Alleys, Bones, and Stones in Ghent

When we decided that a few days in Belgium was in order, the debate came down to where we would spend our time after Brussels- Bruges, the place all the guidebooks raved about, or Ghent its less popular sibling.  The fact that everyone knows about Bruges led us to think the magic could be found in Ghent.  We weren't disappointed.

To say Ghent is old, is to make a gross understatement.  People have been living there on the banks of the Scheldt and Lys rivers since the Stone Age.  Speaking of stones, you'll find quite a few in old Ghent, the heart of the Medieval town out of which grew the largest modern city in East Flanders.  It is the sheer stoniness of the medieval architecture that hits you.  Big rocks are piled on big rocks to create imposing structures like Gravensteen Castle and St. Bavo Cathedral.  The architects of Ghent certainly had something to say when they designed those babies.  "We're the richest wool trading city in Flanders, and we're gonna flaunt it."

Ghent was so big and wealthy it had more markets than could be contained in one square, so they built a few squares.  What you get is the largest car free pedestrian zone in Belgium.  There are worse places to spend the day.

Now, you will find some tourists about, not nearly as many as there are strolling around Brussels or Bruges, but they're there.  With tourists come the usual types of places to grab a bite.  But, I encourage, no, I implore you to take a step outside the box and eat at this wonderful little rib joint, Spare Rib Caffee, just around the corner from Gravensteen Castle on Krannlei.  I first heard about Spare Rib Caffee from Heidi Swift in her article 78 Hours in Ghent from Issue 12 of Peloton Magazine.  When Swift recommends something, you take note.  After all, this is a woman that races cyclocross, goes on solo bike tours for fun, loves a good whiskey, and just finished Reve Tour.

It's not a big place and reservations are a must.  We opted for an early dinner at 7:00pm and the other tables were already full.  Here's the deal:  This is a rib place.  So, don't come here and order the fish brochette or some other wimpy dish you can get at any old place in town.  You order the ribs with the full knowledge that this is all you can eat ribs that come with a big golden bowl of frites and a salad and 5-6 other sauces.  The thing about these ribs, though, is that they're perfectly seasoned in their dry rub so you don't need those other sauces.  But, that unidentified house sauce in the refurbed Heinz bottle is the way to go.  The mayonnaise ones go nicely on the frites.  You'll start out with a full rack and then move on in increments of half racks.  For heanven's sake, don't stop at one rack.  Of course, no meal in any part of Belgium is complete without the proper beer.  I'd go with a Dubbel or a Tripel, maybe something along the smokier line to complement the meat.  However, perhaps your best choice is a Gulden Draak, the dark and heavy brew in the white bottle named for the weathervane on top of Ghent's belfry.  It all goes together nicely.  While your fellow dinners may be delicately nibbling their bones with a knife and fork, you have my permission to attack those suckers like their meant to be eaten- in the hands.

Afterwards, since there better not be any room for dessert, have another stroll through town.  The kids from the university will be hanging out along the river sharing ice creams.  Someone may be playing music somewhere.  Don't hesitate to duck down the Werregarenstraat alley.  This is the only street in town where graffiti is legal and encourgaged.  It's quite a sight.  Those big old building blocks of the cathedrals, town hall, and belfry look particularly nice lit from below.  All the tourists will be gone now, and this is the chance to see some of the real Ghent.  You may find you have a new love.