Street Project: Paris

I've accepted that we'll never see everything there is to see nor photograph everything there is to photograph in Paris.  It is so big and its tapestry so rich that it would take ages to experience it all.  But, that won't stop us from trying.

Weekend Away Kit

iPhone 5s

We went back to Paris last weekend for a quick break from the doldrums.  Our train came in late Friday night and we left about mid-day on Sunday, so we really only had Saturday there.  We decided that we'd use the brief visit to explore some of the markets Paris is famous for.  It was also a chance for me to try my hand at street style photography, something I've been itching to do for a while (UPDATE: scroll to the bottom to learn what a giant cluster this actually is).  And, it presented the perfect opportunity to try out the kit I had designed for weekend travels.  Our trips are usually pretty brief.  On average they're 4 days because my husband only has 10 days vacation for the year (The Company has a terrible vacation policy for its American employees, a definite sore point when everyone else in Germany is given 30 by law!).  Sometimes on these brief escapes carrying several bodies just isn't practical or necessary.  One of the reasons I opted for a mirrorless system for my second body was because of the smaller size and increased versatility.  They're perfect cameras for travel.  The kit I came up with for a couple days in Paris was composed of the Fujifilm X-E2 paired with the 35mm lens.  I stuck the 18-55mm lens in the bag for good measure (and because I had the room). I brought along my old Joby GorillaPod, the remote shutter, and, of course, spare batteries and cards.  All of this fit in in a small camera foam partition which slides easily into my 38x12x28cm Vaho Ginkgo bag while leaving room for other daily essentials.  It was the perfect setup for carrying a camera around the city all day and using it easily without hindering or drawing attention to me.

We spent half of Saturday at the Vanves flea market in the 14th arrondissement.  Quality antique flea markets (sadly, a rarity in the States) are a great place for picking up unique and bargain items.  They're also perfect places for watching and photographing people.  The Vanves market seemed populated almost entirely of character actors.  I'm not sure what was more fun, browsing through all oddments or soaking up the scene.

Street portraits are a tricky business (NOTE: more on why at the bottom).  Most people don't like having their picture taken without knowing about it, let alone by a random stranger.  But, candid street portraits present the most realistic presentation of a city's soul, in my opinion.  They're not posed, processed, or planned.  What you see is what you get.  Not all cameras setups can work for this sort of photography.  I can tell you my Canon 600D with the painfully slow 50mm lens and KA-CHUNK KA-CHUNK shutter definitely does not.  But, the X-E2 with the 35mm was perfect for this experiment.  The lens' autofocus is nice and quick and the camera itself can be set up specifically for stealthy street photography.  With all the hustle and bustle in the markets I found myself shooting from the hip more often than not, and was pleased with what the camera captured.  Having dials at my finger tips instead of a menu I had to scroll through made it easy to switch settings in order to capture some of the interesting items for sale as well.

Disorganized bric-à-brac

Keychains

Curiosity

Minibars of a bygone time

The following day we breezed through the Porte de Vincennes food market on our way to the Gare de l'Est and our train home.  We didn't have time to make any purchases, but it was a lively place to wander through on a Sunday morning.  Of course, this neighborhood has been in the news recently because of the tragic events of January 9th.  It didn't feel right to come to Paris without paying our respects to the victims of the dreadful events of two months ago.  The Porte de Vincennes Hyper Cacher kosher market where four Jewish men were executed by the ISIL jihadist Amedy Coulibaly is still closed.  Barricades block access to the building and it is under constant guard by gendarmes.  A month after the attacks a 38 year old man tried to ignite an Israeli flag in front of the store and was immediately arrested.  Concerns for the Jewish population of Paris remain.  Today, bouquets of dead flowers and water filled candles still rest along the barricade.  There were few visitors to the site despite the bustling market across the street that morning.  The store is scheduled to reopen again later this month.  It is unknown if there is a plan to erect a permanent memorial or if when the flowers and candles are cleared away there will be nothing to remind people of what happened here.  In a time when such atrocities are becoming commonplace remembrance is extremely important.

We ended up with some extra time before our train so we wandered over to the Canal Saint-Martin near the train station to watch the boats and enjoy a quiet moment before heading home.

And, of course, train stations are always perfect places for some candids.  Paris's stations are some of the busiest in Europe.  We always arrive and depart from Gare de l'Est and usually wait there for an hour so we can grab lunch or dinner.  I enjoyed being able to snap away from my bench while we waited, capturing the mundane moments of travel and the character of the old station.  We adore train travel and intend to do more of it in the coming year.  Trains are more comfortable, quieter, easier, and fun than flying.  And, spending time in the stations certainly beats the purgatory of airports.  If we can get a train somewhere, we'll take it.

I was really pleased with my choice of kit for our weekend in Paris.  I never used the 18-55mm lens as I enjoyed the creative challenges and payoffs of working only with a fixed focal length.  It was my first extensive use of the 35mm since I received it last month, and its performance for fast paced street photos was impressive.  The old Canon "nifty fifty" has officially been retired.  I also decided to only shoot in black and white.  For me, Paris is striking in monochrome and I have a very hard time thinking of shooting it any other way.  Fujifilm's black and white film simulation has excellent balance and contrast.  Thanks to that and the excellent 35mm lens I didn't need to do anything in post except crop.

The last shot of the weekend was taken back in Frankfurt at the train station as the lowering sun pierced through the glass canopy over the platforms, putting the passing travelers in silhouette.  I snapped it just as we ducked through the exit onto the street bringing a wonderful weekend away in our favorite capital to a close.

The rest of the photos can be viewed on Flickr.

BIG HONKING NOTE:  Some of you may be asking "Hey, you're writing about street candids but I don't see any on here" or "Hey, I looked at Flickr or this post earlier and there were more photos."  Well, you'd be very correct in your observations.  I'm definitely still learning some stuff and this experiment had me crossing a bridge I haven't encountered before with landscapes and cityscapes- European photography laws.  I knew street photography isn't favorably looked upon here in Germany.  Heck, they don't even have Google Streetview in the majority of the country.  More and more street photographers are experiencing hostility (and sometimes assault) from subjects, even in popular public places where people would likely be taking photographs.  Basically it's illegal to publish (yes, even if it's just going online but not for sale) someone's picture in Germany without their permission.  There are exceptions, if it's a public event like a demonstration or a sporting event, if they're a celebrity (but not their kids), if you would be unable to determine their identity in the photo (face is obscured), or if they're a performer.  If there are a bunch of people in the photo (some sources say more than six) it's ok to have them in the picture.  The laws may be changing by becoming more strict in the near future, but that's still up in the air.  So, the picture above is totally fine because you cannot recognize anyone in it due to the lighting.

I didn't even think about this in Paris.  I mean, France is the birthplace of the great street photographers like Cartier-Bresson.  We visited the Henri Cartier-Bresson Foundation last weekend, for crying out loud.  People are snapping photos all over the city all the time.  But, in reading about the possible change of legislation in Germany, I discovered that France is just as, if not more, strict.  You cannot take someone's photo without their permission at all (except at sporting events, celebrities in a public place).  People own the rights to their faces, basically.  I cannot legally exhibit a photograph taken in France with a recognizable person in it outside of the above exceptions (whew, on the Tour de France stuff!).  There are even some strict laws regarding permanent objects like, for example, the Eiffel Tower.  French photography laws (explained rather well here) are, in short, ridiculous.  They celebrate their pioneers of photography with numerous exhibitions and museums, but then tell modern photographers that they can't practice their art there.  In this day and age of smartphones it's impossible to enforce these laws consistently, but lawsuits do happen- most often in regards to candids of individuals.  It's a sad situation, because in my opinion freedom of expression has been completely stamped out.  This doesn't stop people from taking candids from the hip (and it won't stop me), but it does stop me from showing them to you online, in a book, or on a gallery wall.  Hopefully, one day these laws will be reigned in and all these moments of place and culture captured by street photographers will be legal.  Until then, I'll keep snapping in France and Germany, but, alas, you'll have to schedule a private viewing of the results.  I'm pretty sure HCB is rolling in his grave.  If he were alive today, he would be prosecuted!  C’est n’importe quoi !

Oh, and if you're shooting in Hungary, bring your tripod, ND filters, and remote shutter for your day shots. 

Pedaling About

So, here we are, rolling down into the last half of July.  The Tour is in full swing and here in old Bavaria the temperatures are on the rise.  We're at 90F this afternoon so the shutters are pulled down, the fans are blowing at maximum velocity, and occasionally Cat 1, Cat 2, The Dog, and myself climb up to the top floor (there are 5 in this wacky house) where the floor air conditioner is and enjoy a civilized temperature for a few minutes.

The cycling, however, is still going on.  Last weekend, we treated the bikes to a fieldtrip in Denmark to cycle around an island in the Baltic.  Let me tell you, Ærø may be a little place, but it packs quite a bit into it.  For cyclists it's one of those places that is just about perfect.  Despite it being Denmark, there are some decent hills.  Because it's Denmark, there's plenty of wind.  Because Ærø is special, there's plenty of coffee stops, good food, fantastic people, clear roads, big views, old churches, and even a craft brewery.  Oh, and there are cobbles.  Plenty of teeth jarring cobbles.  And, when you're done riding for the day, the sunsets can't be beat.

Empty roads and beautiful skies.

One of the quintessential windmills

Typical lane in Ærøskøbing, the oldest port town on the island.

House in Ærøskøbing

The amazing beer of Ærø

Great place to try your legs on some cobbles.

Island residents sell homemade items from their doorsteps and trust you to leave the money in the provided can.

No caption necessary.

But, that's going to be it for the traveling for a while.  For the rest of this fast moving summer we're focused on cycling closer to home.  The Rapha Womens 100 ride is, of course, this Sunday.  Once again, I will be joining other women all over the globe to ride 100km to support women's cycling.  While it'll just be my husband and I on our own since there aren't any organized rides in these parts, there are plenty of organized and supported rides around the world to join up with.  So, if you're up for doing 100km on Sunday, join us!

And, after that?  Well, the two of us are going to tackle something a little longer.  Over the next couple of months we'll be training to attempt our first century ride.  Without anything else going on, might as well give it a shot, right?  I'll let you know how it goes.  But, I have to admit I'm looking forward to the next couple of months just being about the bike.

Hitting the Alpine Trails

So, hiking in Europe is a pretty big deal.  They don't do it like we do in the States.  Being out in the backcountry, carrying everything you need to live on your back, filtering your water, and obsessing about bears is an incredible experience that I can't recommend enough- seriously.  But in Europe, long distance backpacking is more a leisure activity, not an exercise in survival.  You don't carry dehydrated food, you don't even need a tent.  In the very popular spots, there's food and drink along the way and there's a bed of sorts available at the end of the day.  Of course, that all comes from the fact that Europe has a lot more people in it.  You're never far from civilization.  And that can make the walking all day thing a whole lot of fun.  Did I mention there was beer?  If you love backpacking in the States you'll love it just as much in Europe.  Maybe more.

The Alps, be it the French, Swiss, Italian, Slovenian, Austrian, or German (not to mention the Liechtensteiner and Monacan), is one of the most popular places to go for a hike, wander, or trek.  Let me tell you, you've never hiked in a place quite like this.  Over the holiday weekend we drove down to the Austrian Alps to get some quality mountain time.  Usually, April is the off season in the mountains, bridging the gap between ski season and the warm weather that permits high altitude trekking and climbing.  Thanks to the unseasonably warm weather this Spring the higher trails were mostly accessible despite one overnight light dusting.

The great thing about hiking in Alpine countries is that people have been doing that sort of thing there for quite some time.  The trails are well established and well marked.  The maps (available at every little tourist information office in every little town) are proper maps.  They're waterproof, have scales and keys, and they have topo lines. They're basically USGS grade and this makes me very happy.  You'd be surprised how rare it is to find tourist maps at this level of detail, and a good map can make or break a hike.  Well, all the maps produced by the tourist bureaus in the Alps are good.  Between the signs at every trail intersection (they're even in the really barren, hard to get to places) and these perfect maps, you don't have to worry about losing your way.  You can plan a route down to the minute.  Plus, along the way there are huts (also labeled on the map).  These huts aren't just lean-tos with a picnic bench.  A lot of them are staffed, rent beds, and serve meals.  One that we came across brewed beer, pretty good beer actually.  There are trails everywhere.  All are labeled on the maps and points of interest are indicated on the trail with walking time.  They even color code the trails for difficulty level.

Despite the cushy support system, the trails can still kick your butt.  Sure, some of the hut to hut circuits stay more or less on the flats and are family friendly.  But, head up a little higher and bring your trekking poles and a good set of boots because you'll be scrambling, balancing on cliff edges, and possibly tackling some snow.  Head a little higher and there are via ferrata routes or bring your ropes and pitons.  Anyway you want to do it, you'll have fun.  Beer, alpine cheese, and hot coffee aren't that far off.  Of course, it's the scenery that makes a good hike, and the Alps have good scenery in spades.

So, if you're visiting Europe take some time away from the cities and sightseeing, grab a daypack, strap on your boots, and go for a walk in the Alps.  You won't be disappointed.

The Most Important Patch of Land in France

There's an area up in northern France, you may have heard of it.  To look at it, you may not guess that it is probably one of the most significant places in the world.  Well, it is.

Utah Beach

Today, Normandy is one giant tourist attraction.  You'll hear more English being spoken here than you will French, even in the off season.  But, just a short 70 or so years ago this area was at the very eye of the storm during World War II.  One June 6, 1944, the Allies brought the fight to Hitler when they invaded Utah, Omaha, Juno, Sword, and Gold beaches.  From that point on, the tide of the war in Europe had definitely changed.

William the Conqueror's Castle, the imposing fortress of Falaise where the Duke
and future King of England was born and spent his early years.

But, incidentally, the events of D-Day aren't the only reason why Normandy is significant.  An invasion, this time in the reverse, which took place about 880 years prior is another claim to fame for the former Duchy.  Pretty much every student of Western history knows the date of 1066, when William the Bastard, Duke of Normandy, launched about 700 ships from Normandy on his way to the history changing battle at Hastings with Harold Godwinson.  The defeat of the Anglo-Saxon army by the Normans drastically altered the course of world history.  The repercussions of the Norman invasion cannot be overstated.  Normandy was William's home and where he spent most of his life, even after he became King of England.  It's where he learned to be one of the most successful military and government leaders to have ever lived.

Bayeux Cathedral, the original 

So, you see, Normandy is saturated in history.  It is positively dripping in it, actually.  The major cities of Caen and Bayeux are chock full of 12th Century edifices.  You can't turn a corner without running into some giant yellow sandstone monument to the Normans' power.  If you have a thing for medieval architecture, something I myself suffer from, you will be in heaven.  Despite the destruction of war that nearly leveled these cities, very few of the old buildings show any signs of that abuse today.  Bayeux is home to one of the most important works of European art too.  The Bayeux Tapestry resides in its very own museum in the heart of the city.  The tapestry is not only a work of art, but a historical document.  At seventy meters long, it tells the story of the Norman invasion, from Edward the Confessor's bequeathing of the crown to his cousin William, to Harold's adventures in Normandy, to his snatching of the crown upon Edward's death, to the building of the Norman fleet, to the final moments of the battle in 1066.  For a piece of cloth that is almost 1000 years old, it doesn't show it's age.  It's incredible, not only because of the level of craftsmanship and the aesthetics, but because of its fantastic detail.  You can learn a lot about what things were like in the Middle Ages just by studying this 70m long cloth.

Obviously, however, most people visit Normandy because of the events of 1944.  Today, it's hard to imagine as you walk through the quaint streets of the cities or the beaches the amount of violence that erupted here.  It's an inherently peaceful place of stone villages, seaside cottages, and sun dappled gardens.  But, you don't have to look too closely to see evidence of what went down here.

German jackboot print in a ruined artillery bunker.

One of Hitler's last surviving guns, now silent overlooking the Channel at Longues-sur-Mer

The D-Day sites of Normandy have been written about time and again by authors far more knowledgable and talented than myself.  I will not begin to pour into the events, the characters, and the immensities of D-Day.  It's too much to take in, process, and then re-disseminate.  I didn't expect to be moved when we visited the American cemetery.  I've spent many hours in cemeteries for my work back in the day.  Never once was I overwhelmed by a cross or a name and a date.  Here, however, I was.  How do you reacted to field after field of pure white stone representing a lives cut down in their prime for a cause they couldn't have understood?  I don't know.  It's something that has be seen to understand

So, visit Normandy? Yes.  Visit Normandy even if you don't care one iota about history?  Yes.  The food is good, and you may actually learn something too.  Learning never hurt anyone.  Normandy has a lot to teach.  It played a major role in two of the most significant events in world history, events which shape our present world.  Of any place in France, perhaps even more than that famous tower, this is one spot you should visit.

Lovin' Leuven

Ok, I realize I talk about Belgium a lot.  I understand that I might have a small addiction to the place.  However, since the move to Germany, I don't think we'll be getting there much anymore.  When we realized that, we decided to ween ourselves off the land of strong beer and golden frites instead of going cold turkey.  So, one more visit was in order last weekend.  There was one place we wanted to visit one more time and another we hadn't made it to yet.

The revisit, of course, had to be L'Ancien Hopital in Saint-Hubert.  As they say, the third time's the charm.  We were pretty certain that it was our favorite restaurant ever, but a third visit would seal the deal.  We were right, not that there were any doubts.  This time we also booked a room, so it's not only the best restaurant ever, but it's also a lovely place to spend the weekend.  My final words on the subject:  If you are in Belgium (I'm talking to you, cycling fans) you need to make a special trip down to Saint-Hubert for a meal.  You will not be disappointed.  I'm certain of it.  Plus, it'll give you the opportunity to ride the lesser known roads of Wallonia.

Ok, now on to Leuven.  When people (I mean non-cycling fans now) visit Belgium, if they do at all, the big draws are Brussels and Bruges.  As a result, there are a lot of other equally awesome (if not better) cities that stay under the radar.  You get all the same sorts of things that draw people to the Big B's, but none of the tour buses.  Leuven is one of those cities.

Leuven is a university city.  It's about 25km east of Brussels in Flanders, so a piece a cake to visit on a day trip or an overnight stop if time in Belgium is brief.  While it's not like the preserved medieval cities of Bruges and Gent, it has a lot to offer the visitor.

First of all, it is home to InBev, the largest brewer in the world.  Stella Artois is brewed in the city and opens its doors to groups of visitors on the weekends.  If you're traveling with a large group, this might be worth a look.  English tours are provided.  If you're not interested in a tour or can't tag along with a group, you can visit their on site shop to pick up a souvenir.  Now, for those who prefer craft beer over the big factory brews, Leuven is also home to the smaller Huisbrouwerij Domus which makes 3 crafts at their location in the center as well as a pub.  Still not impressed with the brewing options?

The last weekend of April is Leuven's Beer Weekend (April 26-27 in 2014). It is the largest Belgian beer festival in the world!  During the weekend at least 100 brewers will be in the city offering their wares, there will be special tours at Domus and Stella, and special beer themed tours of the city.  We were told the majority of the participants are small craft breweries so it's an opportunity to try beers you won't find outside of this part Belgium.  As a bonus, this is the same weekend as Liège-Bastogne-Liège, so if you're in the area for the Ardennes Classics anyway...

Ok, enough about the beer.

Leuven being a University city, the oldest Catholic University in the world actually, is vibrant and eclectic.  You won't find the same old same old in Leuven.  The pedestrian shopping district is one of the largest I've visited and is dominated by unique boutiques and shops you won't find in every other city.  If you're interested in picking up something besides the usual tourist trap junk this would be a place to look.  There are plenty of churches and chapels to explore if you're an architecture enthusiast.  And there's a well reviewed art museum, M, if you're looking for an afternoon to appreciate Flemish masters or contemporary art.

And dinner?  You won't have trouble finding a place to cater to your cravings.  You can find traditional Flemish restaurants or something with a more creative bent.  Of course, if you're in the mood for Italian or Mexican or just about anything else, they have that too.  There are some truly fine dining options available.  You will definitely eat well.  But, make sure you book ahead.

Of course, the city has the same charm of the other Belgian cities with a massive (currently being restored) cathedral, flamboyant Town Hall, and traditional Flemish architecture.  It's a pleasure to stroll through the city squares, especially after hours when the shopping crowds clear out and the buildings are lit.

So, if you have time and want to see a corner of Belgium that's often overlooked, give Leuven a shot.  You may been pleasantly surprised!

The Existential Trail

I was sitting on a ridge when I realized what I feared.  The path, no more than a foot wide, was exposed shale and the ridge it traversed so precariously, stuck out like a ship's prow into a deep and seemingly uninhabited valley.  One step to the left or right, and down we would plunge into the valley below with the weight of our fully loaded packs hurrying our descent.  The burnt colors of the Ardennes autumn were just making their subtle appearance on opposite hillsides and the scrubby bushes at our feet.  Occasionally, a cold wind whipped from the northeast and found its way around our packs and through our clothing.  We left our packs on as we sat on the trail eating our lunch, for if we removed them they would go tumbling down never to be seen again.

I had been secretly obsessed with this path.  Some inner drive insisted that we stand here at some point during our journey in Europe.  However, I did not know that this specific place existed until we popped out of the undergrowth and trees that completely enveloped the trail only moments before.  As soon as the view of the valley and the simplicity of the path was revealed, I knew that this is the place I had longed for.  I had expected to step onto this treacherous track in the Alps or the Skarvheimen, but not a few miles from my doorstep.  Yet, there it was, just as I imagined it.  And here we were, perched on the edge just I knew we had to be.   And that is when I began to realize what I feared.  It wasn't the trail itself or the realization that one misstep would certainly ruin the day.  In fact, it had very little to do with the place at all, except being there planted the seed of a realization.

What would happen, who would I become if I had chosen a different trail?  What if in my search for the day's trek I had decided on a course with constant elevation or one with fewer or more kilometers?  Or worse, what if I had settled for a guidebook's recommend trail.  What if we had erred on the side of caution to follow a course others had told us to take.  We would never have been here.  We would not be standing in that place I had imagined.  I would still be visiting it in my dreams, where mist covers the view on either side only a few feet from the edges of the trail.  This place only exists where we were.  Similar paths no doubt can be found elsewhere, but there is nothing guaranteeing we will stand on them.  This trail would become a regret, because it had never been followed.  My great fear in fact was not something tangible such as an insect or an animal or a disease or a gruesome end it was, as Thoreau so elegantly put it, "when I came to die, discover that I had not lived."

Those who travel regularly know the value of a good guidebook.  They provide that much appreciated information such as where to find museum passes and sample the best cannoli.  But, many times we fall into over reliance.  We turn our brains off and blindly follow the tour presented in the pages of Lonely Planet, Trip Advisor, and Rick Steves' Europe.  First, we head here, then at this time we go there, and finally at the end of the day we must end up at this place to see this thing.  We foolishly believe that a perfect travel experience can only be had if another says it is perfect.  It doesn't matter if it's a well worn tour or something off the beaten path.  It is only good if it says so in the book. We cheat ourselves.  We close doors in our own faces because we don't want to believe in the possibility that we can walk through them.  We no longer turn our heads from side to side to peer around corners because someone has convinced us that it is not worth our time or what is down there is not good.

Of course, one of the great analogies for life is travel.  In life as in travel, we often turn to the directives of others in order to map how we will live.  I do not refer to one's world view, sense of morality, or religion (be it the belief in a higher power or the conviction that there is none).  I'm talking about how we decide to use our time on this earth, the trail we choose to follow day to day.  We all have things we want to do in our lives, but it seems many times we decide we want them because someone told us we must.  First, you do this, then this, then you must do this, because then this has to happen, and only then can you die being fulfilled.  What would our lives be if we allowed ourselves to pick and choose what we want from the standard formula and then turn down paths more suited to ourselves?  What if we listened to our gut more than the directives of those around us?  Would our mistakes and unsuspected tragedies seem as horrific?  Would we turn to self-help books, fad diets, and approval of others so readily?  Would we lay all our hopes and fulfillment in relationships?  Would we rest our laurels on our children only to be shattered in the wake of their departures or their so called failures?  Would we gather so much unnecessary wealth and prestige in hoarded piles around us?  These things, these acts, are so often prescribed as what life is about or what will flesh it out, but is that not dependent on the life?

I believe so.  Like a vast stretch of wilderness there are many trails to be taken.  If we all choose to follow the same one, it becomes worn, littered, graffitied, crowded, and uninteresting.  We, as individuals, are meant for different paths, stretching in all directions.  There is no trail greater than the rest.  It is nothing but tragic when we ignore our gut and allow ourselves to be swayed to a different path.  The greatest tragedy, however, is if we attempt to drag someone else down ours.

While the great trails of the world that lead to famous mountain peaks and deep clear lakes are beautiful and inspiring, that moment sitting with our packs on that ridge was not meant for those places.  It could have only happened there, in a little known valley of the Luxembourgish Ardennes.  It was perfect.  It was absolutely necessary.  It was designed for us and no one else.

So, I did not fear being there.  I feared not being there.  I fear consciously abandoning my trail.

A Guide for the Guides

If you live somewhere far from your family or where you grew up there is a chance that you may have visitors from time to time. If you live near a place that is a tourist destination, you can count on it.  Having visitors from home is one of the highlights of being an expat.  It's always a pleasure to spend time with family and friends who come to visit us in Luxembourg.  Part of the time is always spent showing people around.  We've had quite a few people come through since our relocation and each time we learn something new about being guides.  So, here are our top tips for being a tour guide.

1. Know your audience.

Some visitors may be seasoned travelers, others may have just disembarked from their first flight.  Some people like shopping, others art, others prefer trying new food and drink.  It helps to make plans that take your visitor's interests into account.  If they do not travel often or haven't visited your area before, make sure they get to see the big sights, even if you have visited them 1,000 times.  While the sights may have lost their luster for you, being apart someone's first visit is always a lot fun.  Ask them what they would like to see and do and plan accordingly.

On the same note, when you're walking around (and you will be walking around a lot) you may be finding yourself wanting to point out some sights along the way.  Your audience's level of interest dictates how much detail you should to go into.  Months ago we had some visitors who were fascinated by pre-Roman and Roman history.  For me they were sponges, greedily soaking up all the historical details I was happily sharing with them.  Of course, most visitors aren't eager students of early European history.  For them, it's best to stick with big names and dates that they would be familiar with.
We've yet to host anyone with an interest in cycling...sigh.

2.  Allow some free time.

Unless you have a minor visiting, adults are capable of doing their own thing.  Allow your visitors to do so.  If someone wants to go shopping up and down the Champs-Élysées, by all means let them.  You do not have to hold their hand every waking moment.  We found that planning some free time for everyone is really helpful.  Everybody has the chance to do their own thing and then we can all meet up afterwards.  That way if your guests want to spend some time in high end boutiques and all you want is a table at a cafe, everyone gets what they're after.

3. Pace yourself.

Some guests like to do their sightseeing at a relaxed speed.  Others down coffee all day and won't want to quit until about 3am.  If your pace matches your guests, cool.  If it doesn't, make sure you compromise.  If someone ends up overstretched they could wear out and tensions could rise.  That's why scheduling regular free time is so important.

4.  Show them your favorites.

Whether it's a hidden spot for a drink or a quiet park in Paris no one knows about, take your guests to places that are special to you, not the guide books.  For example, there's an Indian Restaurant we that we always take visitors to.  Obviously, they don't serve local cuisine, but the the owner and his family are fabulous and the food is always spot on.  We eat there almost every week.  While most guests are interested in seeing the famous places, they really enjoy getting to see how we live day to day.  Even though the grocery store is far from being a favorite place for us, our guests often enjoy a stroll through the aisles.  For them, it's a peek into our lives as expats.

5.  Provide some challenges.

Part of traveling is pushing the borders of your comfort zone.  Whether it's trying new foods or a new experience, travel is the best way to broaden your horizons.  Some people are more open to this aspect than others, but everyone should have the chance to experience the thrill of trying something new.  As a guide it's important to make sure your guests have a few challenges.  Give them the opportunity to eat local delicacies, encourage them to take in a sight or go shopping on their own so they can interact with locals and see the place for themselves.  Of course, don't abandon them altogether, but a little push for adventure opens the door for them to have memories that are all their own.

So, whether you live a few states over or on the other side of the globe, those are 5 things to keep in mind when you are playing tour guide for your visitors.  But, no matter what you do or where you go, the most important thing is for everyone to enjoy themselves.  While they are getting the chance to see new places, you have the chance to spend time with special people who bring a little bit of home with them.

I Found Myself Within A Forest Dark

When I was about fourteen or fifteen I picked a hefty volume off the shelf in my bedroom.  Like all the other books in the classics collection my parents had purchased for me when I was an infant, it was bound in leather with gilt etchings in the cover and golden page edges.  I have no idea why I chose The Divine Comedy over the other classics on the shelf like Wuthering Heights  or Robinson Crusoe, but I did.  For some reason the medieval poetry didn't stop me from reading through Inferno or Purgatorio, but somewhere I faltered in Paradiso, exhausted.  Like Franz Liszt, I suppose, all my energy had been spent trudging through the darker realms of Dante's afterlife and I couldn't put much effort into the final rewarding conclusion.  Sometime later, I returned to Paradise and finished it.  But, it was a disjointed reading.  Well over a decade later, I've returned to that same volume to begin again from the start.  "Midway upon the journey of our life..."

Alighieri's unparalleled work has had quite the influence on the world.  Some say he was greater than Shakespeare.  His original written dialect became modern Italian.  The images of Hell, Purgatory, and Heaven directly created the common held views of those places today.  The Bible itself makes vague mention of the afterlife, so Dante has filled in the blanks for the human imagination.  The Divine Comedy is one of the most significant works of literature and has permeated the Western psyche.  For example, I often refer to visiting the grocery store as a journey through the rings of Hell.

But as I began my second reading another parallel struck me.  In a day or so we will be hosting some family members from the US.  We've had many visitors come and go from our house since our relocation, but this case is unique in that these visitors will be experiencing their first ever trip outside of the United States.  This is a huge life moment for all of them, and I can imagine in many ways it feels a lot like standing in the middle of a dark forest wondering where to go.  Of course, here the parallel abruptly ends.  In no way can I compare a brief tour through the region to traveling through any part of the afterlife, let alone Hell.  But, thinking back to the first time I ever left home for some place more exotic than Niagara Falls, I do remember a sense of great trepidation, even fear.

There is nothing like one's first trip.  It's an experience that can never be repeated or compared to.  Everything, from going through customs to encountering "foreign" bed linens is a new and exciting experience.  While you feel like a fish out of water, you can't help but look forward to what's around the bend.  It's a rush, and at the end of the journey, brief or long, you find yourself a different person.  For many of us who keep planning trips, we're after that feeling of another scary thrill and the rewarding feeling at the end.  We never find the same one we had the first time we set foot off the plane.  But, the beautiful thing about travel is, it always provides that sought after new experience.  No matter how it goes down, we always come back a little more enlightened than before.

I have to admit, I'm very excited to be apart of someone's first step down the unlit path.  While we're certainly no Virgil, it is an honor so serve as guides.  It will be our first time serving that capacity to virgin travelers.  I expect that to be an experience in and of itself.  Hopefully, no one's journey over the next 10 days is anything like a Canto from The Divine Comedy, unless it is from Paradiso, of course.  My desire is for everyone to have a trip for which they are grateful to have taken when they "walked out once more beneath the stars."

No matter what happens, I'm sure to have a list of do's and don'ts to share with those who may be playing Virgil in the future.