedaling every day.  Something that they don't tell you in the expat brochure is that a majority of Americans struggle with being in Luxembourg for a long period of time.  Many end up on anti-depressants.  Why?  Well, it's probably for a number of reasons.  Luxembourg is not like the States.  I'm not saying it's a bad place, it's just very different and getting used to it can be hard to deal with.  The weather itself is no doubt a huge factor.  Thankfully, we come from a place in Northeast Ohio that's almost as overcast, but even the endless days of grey rain begin to take their toll on us.  Of course, it probably just comes down to living somewhere far from home, living a completely different lifestyle, and having to handle things you've never dealt with before.  You get lonely.  You get low.  But, at least for me, getting on the bike everyday has thus far combated that low feeling.  It's not just the known mental health benefits of daily exercise that have been there.  I think it has more to do with getting me out in this beautiful country.  During every ride there is a moment when I look up and say, "Wow, I can't believe I get to do this today.  Here.  I'm so incredibly blessed."  After those ride rides that totally kick my butt and then kick me when I'm down I can't help but think, "Europe is beating that crap out of me.  That's still pretty cool."

Have I met my goal of becoming a cyclist?  Yeah, I think so.  I certainly have the tan lines.  But, I have further to go.  That's the really cool thing about cycling.  There's always something else to look forward to.  The Womens 100 ride is next weekend.  When that's over, I'd like to keep up that level of riding to the winter.  When next year comes around, perhaps the goal will be doing 100 Miles instead of 100K.  Someday I want to get to a place with climbing that doesn't feel completely excruciating.   I'd like to look at almost any road, shrug, swing the leg over, clip in, and begin cranking those pedals with more excitement than trepidation.  But, I'd like a road to be out there somewhere that still holds a little dread.
 
Cuz, ya know, that's living.

Real Ale, Bathroom Graffiti, Buried Alleys, & Fajitas

We were standing at the customs desk trying to look as confident as possible while this portly and rather grumpy Belgian police officer decided our fate.  Would we be hearing the wonderful sound of a click and slam of the stamp that would let us return to our house or the fateful words "Please come with me" while being lead into some sterile security office to begin deportation proceedings?  He read over our papers, very slowly.  He looked at the passports again.  He looked at us.  Again.  We held our breath.  How did this happen?

Rewind a few days back.

Edinburgh was named Travel Destination of the Year at the Travel Awards last year and for good reason.  It's not a massive city.  With a centrally located train station, walkable and bikeable streets, unique attractions, lots of food and drink options, and citizens that may be some of the nicest people in Europe you really couldn't go wrong.

We spent last weekend in Edinburgh exploring nooks and crannies, most of which were food and beverage related.  So, you want to know what there is in Edinburgh that is worth risking deportation for?  Well, here you go.

Pubs.  Good pubs are the heart and soul of this city and there are plenty to choose from.  We had the pleasure of being pointed in the right direction by some locals so we were thankfully introduced to a couple of gems.  First off is The Wally Dug on Northumberland Street.  It's the perfect example for why you have to look below street level in Britain.  There are some great finds under the stairs.  The Wally Dug is one of them.  Most of the ales on tap are Belhaven, and there are some excellent selections from their stock.  They also have some craft cask ales available, which are certainly worth a taste.  Cask ales (as opposed to those served from kegs) are something special and not a brew you're going to find in very many places outside of the United Kingdom.  Unfiltered, unpasteurized, and served without additional nitrogen or carbon dioxide pressure, they're not going to taste quite like anything else.  Sometimes they come out a little warmer than you'd expect, and that's something to get used to.  But, with all the variety of ales to be had you're bound to find one or six that you enjoy.  I do love my Belgian brews, but, wow, it was nice to have a stout again!

If you happen to be in Old Town, then another great option (and this one is my favorite) is the Jolly Judge tucked in, up and around James Court, one of the famous closes or alleyways.  It's another one of those places under the stairs, with a warm fire and an excellent selection of cask ales, ciders, and whiskies.  The atmosphere is spot on.  It was awfully tempting to spend the day there.  That's just two places.  There were several others that were just as lovely.  Milnes Bar, one of the Taylor Walker pubs, comes to mind as well.  Wherever you end up grabbing a pint, I'm pretty certain you'll discover one commonality (besides the beautiful ales).  The folks that tend bar in Edinburgh really are a wonderful lot.  They're happy to have you in their establishment, they'll serve you with a smile, and will go out of their way to make recommendations if you need one.  Pubs in Edinburgh are the way pubs are supposed to be.

Ok, if you're not into ales or whiskies then a coffee shop may be a better choice.  The Elephant House is probably one of the most famous coffee shops in the world.  To be honest, I hadn't heard of it.  But, Harry Potter fans probably have.  Apparently, this is the spot where J.K. Rowling penned a good portion of her novels.  While the coffee is pretty good, the pastries look irresistible, and the atmosphere is unique, the bathrooms are the real draw.  No, seriously.  Normally, when I step into a restroom and see the walls have been covered (and I mean COVERED) in graffiti I feel like I'll need to wash my hands twice.  At least.  But, after glancing around I realized that it wasn't vulgarities and phone numbers scrawled on the walls, but beautiful and sweet messages of thanks from all over the world for lives enriched by literature.  It's worth a peek.

Now, Edinburgh has lots to see and do.  Capital cities are like that.  There are all sorts of museums.  Museums on whisky, museums on weaving, museums on torture.  Of course, there's also the giant castle sitting on top of an extinct volcano smack dab in the middle of everything.  I'm sure they're all fascinating, but you'd need more than a weekend to see every attraction.  One thing we did get in, which I highly recommend, is definitely one of the most unique spots I've ever visited.

The Real Mary King's Close tour takes visitors underneath modern day Old Town (yeah, I know that sounds confusing).  This tour isn't your typical history tour.  You actually go underneath the city into the old house foundations and actual streets that were built over during the construction of the Royal Exchange.  It's a bit complicated to explain, but basically when they decided to build the Exchange they determined it would save time, money, and materials just to level off the buildings that were already there and use their foundations as the foundations for the Exchange.  Most of these underground spaces were filled in or can't be accessed, but there is a section that was reopened to the public in 2003 that provides a space to explain 15th and 16th Century life in Edinburgh.  While the tour has its cheesy moments, ok, it has a lot of cheesy moments, it is quite fascinating to walk through streets trapped in time.  It isn't something for everyone.  The tour is dark, dusty, and a bit tricky to maneuver.  But, in my opinion it's worth checking out.  You won't find something like it anywhere else.  Huge thanks to the friends that led us down there.

Last but not least, food.  You're going to think I'm nuts.  Maybe it's the fact I haven't encountered a respectable bowl of salsa in a year, but in all seriousness take a break from the burgers, fish & chips, and haggis and head over to Rose Street for some Mexican at Miro's Cantina.  Scottish Mexican food may seem like the most bizarre idea ever, but there isn't a hint of Scotland about the place (save some of the servers).  The nachos are to die for.  There isn't a drop of freakishly liquid fluorescent orange cheese sauce anywhere.  The fajitas, well, it could be my flavor starved palate talking, but they were the best I've had anywhere.  Those alone were worth risking deportation for.  I will hold on to that memory for a long time.

So, obviously, we did make it back to our house free and clear, not that I wouldn't make telling you about Scottish Mexican food a priority while sitting in a Belgian prison.  Turns out that if one guy in the  Luxembourg foreign residency office gets sick then all of us who depend on the necessary paperwork are up a creek.  Thankfully, calls were made and the suspicious looking Americans were stamped through with an extra glare thrown in.  Oh well, even if things hadn't turned out, it would be difficult to regret those fajitas.

I can see why Edinburgh gets such rave reviews.  There are few places that live up to the hype, but the capital of Scotland definitely meets and exceeds expectations.  My only regret is that we didn't have more time.  Hopefully, we'll be able to make it back (legally) some day to see even more of this fabulous old city.  Edinburgh has a great deal to offer the tourist and if you're heading to the UK, please put it at the top of your list.  You won't be disappointed.

Flavor Aide

You know, sometimes it really is about the little things.  The expat journey doesn't end with unpacking the last box in the new place, or getting the residency cards, or finally ordering dinner without getting a confused look from the server in return.  It's not over even when the new place feels like home.  It probably won't be over even when everything and everyone is right back where we started.  Part of the journey is discovering, over time, that stuff from home that you took for granted is suddenly and deeply missed.

Over the past eight or so months, we've become slightly obsessed with condiments.  Why?  Well, during the first few months the local cuisine was new and exciting, but after about 6 months or so the novelty wore off and the palate became a bit fatigued.  While nearly everything is covered in some sort of sauce- poivre, béarnaise, provencal, moutard, to our American palates these sauces don't really taste like, well, anything.  No salt, no sweet, no flavor.  Nothing.  Even the foods at Chinese, Indian, or Thai restaurants end up tasting a bit bland.

Enter the condiments.  Sriracha.  Sweet Chili.  Curry.  Chipotle Tobasco.  Whip out a bottle of one of these, dash some on the Szechuan Chicken, eggs, really anything and Booya!  We've got some flavor, people!  Of course, we're always on the hunt for something new, something different.  Perhaps a chutney or, hmmm, a relish?  We even started making our own stuff.  Sriracha Buffalo.  Barbecue.  Honey Mustard.

Well, imagine our delight when we happened to stumble upon a whole line of some delicious jellies, jams, and sauces at the British and American import shop in Strassen, Luxembourg.  They've singlehandedly revitalized breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Ladies and gentlemen, allow me to introduce Cottage Delights.  Cottage Delights is a producer and distributor of snacks, condiments, sauces, chutneys, relishes, marinades, desserts, teas and a boat load of other things out of Staffordshire.  While most of those things haven't ended up in Luxembourg, we've been trying just about everything that has.  So far, it's all been really tasty.

My personal favorite, which I try to work into as many meals as possible, is the Habanero Chilli Sauce.  It's very similar to BBQ Sauce but with a little more smoke, sweet, and spice.  It goes great on chicken, beef, burgers, eggs, and even sandwiches.   The Jalapeño Ginger Jam is another delicious sandwich topper.  The Chillililli mustard has made smoked meats a whole new experience, and their chutneys (both sweet and savory) go excellently with the fine regional cheeses.  All the products are have the same quality that we were used to from similar companies from Ohio.  While I don't sneak them into restaurants, they do make a daily appearance on our table at home.

The downside is these products are currently only available in the UK.  So, great news for all those in Britain!  I'm just thankful some thoughtful person has imported some to Luxembourg.  For a couple of people that love some heat, some smoke, hot peppers, and anything else with a flavorful kick, these little bottles of deliciousness have been lifesavers.  Its a relief to know I won't have to haul a suitcase full of sauces back from our next trip home.  Cottage Delights does just fine.

The Best Meal You'll Have in a Hospital

Today, I'm going to tell you about the best meal I've had in a year, heck, probably longer.  You're thinking, "Great, yet another blog post and photo album on someone's dinner that I don't care about."  More than likely, yes, but I'm going to tell you anyway.  It was that incredible.

It takes more than good food and drink to make a meal.  The truly excellent and memorable dining experience is more than what's on the plate.  The service, ambiance, pace, and the company are what make a great night out.

While there don't miss the beautiful hat rack and cane
stand.  A gorgeous work of art.

Last weekend, we stumbled upon a gem of restaurant in the Belgian Ardennes.  The town of Saint Hubert doesn't have too much to offer in the way of dining.  You can get your usual Italian, a kebab, and some overpriced raclette, but just outside the main center there is an institutional looking building that serves up seasonal dishes that won't disappoint.  Ann and Hans run L'Ancien Hopital at 23 Rue de la Fontaine, a restaurant and hotel in a renovated, you guessed it, old hospital.  The name is all that would suggest its history because there is no hint of "hospital" about the place.  Upon entering, guests with headwear are invited to hang them on an impressive rack of antlers.  What's not to love about that?  In the winter, you can sit by the fire and enjoy a house aperitif or a fine Belgian beer (two Trappists- Orval and nearby Rochefort are available) as you peruse the menu.  Then there's the amuse-bouche composed of some seasonal selections.  In the winter, you may be served some wild boar and warm spiced yellow beet juice.  Afterwards, you're off to your table and it's time to enjoy the main event, one that will in all likelihood take a few hours.  It's worth it.  Seasonal entrees or soups are next, accompanied by housemade fresh bread that will be replenished throughout the evening.  The mains are next on the list and you may have trouble deciding between dishes of fresh fish, beef, veal, Guinea fowl or perhaps they will have pheasant and venison.  You never know as the menu changes regularly.  That is the beauty of the place.  You never have to eat the same thing twice and each new creation is a pleasure for the senses.  I went with the trio of beef fillets and, sigh, I can't tell you how lovely it was to eat a perfectly cooked Black Angus steak.  It's been ages since I've had a properly seasoned one.  It tasted just as good as those at home, maybe better.  But, the meal doesn't end there, folks.  Oh no.  If you're willing to pay a little extra (you should) you can indulge in the cheese board.  And, this is no ordinary cheese board.

We were presented with seven beautiful pasteurized and unpasteurized cheeses from France, Scotland, The Swiss Alps,  and the Netherlands.  Each one was an incredible shock of flavor, but the one I will never forget was the truffle cheese from France.  In a word, splendid.  The Swiss cheese had a such a dusty thick rind you could practically taste the Alpine barn it had aged in.  They get their cheeses direct from Michel Van Tricht & Son, named by the Wall Street Journal as the best cheese shop in all of Europe.  If they're supplying cheese to the Belgian royal family, you know it has to be good.  And it is.  It is.  

Room must be saved for the dessert and a little coffee.  Beware of the Chocolate Mousse Bomb.  That sucker will take even the seasoned chocoholic to task.  I still haven't recovered.

f you happen to be around the Belgian Ardennes on a cycle or trekking tour please go out of your way to make some reservations at L'Ancien Hopital.  Bring your friends, sit back, relax, and prepare to experience an event.  Hans will take good care of you in Dutch, French, or English and Ann will make sure there's always a fresh slice of bread on your plate.  With amazing food, great service, and reasonable prices you will not be disappointed.  I know we will be back again and again.

That Relish

www.wikipedia.org

Cranberry Relish.

For years and years, it has appeared on our Thanksgiving table.  For years and years, it sat untouched.  For some reason it had to be there despite the fact no one sitting around the table particularly cared for it.  But, its presence was seemingly just as important as the turkey, stuffing, and sweet potatoes.

The cranberry, of course, is synonymous with New England culture.  The American Indians had been using cranberries for food, medicine, and even dye throughout eastern North America.  They introduced them to the hapless English settlers at Plymouth Colony.  Supposedly, cranberries have been gracing Thanksgiving tables ever since.  Cranberry cultivation became an important contributor to the economy in modern day Massachusetts and other parts of the United States where they grow in abundance.  If you ever have a chance to see a cranberry harvest, it is quite the sight.  One of my memories from my years working in Plymouth, MA was stopping by the Ocean Spray store on the waterfront for a cranberry something and having a taste of cranberry wine at the local wine shop.  Cranberries, apparently, are just as important to the local economy as the Pilgrims themselves.  Today, of course, cranberries have been named members of the power food club, due to their potential benefits for urinary tract health.  Cranberries and cranberry juice can be found year round, and make frequent appearance in "health food" products and recipes.

Ok, now back to the relish.  You can buy it in a can, you can buy it in a jar.  You can buy the raw ingredients to make it yourself and add another step to your Thanksgiving preparations.  This year, we picked up a jar of Ocean Spray relish at the British specialty shop down in Capellen.  As usual, sit sat mostly untouched in its bowl.  It was there, that's all that matters.  It wouldn't have been a proper Thanksgiving feast without it, you know.

There was one year we decided to go a little crazy by revisiting the cranberry relish issue.  My husband made "Mama Stamberg's Cranberry Relish" which he heard about on NPR.  While the mixture of fresh cranberries, onion, sour cream, and horseradish may sound like the worst concoction of a condiment to ever appear on a holiday table, let me tell you, it beats the pants off of those abhorrent slices of jelly from the can.  Don't believe me?  Well, according to NPR it's been a popular topic on the airwaves since first introduced to the American public in 1971.  Martha Stewart and, uh, Coolio both approve, so it's worth a shot, right?

Anyway, whatever your opinion on the infamous cranberry relish, there's one thing we can agree on.  This time of year can be full of activities and traditions we may not be particularly fond of- Black Friday, sitting down to dinner with those people (we all have them), untangling Christmas lights, having to listen to Santa Baby one too many times, trying to figure out what present to buy Uncle Herb (the man without a single interest or hobby) yet again, seeing the neighbors have purchased another tacky addition to their inflatable decoration collection, elbowing through the crowds in the store on December 23rd to get that one thing you forgot the other day, and cranberry relish.

Nevertheless, despite all the hassle, there's something special about the holiday season.  No matter how jaded we get, there's a moment somewhere along the way that gives us the warm fuzzies.  It might be sitting back and enjoying the decorations in all their lit and untangled glory, hearing Bing Crosby's White Christmas on the radio, Mom's stuffing, the smell of fresh cut pine, egg nog, mulled wine, Great Lakes Christmas Ale, holiday edition coffee, Rankin-Bass Christmas specials, the first snowfall, Linus reading from Luke in A Charlie Brown Christmas, a fire on the hearth, or the look on someone's face when they open their gift.  There's always something that get's you.  That's the moment when all the other stuff about the holidays doesn't matter, it's that feeling we look forward to.  It makes the crap worth it.

Whether the big day is St. Nicholas Day, Feast of the Immaculate Conception, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, St. Stephen's Day, Boxing Day, or New Year's Eve, when you find yourself in that moment enjoy every minute.  These times are meant to be savored.

So, give in, celebrate, pass the relish, and have a very happy holiday!

Falling Rocks, Cheese, and Snow

When one thinks of the famous Bernese Alps, the mind often wanders to images straight out of Heidi- pastures of wildflowers, babbling brooks, and small villages with snow covered peaks towering above it all.  The fantasy, in all truthfulness, is not too far from reality.  The only difference being that much of the population in the large towns of this idyllic area are the transient tourists from Asia, Britain, and the Americas coming to backpack, ski, base jump, and ride the railways and cables up to the mountain tops.  With the motley ambiance of camera clicks and incoherent chattering in a dozen languages, one may forget that the perfection of the scenery meeting the eyes is completely legitimate and not a fabricated theme park of rebar and plaster.

Do not despair, however, you need not travel far to escape the bustling chaos of the resort towns.  The "real" Bernese Alps are steps away.  Yes, Virginia, there is still a corner here and there that has not completely succumbed to modern progress.  You can still climb a mountain (yes, an actual mountain with a name) all morning and arrive in a village where the economy is still based on cattle raising and cheese making.  The villagers are not paid to dress up in felt costumes and talk to bus loads of Japanese and American tourists.  They're going about their lives just as they have done for a thousand years.  Sure, modern conveniences are there and they will not stick their noses up at an opportunity to make a little money operating ski lifts in the winter, but the bottom line is what it has always been.  Life changes slowly in the Bernese Alps, away from the resort towns of Interlaken and Grindelwald.  They still celebrate the seasonal cattle drive to the high pastures in the spring and their return to the lower altitudes in the Fall with ceremonial trychel ringing.  They still make the cheese the same way their great-great-great grandfather did and they still sell it to passersby from their windowsills.

There is much local pride for this famous Alpkäse.  Rumor has it that true Alpkäse connoisseurs can tell on what wildflowers and what pasture the cattle grazed just from its flavor.  While Alpkäse in general is firm, creamy cheese with a thick rind, each village has its own unique cheese, with a flavor and texture all its own.  While you can purchase the cheese direct from the maker, nearly every village has its own cheese shop where you can buy many of the regional varieties.  That is the place to hit, for the proprietress will be happy to slice off some samples for you before you make your final selection.  The choice may not be as easy as it seems.  Some cheeses are fairly young with a soft flavor, while others have been aging in a shed somewhere for a few years.  The smell alone could cause a stagger back.  We sampled a bit from a Lauterbrunnen shop across from the train station and decided that our personal favorite was the cheese produced right there in Lauterbrunnen itself, instead of the other regional cheeses in stock.  Perfectly mild and buttery, it paired nicely with some alp sausage and beer.

If you're concerned all that cheese consuming will slow you down, have no fear.  You cannot go into the Bernese Alps and not partake in some outdoor activity.  This land is made for it.  Whether it's skiing, snowboarding or mountain climbing in the winter or backpacking and mountain biking in the summer, the Bernese Alps will provide everything you need to get the blood pumping.  No matter the fitness level, with all the rail and cable service from town to town no gradient can hold you back.  Step off the valley floors and into the lofty heights above.  It is perfectly acceptable to let your jaw drop.

Leave the empty trappings of the tourist towns with their Hooters Bars, shiny resorts, knife and watch shops, and helicopter tours.  Take a chance and turn onto a trail to places unknown.  Follow a waterfall to its source.  Hear the rumble of a distant avalanche high above on the glacier covered peaks where men have climbed to success or tragic failure with hemp ropes and homemade crampons.  Hear the histories of those legendary peaks from the crusty old herders in stocking caps who've climbed them during their glorious youth.  Breathe in the crisp Alpine air and feel alive again.  No noise except the bells around the necks of countless cows.  No congestion except the sheep crossing the mountain roads.  No smog, just the low hanging clouds in the cold mornings.  The bus loads of gawking and stumbling tourists can be left behind quickly and easily, if you're willing to take a chance.

While the region is happy to welcome visitors from all over the world coming to enjoy all it has to offer, it still manages to remain true to itself.  If you're willing to wander, you'll see it.  It may sting a little.  The calves may burn.  But, I guarantee it is worth the pain.  It is worth every second.

Getting That Perfect Cup At Home

Coffee.  You either love it or you hate it.  I used to be a hater, until one fateful overnight drive from Boston.  The only thing that could keep us going were truly miserable cups o' joe out of a vending machine.  When you start at the bottom, you can only go up.  It took a genuine cup a day later to make it official, I was converted.  I quickly progressed from coffee with sugar and milk, to straight black, the stronger the better.  The Mr. also prefers his black and bold, but with a couple lumps.

It wasn't until we moved here that we were properly introduced to what would become the coffee we have always been subconsciously searching for.  Sure, obviously we have espresso in the United States but with all the macchiatos, spiced lattes, mochas, and sugar bomb Frappuccinos the good stuff doesn't get a lot of screen time.  For most people, it's a bit of a fringe drink.  Very Euro.  Very small.  Too strong.  Not a proper cup of coffee.  For me, it was love.  And it wasn't only the espressos, but even the "standard" pressure brewed coffees were a revelation.  I'd rather have a small, perfectly smooth and strong cup, than a big mug of filtered Joe any day. It didn't take long to determine who pulled the best espressos in town.  Our cafe is a great place to grab a cold beer and watch the people walk by, but their espressos were nearly a quarter grit.  The Chinese restaurant around the corner, however, pulls a brilliant shot and they also serve them with my favorite biscuits.  Before long, having an espresso or a coffee after dinner at a restaurant became as necessary as dessert.  We played with the idea of picking up an espresso machine for home since going out is a rarity, but at nearly 600€ a pop it looked like our fine coffee drinking would be reserved for a night out or a mid or post ride stop at a cafe.

All that changed last Friday night when we went to a friend's house.  After a delicious and relaxed dinner of raclette and dessert of chocolate cake, she offered us some coffee.  That's when we learned about Nespresso.  We didn't know anything about Nespresso.  We figured that it was something like a Keurig machine, that has captured the hearts of so many people back home.  Well, like we say here in Luxembourg, nee! (pronounced "nay", not "ni" as in the Knights Who Say).  Nespresso is a whole nuther animal altogether.  It takes the same concept of pre-measure and packaged servings of finely ground coffee, but brews them under high pressure instead of with the filtration method.  What you get is the capability of having a lungo or espresso at home without the cost and labor of a traditional machine.  All you do is pop one of the nifty capsules in the machine, choose what serving size you want, push the button, and Bam!- a few seconds later you have a perfect cup of espresso, complete with the rich crema foam.  Sure, coffee purists may scoff at such a method, but in my opinion we're not all interested in becoming baristas.  We just want a delicious cup of espresso without the time, hassle and expense.  There are many different machines you can choose from that come in a variety of colors and price ranges and have different capabilities.  The highest priced machine is just a hair cheaper than a tradition espresso machine, but also automatically brews cappuccinos.  It will even pre-warm your cup for you. Lower priced models have fewer bells and whistles, but many still warm milk for cappuccinos and lattes. 

They have 16 different varieties of fair trade coffee.  Five to six grams of the finely ground coffee are packaged in the aluminum Grand Crus, which are air tight and designed for a perfect short pour or long pour espresso, depending on the variety.  When the capsule is clamped into the machine, it is perforated and the super heated water is forced through with high pressure.  When the pouring is finished, opening the machine releases the spent capsule and the process is complete.  It takes at most 4 minutes including the time for the machine to heat the water.

There are Nespresso Boutiques all over Europe and the machines are sold in the States at many stores like Macy's and Crate & Barrel.  For those who do not live near a boutique, such as anyone in Northeast Ohio, there is a club from which members can order the capsules online to be delivered at home and receive other benefits such as coupons and seasonal promotions.  They are still rather new to the market in the States, but over time the brand is hoping to expand across the Atlantic.  Of course, espresso at home may still be too fringe for the American crowd.

If you're wondering what happens to all those aluminum capsules, that is really up to the consumer.  Nespresso makes recycling them a very easy process.  They will give you free bags to collect your spent capsules, which can either be dropped off at any Kiala collection point (there are 40 in Luxembourg alone), returned to one of the Nespresso Boutique shops, or handed to the delivery person who is dropping off your next order.  There's really no reason why you can't participate in the recycling process.  More information on the company's environmental policies can be found here.

Is the Nespresso thing for the yuppie crowd, the latte liberals?  Yeah, I'd say so.  When you walk into one of those boutiques everyone is dressed in designer suits and sipping samples at the bar while talking about global finance.  Well... that probably has something to do with being in Lux City.  But, the salesperson will talk about the design of the machines, instead of their functions.  The coffees are described as luxurious, sultry, and sophisticated.  It's definitely marketed as a status appliance; not gonna lie.  But here's the thing, these machines are for people who enjoy espresso and want an easy way to have a nice cup with their favorite biscuit at home.  Espresso isn't something you pour into your travel mug and gulp in the car on the way to work.  It's a drink to be enjoyed over conversation, after a good meal or a long bike ride.  Of course, the cycling crowd has a special affinity for fine coffee.  There's something we love about pausing halfway or finishing a ride with the perfect cup.  For those who's only option is the corner Starbucks or the place that serves every cup with .5cm of grounds in the bottom, investing in a Nespresso may be the way to go.  Anyway, where better to enjoy your well earned java than at your own table ?

At the risk of being labeled a snob, I say you get what you pay for and sometimes it's worth paying a little extra for something you relish.

Cracking Open Some Tastiness In Vianden

One Sunday every October there's a big hoopla in the picture postcard town of Vianden.  People from all over park anywhere they can wedge their Audis and shuffle down the hill all for the sheer purpose of celebrating walnuts.  Yep, walnuts.

At first glance, it may seem hard to believe that walnuts are worth celebrating.  Despite their nutritional benefits, I wouldn't put the walnut is at the top of the shindig worthy list.  I mean, pistachios, sure, and cashews most definitely, but walnuts? Eh.  But, walnuts have a special place in the hearts of Vianden and every year you get a whole Sunday all about 'em.  Despite any doubts one may have about a walnut festival, I promise that if you give it a chance you may find yourself having a new found appreciation for the Nutcracker's victuals.

Ok, no, the music isn't good.  Don't go for the music.

The food is where it's at.

They take the lowly walnut and turn them into some pretty delicious things.  There's walnut cakes and there's walnut candies, and pâté, and nougat, and sausages, and breads.  The breads in particular are something else.  You can buy a loaf of bread the size of a small child.  There are countless varieties of sausages also made with walnut bits, some as tall as you and some molded into the shape of a pig.  Then, there are the beverages.

Every single stall, and there are countless stalls, sells walnut brandys and liqueurs.  The bottles come in a variety of shapes and sizes.  You can buy it in a half meter pipe or you can buy it in a motorcycle.  It's stuff one sips after a nice meal, not something you dump into the hip flask.  But, as the festival revs up that's exactly what some folks do and things can get pretty rowdy.  So, the festival shuts down at the rather early hour of 7pm.  That's probably for the best.  I'd say grab your walnut provisions and head out long before to beat the traffic.  It's a lot easier to climb back up the hill without cars, shuttle buses, and staggering revelers to deal with.

The festival itself isn't really the draw, it's what you can buy there that is worth the hike and the crowds.  So, next October if you're in the area, I'd recommend popping down to Vianden to pick up some nut-tastic treats.  They're something unique to the region and the season and definitely worth giving a try.

While the walnuts themselves aren't anything to write home about, the other treats at the festival are worth the trip.

Alleys, Bones, and Stones in Ghent

When we decided that a few days in Belgium was in order, the debate came down to where we would spend our time after Brussels- Bruges, the place all the guidebooks raved about, or Ghent its less popular sibling.  The fact that everyone knows about Bruges led us to think the magic could be found in Ghent.  We weren't disappointed.

To say Ghent is old, is to make a gross understatement.  People have been living there on the banks of the Scheldt and Lys rivers since the Stone Age.  Speaking of stones, you'll find quite a few in old Ghent, the heart of the Medieval town out of which grew the largest modern city in East Flanders.  It is the sheer stoniness of the medieval architecture that hits you.  Big rocks are piled on big rocks to create imposing structures like Gravensteen Castle and St. Bavo Cathedral.  The architects of Ghent certainly had something to say when they designed those babies.  "We're the richest wool trading city in Flanders, and we're gonna flaunt it."

Ghent was so big and wealthy it had more markets than could be contained in one square, so they built a few squares.  What you get is the largest car free pedestrian zone in Belgium.  There are worse places to spend the day.

Now, you will find some tourists about, not nearly as many as there are strolling around Brussels or Bruges, but they're there.  With tourists come the usual types of places to grab a bite.  But, I encourage, no, I implore you to take a step outside the box and eat at this wonderful little rib joint, Spare Rib Caffee, just around the corner from Gravensteen Castle on Krannlei.  I first heard about Spare Rib Caffee from Heidi Swift in her article 78 Hours in Ghent from Issue 12 of Peloton Magazine.  When Swift recommends something, you take note.  After all, this is a woman that races cyclocross, goes on solo bike tours for fun, loves a good whiskey, and just finished Reve Tour.

It's not a big place and reservations are a must.  We opted for an early dinner at 7:00pm and the other tables were already full.  Here's the deal:  This is a rib place.  So, don't come here and order the fish brochette or some other wimpy dish you can get at any old place in town.  You order the ribs with the full knowledge that this is all you can eat ribs that come with a big golden bowl of frites and a salad and 5-6 other sauces.  The thing about these ribs, though, is that they're perfectly seasoned in their dry rub so you don't need those other sauces.  But, that unidentified house sauce in the refurbed Heinz bottle is the way to go.  The mayonnaise ones go nicely on the frites.  You'll start out with a full rack and then move on in increments of half racks.  For heanven's sake, don't stop at one rack.  Of course, no meal in any part of Belgium is complete without the proper beer.  I'd go with a Dubbel or a Tripel, maybe something along the smokier line to complement the meat.  However, perhaps your best choice is a Gulden Draak, the dark and heavy brew in the white bottle named for the weathervane on top of Ghent's belfry.  It all goes together nicely.  While your fellow dinners may be delicately nibbling their bones with a knife and fork, you have my permission to attack those suckers like their meant to be eaten- in the hands.

Afterwards, since there better not be any room for dessert, have another stroll through town.  The kids from the university will be hanging out along the river sharing ice creams.  Someone may be playing music somewhere.  Don't hesitate to duck down the Werregarenstraat alley.  This is the only street in town where graffiti is legal and encourgaged.  It's quite a sight.  Those big old building blocks of the cathedrals, town hall, and belfry look particularly nice lit from below.  All the tourists will be gone now, and this is the chance to see some of the real Ghent.  You may find you have a new love.