Thursday, April 24, 2014

Hitting the Alpine Trails

So, hiking in Europe is a pretty big deal.  They don't do it like we do in the States.  Being out in the backcountry, carrying everything you need to live on your back, filtering your water, and obsessing about bears is an incredible experience that I can't recommend enough- seriously.  But in Europe, long distance backpacking is more a leisure activity, not an exercise in survival.  You don't carry dehydrated food, you don't even need a tent.  In the very popular spots, there's food and drink along the way and there's a bed of sorts available at the end of the day.  Of course, that all comes from the fact that Europe has a lot more people in it.  You're never far from civilization.  And that can make the walking all day thing a whole lot of fun.  Did I mention there was beer?  If you love backpacking in the States you'll love it just as much in Europe.  Maybe more.

The Alps, be it the French, Swiss, Italian, Slovenian, Austrian, or German (not to mention the Liechtensteiner and Monacan), is one of the most popular places to go for a hike, wander, or trek.  Let me tell you, you've never hiked in a place quite like this.  Over the holiday weekend we drove down to the Austrian Alps to get some quality mountain time.  Usually, April is the off season in the mountains, bridging the gap between ski season and the warm weather that permits high altitude trekking and climbing.  Thanks to the unseasonably warm weather this Spring the higher trails were mostly accessible despite one overnight light dusting.


The great thing about hiking in Alpine countries is that people have been doing that sort of thing there for quite some time.  The trails are well established and well marked.  The maps (available at every little tourist information office in every little town) are proper maps.  They're waterproof, have scales and keys, and they have topo lines. They're basically USGS grade and this makes me very happy.  You'd be surprised how rare it is to find tourist maps at this level of detail, and a good map can make or break a hike.  Well, all the maps produced by the tourist bureaus in the Alps are good.  Between the signs at every trail intersection (they're even in the really barren, hard to get to places) and these perfect maps, you don't have to worry about losing your way.  You can plan a route down to the minute.  Plus, along the way there are huts (also labeled on the map).  These huts aren't just lean-tos with a picnic bench.  A lot of them are staffed, rent beds, and serve meals.  One that we came across brewed beer, pretty good beer actually.  There are trails everywhere.  All are labeled on the maps and points of interest are indicated on the trail with walking time.  They even color code the trails for difficulty level.




Despite the cushy support system, the trails can still kick your butt.  Sure, some of the hut to hut circuits stay more or less on the flats and are family friendly.  But, head up a little higher and bring your trekking poles and a good set of boots because you'll be scrambling, balancing on cliff edges, and possibly tackling some snow.  Head a little higher and there are via ferrata routes or bring your ropes and pitons.  Anyway you want to do it, you'll have fun.  Beer, alpine cheese, and hot coffee aren't that far off.  Of course, it's the scenery that makes a good hike, and the Alps have good scenery in spades.







So, if you're visiting Europe take some time away from the cities and sightseeing, grab a daypack, strap on your boots, and go for a walk in the Alps.  You won't be disappointed.

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