Tuesday

Clip in, just the right foot.  Keep the left foot free for now.  Pulling out of the alley behind the house there could be a car taking the blind corner too fast or an old lady with her head down.  You don't have to worry about the kids right now, they're in school.  At least they should be, you never know.  There's a boy in the back window of the cafe with his Dr. Dre's plugged into his iPhone and texting his girlfriend.  He looks you in the eye when you go by.  It is pouring rain.  They warned the wind could get to 30mph.  And you're going out for a bike ride.  Freak.

Quick, make a decision.  Left or right?  Left is through town with all the obstacles therein.  Right takes the road around the town, a little out of way and there's a tricky crossing at the river, but it's always easier to deal with the cars than the people with their shopping bags.  Right it is.  Clip that left foot in now.  You're home free until the intersection.  Ah, here we are.  What's the situation?  One car up, straddling the convergence of two roads.  He's turning left.  There's a car back now, no signal.  He could be up to anything.  The cross street is clear, time to make the jump behind the left turner.  You're heading straight, the road that doesn't lead anywhere interesting for them.  The car back followed the one up, free and clear.  No one in your way now.

Another intersection, another bridge over this ridiculous river.  You have the right of way this time, everyone else waits.  You're still up to speed from the last jump, there's no reason why they'll want to cut you off, but it's best to make sure.  Don't trust anyone.  Eye contact with the driver of the delivery truck on the right; yep, everyone is on the same page.  He waits.  Eye contact with the driver on left at the bridge.  OK here too.  But, she thinks you're crazy.  So do the kids in the back seat, mouths open and eyes wide as you zip past.

Another right turn, down into the parking lot, then sharp right again onto the path.  Ah, the Piste Cyclable, not that anyone will be joining you today.  There's a dog walker under the bridge with his head down while his furry companion is engrossed with something on the pavement on the other side.  The leash is a trip line.  Tap the brakes.  Where's that stupid bell?  Why don't they sell decent bells on this continent?  Bless the market driven economy, where the public demands a bell that works in the rain and doesn't come loose every half mile to dangle upside down near the headset.  You should chuck this thing in that darned river, or better yet at that oblivious dog walker under the bridge.  Piste Cyclable, ya moron, not Piste Pedestre!  It's on the sign right there!  Perhaps you may encounter a bicycle on it?  It shouldn't be a surprise.  Yet, it is.  You bellow a stern "Pardon!" That bell is just adding weight.  He looks up, a deer in headlights.  Wobbles from left to right, arguing with himself about where he should stand.  There's no need for panic.  You hold your line with perfection, willing him to collect himself to the left.  No.  He yanks the dog by the throat to scoop it up in his arms as he leaps in your path with a look of horror at the sight of a darned velocipede invading his little world, just like a squirrel.   That's the name you've given people like that.  He looks you in the eye, defiant of your presence.  You're just coasting at this point, dropped to a mere 6mph.  You hold his gaze and shake your head.  Piste CYCLABLE.  Moron.

Almost out of town.  Five minutes have been spent maneuvering out of town and around this river.  You'd like to tell that city planner a thing or two.  Weave through a few packs of strolling citizens.  Some on the right, some on the left.  Past the train station and under that big blue bridge for the railroad.  Almost there.  Free and clear.  Dip down under the bridge and check the mirror at the sharp right that takes you out from under it.  Clear.  You almost call it out.  No, you're alone today.  Remember?


Climb up from the river bed and turn left onto the road.  Just houses now.  No people.  Pretty soon the houses are gone too and it's just you, the path, the rain, and that river, rolling along oblivious to the inconvenience it causes travelers in these parts.  The path is wide and smooth here, except for some mud and sticks along the left side, the way home.  That river broke its banks again, just to dump its trash on the path.  Now, under the highway bridge and between its tall cement pylons.  Zip, zip.  Straight now for a bit, but a little uphill grade, barely noticeable   Past that random barnyard.  No goats today, but you can smell them.  The next town, cross the river again.  Bump, bump, bump over the covered bridge.  Careful at the blind corner, you spied a pedestrian before you crossed.  It's tight here between the trees and the concrete barrier.  Where is that pedestrian?  Ah, there he is.  Standing on the river bank, assembling a fishing pole.  The river seems too quick for good fishing, but you don't know anything about fishing.  Maybe this is the perfect day to have a fish dinner.  Ooop, he's stepping backwards into the path.  Darn this bell!  Maybe you can buy a whistle somewhere?  No matter, you swerve by without a word.  He probably only noticed the breeze.  Just a little longer and you'll be out of the towns for good while.  You can't wait.

In a bit you've arrived at the park.  The path is still closed on the left rivebank, blocked by some construction debris.  You won't be able to cross the river where you prefer on the wide red bridge.  You'll have to take the rickety, narrow wooden one over the rapids.  It's really too tight and if someone else is on the bridge it will be an exercise in handling you don't really want to have.  But, there's nothing for it.  Cross here, or head into the the traffic of the town.  It's always congested in the center.  Why? You don't know.  There's nothing in the center worth congesting over.  You take the wooden bridge.  Ah, luck is on your side, it and the visible path on the opposite bank are all your's.  Now you're finally through it.  There will be nothing or very little to contend with until you turn around for home, wherever that is.

The river is high, yes, but back where it belongs, more or less.  Pedal along under bridges and past empty, waterlogged camp grounds.  The benches along the path look like giant birds' nest, caked in river mud and sticks from the last flood.  You wonder for a moment if some goose would consider taking up residence  on one of these prefab constructions.  Metal frame, good view, built to last.  No, that's ridiculous.  What if it floods again?  Better drink a little.  There's a big deep puddle ahead.  You have to go through it, there's no other option.  You've done it before.  Hopefully, there's no surprises like nails or glass in there.  Pedal steady, position the crank arms parallel to the ground just before you dive in.  You're feet aren't too soaked, the back and front of you, well, you're not in this for the fashion.

Now you're in a field, big beautiful views open up.  There's some town on your right.  The church steeple pokes up above the grey slate roofs.  You wonder what that town is called and the name of the hills behind it.  What is everyone doing there today?  Holed up at home reading the paper?  Sipping coffee at the corner cafe and discussing the failing Eurozone?  You're out riding your bike.  That's all that matters.  You forget about the town and the people when it swings out of view.  Back along the river again.  Just the river.  Now under the welcoming branches of the forest.  This is one of your favorite spots on the route.  Trees, silence, and a big muddy river.  Just like home.  There's a road up above you.  You saw a cyclist up there once on a hybrid three sizes too small.  You wonder where the road goes.  Maybe you'll find out someday.

Into the next town now, pop off the trail and onto the road.  Zip right, then quick left past another closed campground and a flower shop.  You like their delivery van, a homage to the old hippie buses.  "Flower Power" is painted on the side, in flowing script.  Past a school now, full of children learning things, and up the steep little climb back into the countryside.  There's a hill up on your right.  In the summer white cows stand on that hill.  Not today.  The river is far on your left now, across the floodplain that you can look down on from here.  Here's the other perfect part of the trail.  Completely covered in trees.  A barely noticeable downhill grade, you can push it here and give yourself a break at the same time.  It's perfect.  Plop! Plop! Smack!  Only the big rain drops make it through the branches in this section, even though they are leafless.  One hits your helmet, loud like a gunshot.  Another pelts you hard on the left arm, right below the elbow.  Ouch.  You wonder if that will leave a bruise.  Shift position, stand in the pedals and let the warm blood flow to all the empty places.  Take another sip of water.  Hmmm, maybe better to go for the electrolyte drink this time.  Mmmm, that takes good, cold, but sugary and revitalizing.  What is this? A commercial?  Unclip the left foot to shake it out and pedal with just your right.  Switch.  That's better.  Everything is awake again.  Now you're going up, far above the floodplain now and you can't see it through the trees.  You didn't even notice until now.

Another town.  The trail ends on a street lined with row homes.  The rain has let up since you entered the woods.  There's an old woman sitting on her front stoop in a floral apron.  Her grey hair is wrapped tightly into a bun, her lips purse around a long cigarette.  A mop leans against the doorjam.  She eyes you suspiciously.  You nod a greeting, you know you're not supposed to, but darn it you can't help yourself.  You're out riding your bicycle.  She's been mopping her floor.

There's a tunnel under the road here, last time it rained like this the tunnel was under water and there wasn't any warning.  You just happened to notice a bizarre reflection at the last minute.  That could have been a disaster.  You won't risk it this time, and stay on the road maneuvering the intersection like a car would.  Wait.  There's a car on the left.  Perfect timing, no need to unclip.  He's gone.  Back to the path, along the hedge on the left, watch the grates around the trees here, they're terrible wheel catchers.  Past another campground and its cafe.  They are advertising frites and ice cream.  Not open.  Keep pedaling.  You're past the spot where your turn around on short rides, near the electrical box.  There's a wide spot that's perfect to pull over and take a break if you want.

Not today though.  You have time.  The legs feel good.  The wind is tough in places, and it will be worse on the way home as it always is, but you don't want to turn around just yet.  Not yet.  You have a banana in your jersey pocket and a sandwich.  Plenty of fluids.  There's a gas station up ahead if you want to grab anything else.  They sell towels made by a company that sponsors Tom Boonen, at least that what you gather from the sign.  Odd that a towel company sponsors a cyclist, but those Classics are dirty affairs, you know.  Past the gas station you go, the trail is one bike width after this point.  Hopefully, you're the only person on it today.  That would be a welcome break.  Up ahead you're getting into holiday country.  Hotels are advertised here and there.  There's another campground on your right.  That big hotel looks fancy, but every time you go by here no one is there.

Just a little further, maybe about 2kms, you could turn into Germany.  You've been meaning to ride in Germany.  Or maybe just stay in this country today.  Go to that town with the Roman Villa in the park and get a mettwurst.  It's only another 18kms, that mettwurst.   Well, heck, it's only another 25km to the town where they make your favorite sparking water.  You could get some where they bottle it.  That'd be something.

Unclip the left foot, shake it out.  Repeat with the right.  Look over your shoulder to see where you've been.  Put your hands on the tops, flex your back.  Stand in the pedals.  Tug on the left glove, then on the right.  Push your glasses up a little further on the bridge of your nose. Adjust the brim of your cap back to center.  Watch the water drops fall in front of your eyes.  Look at the clock.

Yeah, there's time and Germany is just across the river.

Religion

We were discussing the upcoming cycling season the other night- plans of what we're going to watch and where, who's favored for what, etc. when I saw a glaze come over my husband's eyes.  I had to laugh.  He'd tipped his hand and the truth was out.  He wasn't quite with me.  We are one of those couples.

"Cycling is like church, many attend, but few understand."  Jim Burlant said that, and while I have no idea who he is, I have to say it's definitely one of my favorite quotes.  It hits the nail squarely on the head.  Cycling is exactly like church, or more accurately, religion.  It doesn't matter which specific religion you want to equate it to.  That's not the point.  The point is, some people get it and some people don't.  Some people (like my husband, apparently) follow along and go to the events to be supportive of someone they love.  Others, often for some unknown reason, passionately hate it and all those that practice it.  They love to make fun of it and point to every slip up by some devotee as evidence that the whole thing is a load of hogwash.  Conversely, there are those that swear allegiance to it, go on TV and  cite miracles, raise money, rally the troops, and make impassioned speeches like,

"Finally, the last thing I’ll say to the people who don’t believe in cycling, the cynics and the skeptics: I'm sorry for you. I’m sorry that you can’t dream big. I'm sorry you don't believe in miracles. But this is one hell of a race. This is a great sporting event and you should stand around and believe it. You should believe in these athletes, and you should believe in these people. I'll be a fan of the Tour de France for as long as I live. And there are no secrets — this is a hard sporting event and hard work wins it. So Vive le Tour forever!"

And then, they turn out to be complete jokes- hypocrites.  Newsflash:  they're everywhere, in religion, in cycling, in life.  And, in religion, cycling, and life the trick is seeing past all the crap that the hypocrites cause and keep on believing.  It's not about the faces on the street, the voices on the television, the guys that write the books, the reformers, or the ones that make the impassioned speeches.  Eventually, they all let you down, saints and cyclists alike.  And, if you're here for them, my friend, I'm afraid you don't get it.

What matters is the relationship with the bicycle itself.  That's the core.  Without that, it's just window dressings of ritual, pomp, and circumstance.  If the bike you ride is what keeps bringing you back, you're onto something there.  It's what brought us all here to begin with, that moment of epiphany.  Maybe it was when we first took off on our own without the training wheels.  Maybe it was 30 years later on a solitary ride in the park.  It's the ride itself that reels in the believers and keeps them hooked.  There are ups and downs to it, just like anything else.  There are days when it just plain hurts.  There are days when you'd rather do anything else than look at a bicycle.  There are days when it beats you up, physically and mentally.  But, those days are the ones that strengthen the faith.  We always come back, the ever looping maxim of "If the bicycle can be ridden, then it must be ridden" playing in our minds.

If you know what I'm talking about, well, I'll look forward to seeing you at service.

The Best Meal You'll Have in a Hospital

Today, I'm going to tell you about the best meal I've had in a year, heck, probably longer.  You're thinking, "Great, yet another blog post and photo album on someone's dinner that I don't care about."  More than likely, yes, but I'm going to tell you anyway.  It was that incredible.

It takes more than good food and drink to make a meal.  The truly excellent and memorable dining experience is more than what's on the plate.  The service, ambiance, pace, and the company are what make a great night out.

While there don't miss the beautiful hat rack and cane
stand.  A gorgeous work of art.

Last weekend, we stumbled upon a gem of restaurant in the Belgian Ardennes.  The town of Saint Hubert doesn't have too much to offer in the way of dining.  You can get your usual Italian, a kebab, and some overpriced raclette, but just outside the main center there is an institutional looking building that serves up seasonal dishes that won't disappoint.  Ann and Hans run L'Ancien Hopital at 23 Rue de la Fontaine, a restaurant and hotel in a renovated, you guessed it, old hospital.  The name is all that would suggest its history because there is no hint of "hospital" about the place.  Upon entering, guests with headwear are invited to hang them on an impressive rack of antlers.  What's not to love about that?  In the winter, you can sit by the fire and enjoy a house aperitif or a fine Belgian beer (two Trappists- Orval and nearby Rochefort are available) as you peruse the menu.  Then there's the amuse-bouche composed of some seasonal selections.  In the winter, you may be served some wild boar and warm spiced yellow beet juice.  Afterwards, you're off to your table and it's time to enjoy the main event, one that will in all likelihood take a few hours.  It's worth it.  Seasonal entrees or soups are next, accompanied by housemade fresh bread that will be replenished throughout the evening.  The mains are next on the list and you may have trouble deciding between dishes of fresh fish, beef, veal, Guinea fowl or perhaps they will have pheasant and venison.  You never know as the menu changes regularly.  That is the beauty of the place.  You never have to eat the same thing twice and each new creation is a pleasure for the senses.  I went with the trio of beef fillets and, sigh, I can't tell you how lovely it was to eat a perfectly cooked Black Angus steak.  It's been ages since I've had a properly seasoned one.  It tasted just as good as those at home, maybe better.  But, the meal doesn't end there, folks.  Oh no.  If you're willing to pay a little extra (you should) you can indulge in the cheese board.  And, this is no ordinary cheese board.

We were presented with seven beautiful pasteurized and unpasteurized cheeses from France, Scotland, The Swiss Alps,  and the Netherlands.  Each one was an incredible shock of flavor, but the one I will never forget was the truffle cheese from France.  In a word, splendid.  The Swiss cheese had a such a dusty thick rind you could practically taste the Alpine barn it had aged in.  They get their cheeses direct from Michel Van Tricht & Son, named by the Wall Street Journal as the best cheese shop in all of Europe.  If they're supplying cheese to the Belgian royal family, you know it has to be good.  And it is.  It is.  

Room must be saved for the dessert and a little coffee.  Beware of the Chocolate Mousse Bomb.  That sucker will take even the seasoned chocoholic to task.  I still haven't recovered.

f you happen to be around the Belgian Ardennes on a cycle or trekking tour please go out of your way to make some reservations at L'Ancien Hopital.  Bring your friends, sit back, relax, and prepare to experience an event.  Hans will take good care of you in Dutch, French, or English and Ann will make sure there's always a fresh slice of bread on your plate.  With amazing food, great service, and reasonable prices you will not be disappointed.  I know we will be back again and again.

When the Grass is Actually Greener on the Other Side

The date:  New Year's Day, 2013.  The place: A closed, unobtrusive road in North (but, technically central) Luxembourg.  The mood: cold, wet, windy, and silent as the grave.

Besides the date, on paper this wasn't supposed to be a game changing ride.  It was a recon ride, planned to scope out the trail and road conditions after two straight weeks of rain and subsequent flooding along the Alzette River.  It had been a while since either of us had ridden anywhere and this ride would also serve as an easy leg stretcher.  Nothing crazy.  It wasn't supposed to be interesting and with the cold rain and nasty winter wind it wasn't even supposed to be very enjoyable either.

Besides the usual recommitments to health that get tossed around this time of year, I wanted the fire back.  The fire for the bike, my bike, that I had lost somewhere between moving overseas, figuring things out, wrecking and healing, looking for myself, and running around like crazy.  Life had been about where we were and all those doors that got opened because of it.  My bikes knew that I had lost my fire for them in favor of road trips, cameras, acrylics, and interesting cuisine.  I couldn't look them in the eye.  If you know bicycles, really know bicycles, you know what I'm talking about.

I didn't know how I was going to get that fire back, but I can tell you one thing, it wasn't supposed to show up on a recon ride of the daily commute route.  We rode south, as always, a few towns down to where my husband's office is along the same old bike path, him on his mountain bike and me on the Trek, a.k.a Rain Bike.

I'm going to be honest with you, I never liked this route.  Sure, half of it is on dedicated bicycle trails which are supposed to be the best things ever.  But, between the constant trail closures due to one construction project after another and the daily encounters with wacked out pedestrians, getting to hop on the road in a few places became a welcomed break.  At least the drivers were predictable-ish.  Riding this way had become a chore and a daily frustration and I imagine it had something to do with that fire going out.  The thought of another year riding this way wasn't exactly inspiring.  I actually groaned as we rolled across the bridge that connects our town to the bike path thinking of all the joys I will get to experience on this passage over the next twelve months.  Today, however, no one, and I mean no one, was out.  For once there weren't unsupervised children jumping out in front of my wheel, no dogs roaming around off leash, no zoned out grannies swerving back and forth with their shopping carts filled to the brim with baguettes and bad moods, no pot smoking teenagers that are incapable of sliding out of the way so you can pass, and none of those puzzling characters that respond with befuddlement and panic to the sound of one's bell or appearance around a bend.  The bike path, for once, was for cyclists and it was ours.

We arrived at the turn around point without incident.  As we started to head back the way we came, my husband said, "You know, a while ago I spotted this road on the other side of the river.  It's not supposed to be open to traffic, but I think it's cool for bikes.  Want to check it out?"  Sure, what the heck, we might actually have some fun.  Cycling is supposed to be fun.

Off we went.  A barrier was across the road which warned of flooding.  As the river had receded somewhat in the past couple of days, we decided to give it a shot anyway and swung around the barrier.  The road turned off the main thoroughfare and passed along the guard house and imposing wall of Berg Castle, the early 20th Century built monstrosity that serves as the private residence for the Grand Ducal family.  Past the castle, the road turns into a new development which is providing endless amusements for the local construction enthusiasts.  After that, the road is downgraded to local access, meaning it is not supposed to be used for people looking for a back way into Ettelbruck (not that it stops them from trying).  The road itself shrinks from proper two lanes to 1.5, if that.  The surface hasn't seen a paver since at least 1990 and it is full of holes, fissures, lumps and bumps.  It's perfect.

Then, there's this spot.  It isn't a secret.  You can see it from the highway quite clearly.  Nevertheless, it's something you only really enjoy from a bike saddle.  Up above the road sits a big old manor house, mostly shuttered and weather beaten but it has a roof and a story.  Someone still owns it and despite its forgotten looks, it isn't open for curious exploration.  No trespassing, reads the sign on the stately sandstone gate.  It was a baronial residence, now a private one that still has a touch of mystery about it.  Why was the bridge to the town destroyed?  Did it have a part to play in the goings on of the 1940's?  Does anyone still live in the old place or do they prefer one of the other buildings in the back? The answers aren't important.  The point is, there was something about sitting out on a barely there road, on a cheerless New Year's afternoon, in front of a melancholy old manor house that ignited a spark.

This is cool.  Here I am riding my bike.  In Europe.  Past two castles in a matter of minutes.  Look at this! This road is splendid.  No cars.  No people.  I can ride as fast or as slow as I want and there isn't going to be someone on my butt or in my way every 2 yards.  There's just a farm, some cows, and a couple of really awesome buildings.  Look at those dramatic clouds! When was the last time you had a chance to enjoy the clouds? We can ride this way every single day!  We don't need to through the pain and agony of the bike path anymore! This is fun, actually fun.  I feel happy.

I guess you can say that ride was pretty huge in a meaningful kind of way.  All of sudden, cycling was starting to get exciting again, like it hadn't in a long time.  I couldn't wait for the next day when I would ride this way again.  And the next day.  And the next.  Let me tell you, I've ridden this route almost every day since last Tuesday and so far it is still just as awesome as the first time we put our tires on that washed out pavement.  It has me itching to ride again, not only because it is a gorgeous little route, but also because it is peaceful.  Peace is a powerful thing.

That ride of the New Year changed everything. Everything.  The fire to ride here, there and everywhere is back.  I can look my bikes in the eye again.  We're cool.

"Rain Bike, let's head out for a little quiet spin past some castles to the office, shall we?  Same time again tomorrow?  Hey, while we're at it, do you want to check out the health food shop in the next village and schelp a big jar of coconut oil home?  Yeah, there's going to be some nasty little hills, some impatient motorists around the city center, and a handful of squirrelly pedestrians, but there's that sweet roundabout on the downhill.  I don't care who you are, that's just plain fun!  Hey Revenio, I know the weather is disgusting and you like to stay pretty, but aren't you sick of sitting on the trainer?  Want to hit the road this Saturday and get 20 miles or so in ya for the New Year? Yeah?  I thought so.  I promise to make you pretty again when we get home.  If you're up for it, how about a ride in Belgium next weekend?  Keep your eye on the weather forecast.  Don't worry Varsity, we're gonna replace that saddle bracket straight away.  Soon as the days dry out, you'll be making the run to the office too.  Don't tell the others, but I have a sneaky feeling we're going to have the most fun."*

Besides just having the fire to ride, the spark to ride better has also been ignited.  I'm paying attention to distance, heart rate and even cadence, something I never really did before.  If there's one thing I learned last year, it's that an injury can not only take you out of the game for a while, it can ruin the year.  It can put out fires.  While not all injuries can be avoided, riding smart can prevent a lot of them.  A bike is only as good as its engine and my poor bikes have been cheated out of a decent one for a while.  No more.  Suddenly, I'm looking at foods not so much on how they're going to go down, but how they're going to fuel, maintain, lighten, and streamline the engine that powers the bikes.  Smoothies actually taste good when you know they're all part of the process for better rides.  And, at the end of the day my legs feel good, not dead, and I'm sleeping a solid 8 every night.

Sometimes all it takes is the other side of the river to provide a little enlightenment and a fresh start.  Before, I was riding through pedestrian congestion, parking lots, factories and train stations.  I felt squeezed in, held back, and frustrated.  Now, I'm in open fields that are all to myself.  I'm getting some air and the sights are pretty awesome too.  The effects of crossing to the other side of the river are far reaching.  It's a new point of view that provided a new outlook on life.

I suspect 2013 is going to be a very good year.  I hope it is for you as well.  If not, try the other side of the river.  You may be surprised.




*By the way, it is perfectly acceptable to have conversations with your bicycle.  Don't let anyone tell you different.  They don't get it.