The road wasn't really a road. It was the type of two track we used to enjoy plowing up in our Wrangler back in the day. By the looks of things, nothing of that size had come through this way in quite some time, just people, dogs, and the occasional mountain bike. We were on foot. We had to be on foot this time. I didn't want to miss a single tree, leaf, rock, or mud puddle. We were following someone, someone I never knew or met. He had been long gone by the time I showed up on earth, but he is a part of who I am nevertheless. Life has a funny way of working out. Of all the places to find him, I never thought it would be here, walking through the mud up a hill that doesn't have a name to a village that could barely be labeled as such to see a view that really isn't that incredible compared to others we've seen. Then again, it was the most incredible of all.
It was a couple of days into the last real battle his Infantry division would see during The War. They had just crossed over the Main River that day and were techincally behind the Nazi lines. The Nazis weren't there, however, they had all been called into the city of Aschaffenburg, about 15km down river. It was the end of March 1945 and the war in Europe would be over in little more than a month. Of course, he didn't know that, even though up until this point they had met with little resistance from the Nazi forces. But, for some inexplicable reason they were holding Aschaffenburg with surprising resilience. His Field Artillery Battalion traveled in support of an infantry regiment assigned to attacking the city from the south. So, here they were up on the top of an insignificant hill preparing to fire the big guns at one of the final military strongholds of the Nazis.
He'd landed in North Africa in June 1943, in July he was in the invasion of Sicily, and in September he and his division invaded Salerno. In January of 1944, his division was ordered to invade
behind the Gustav Line at Anzio. They'd been dug in during that terrible siege for four months. Next, in August, they landed in Southern France to begin the advance towards Germany. They crossed the Belfort Gap, the Moselle River, the Mortagne River, and the Zintzel River, before they finally broke through the Siegfried Line on March 17, 1945. By now, most of his friends that had landed with him in Africa had been killed. But, after meeting little resistance since France, the men of his division began to think that they may make it home. He had begun to make plans about life after the War. He and his best friend Eddie had served together in the same Battery since basic training. They talked about opening a car dealership back in New Jersey. He'd written his fiancée about setting up the guest room for Eddie so he'd have a place to crash in a city that would be flooded with returning troops. All they had to do was stay alive and wait for the fall of Berlin, which as this rate wouldn't be too far off. Perhaps, if they were lucky, they'd get out of being sent to the Pacific. But, plans change and war is unpredictable.
They crossed the Rhine on March 26th. It was during that historic crossing that Eddie had been shot and killed right next to him. It was a cruel twist of fate. So cruel, he could barely bring himself to write home about it. All he could say was to forget setting up the guest room. Eddie wasn't coming home. Now, here he was on this stupid hill a few days later preparing to bombard a city that for some reason just refused to accept the obvious and surrender. Many of the men hadn't felt this low since Anzio. More than likely, this was the worst he'd ever felt. They'd hit that city with artillery for several more days to come. The southern assault worked and the line was broken, but still the soldiers holding Ascaffenburg refused to give in. By the end of the battle the American infantrymen were fighting hand to hand, from house to house with not only soldiers but civilians who answered the edict from Berlin to fight for the Fatherland to the death. The battle lasted ten days. When the city was surrendered on April 3rd, it was barely anything more than a rubble heap. By then he was just outside of the city itself and the big guns were finally silent. The massive Schloss Johannisberg was in ruins. To the him and his fellow soldiers, it couldn't have seemed like anything more than a waste. Too many people had died for nothing more than the twisted ideology of psychotic tyrants.
They didn't stay in these parts long. They moved on to Nuremburg next and on April 29 members of his division liberated the Dachau Concentration Camp. Two days later they captured Münich. They'd be there on V-E Day and mercifully were spared that inevitable removal to the Pacific when Japan surrendered in August. He'd get to go home after all. He married his fiancée shortly after he returned. They had two children. He went to college and would go on to open that car dealership. But, he never really came back from Europe. The man who left for the War in 1943 was not the man who came back to New Jersey in '45. He would still talk to anyone he met on the street, he was still unfailingly kind, he still had a sense of humor. But, he had demons too, demons he picked up in Sicily, Salerno, Anzio, France, and a particularly nasty one that showed up while crossing the Rhine. They kept him distant from his loved ones, they kept him from talking about the war, they drove him to the bottle and alcoholism. It was thanks to those demons that he died long before he should have, long before I showed up to know him and have him tell me about this hill himself.
Nearly 69 years later, I stood on that hill too. I learned about it not from family stories or old letters. I learned about this hill from a US Army map stuck in a report about the Battle of Ascaffenburg. I'd been reading the report to learn about where I live, not to find my grandfather. As fate would have it, this hill is three miles down river from where I live, overlooking a town I ride my bike through regularly and across the river from where we get our groceries. I'd been crossing paths with my grandfather almost every day, and I'd had no idea until I saw that map. So, in some way I thought standing on this hill and looking out over a view he'd seen too would give me a glimpse into his life. The only smoke I saw was from chimneys. The only sounds came from children laughing in the village below and birds in the trees above me. The view was of a quiet countryside. It was the same hill, but it was not the same place. Fifteen kilometers downriver, Aschaffenburg is a bustling city. The castle is rebuilt. The Germany I see, the Germany I live in, is a far cry from the one my grandfather saw.
So, I lit a candle. I lit it not only for my grandfather who I've only known in photographs, but for all the men who's pictures hang on walls or who's names are inscribed on memorials. I lit it to thank him and them for being willing to face the bullets and the bombs and the demons to stop a terrible evil so that the view I see can be only described in one word: peaceful.
Sixty-nine years is a long time, and then again it isn't. It's all too easy to acknowledge the past in passing, glance at memorials, pause at fluttering flags. But slabs of marble don't always tell the stories that need telling. Sometimes the landscape is the better bard. I didn't see my grandfather's ghost up there, but I felt him just for a second or maybe I heard his voice in the sounds of birds and children. "We fought here so you could walk here. Don't forget us."
No, Grandfather, I won't. Until I see you on the other side, I'll meet you at all the perfect and peaceful views you've given me.
