The Essentials of Travel

We are often asked for travel tricks and tips by those preparing to spend some time in Europe.  Many ask, "What do I need to know that may not be in the guidebooks?"  Others need some help packing.  International travel (and packing for it) can be an intimidating process if experience is limited.  But, like everything else, the more you do it the easier it is.  Of course, even if you travel frequently in the United States and have the logistical end of things well mastered, the game is a little different for international travel.  So, what should you know/do/pack if you're coming over to Europe?  Here are some things we've picked up over the last year and a half that you may find useful.

1.  Get some good luggage.  Now, I don't mean buy a full set at the department store.  If you only have two bags to schlep through the airport, on the train, the bus, and up those twisty hotel steps, getting from point A to B is going to much easier on you and your back.  I bring two bags- a backpack and a small carry-on sized suitcase with wheels.  The backpack keeps my hands free to manage doors and the suitcase is lightweight and maneuverable.  Once I'm at my destination the backpack takes over as my camera bag & day bag.  Purses really aren't practical for sightseeing trips unless you can carry yours over your shoulder.  If you're sightseeing you will want a bag that can take a beating and keep on trucking.  I highly recommend one that has a built in rain cover.  You may laugh, but we'll see who's laughing after that afternoon flash storm in Barcelona.  If you plan on bringing photo equipment, see about getting a bag that can carry it safely and also has room for other things you want during the day.  Having to carry a separate bag for the camera is a pain.

2.  The most important skill to master for traveling whether you're going abroad or a few states over is how to pack light.  How do you pack light?  Seriously look at your travel plans before you start packing.  Are you walking a lot for sightseeing?  Will you be solo?  Meeting people?  Attending a nice dinner with a group?  Unless there is a reason on your schedule to bring a specific outfit, ie. athletic clothing, evening wear, etc., leave that stuff at home.  But what if something comes up?  Then have things that you can make work.  Focus on versatile attire.  For example, slacks that can go casual or business casual.  Remember, trousers are heavy, but good ones can work for many days.  Only bring a couple pairs (including the ones you wear on the plane).  Shoes can be a big hang up for people.  My tip:  Leave your cute wedges that go with that one skirt at home.  Pack one (maybe two) pairs of shoes that will go with everything in your suitcase.  Make sure that everything you pack is comfortable.  But, avoid throwing items in that scream "tourist" like your Disney World t-shirt and your bright white New Balance sneakers.  Think about it this way, would you wear that if you weren't traveling?  If not ask yourself why you think you need it.  Do you?  Really?  A safari hat in Rome?  We'll get to avoiding tourist behavior later.  As for toiletries, except for items that you personally need such as cosmetics, medication, or allergy free products, you don't have to bring everything with you.  Hotels usually have shampoos, soaps, and hairdryers.  You can pick up other items as needed once you're there.

3.  Here are the essential things I always carry in my day bag.
- Tissues.  Besides having them on hand for their intended purpose, they will you save from the inevitable "the bathroom doesn't have toilet paper" situation.  It happens more often then you would think.
- Hand sanitizer.  Some people think it's lame, but seriously you will find soap even less than you find toilet paper (yes, even in Paris).  Additionally, not everyone has the hygiene standards you do.  You don't want to take home a souvenir virus or worse have one strike in the middle of your trip.  Pro tip: If you're squeamish, pay public restrooms are much cleaner than ones in restaurants and cafes.  You get what you pay for.
- Pocket Knife.  You may need to slice your takeaway pizza in half, open a stubborn package, or do some minor repairs on clothing.  A trusty, simple pocket knife can solve many problems.  Now, keep in mind that there are more knife laws in Europe than the United States.  Traditional pocket knives are OK, just make sure the blade isn't spring loaded, double edged, or long.  Need a guideline?  A traditional Swiss Army knife is a good standard.
- Corkscrew/Bottle Opener.  I can't tell you how much time we've wasted looking for something to pop a cap off with before we finally started carrying a bottle opener on us.  Go for the corkscrew/church key combo so you can tackle any beverage container challenge.
- First Aid Kit.  A small bag with some Band Aids, pain killers, and antibiotic cream can take care of minor needs (careful with that pocket knife!) so you don't have to go on a pharmacy hunt.  Pro Tip:  24 Hour pharmacies are rarities and few are open on Sundays.  Carry the basics and avoid the hassle.  Over-the-Counter medication isn't common on the Continent, even aspirin can cost quite a bit and must be purchased from a pharmacist.
- Hard copies.  Even in the age of smart phones and tablets, it's still best to have a paper backup for your hotel/flight/train information, a map, and a phrasebook.  Don't expect WiFi and 3G to be as available or reliable as it is in the States.  Even if you don't end up needing it, play it safe.  Pro Tip:  If you end up losing your Passport, a photocopy can go a long way in the replacement process at the Embassy.

Some other essentials: An electric converter to charge electronics, a coin purse, and travel journal to stash mementos
and jot down some thoughts.

4.  Bring a camera that you know how to use.  Even if all you have is a smartphone, that'll do.  You will want to have pictures of your trip and loved ones will want to see them.  Don't run out to the camera shop and buy the best one on the shelf without knowing how to take pictures with it.  I can't tell you how many people I see with high end cameras that they have set to Auto.  If you want to take a camera but you're not into photography, just go with a point and shoot and save some space and money.  Pro tip:  Never, ever, and I mean ever, use your Tablet as a camera.  Ever.  No excuses.

5.  Find balance.  No, I don't mean start off every day meditating in your hotel room (unless you want to).  Balance your plans for the trip.  If every day is packed with sightseeing and tours, you're going to burn out, you will get bored, and you'll get cranky.  Have days for sightseeing focusing on stuff that you want to see and do, not what the guidebooks say you have to see and do (personally, I found the Mona Lisa to be overrated).  Schedule in relaxing pursuits.  Even plan on sleeping in one or two days.  You'll thank yourself for the breaks.  Even if you love cities, still make sure you get out into the countryside so you can see more traditional culture, the natural beauty of Europe,  and be in a more relaxing environment for a little down time.

6.  Be a tourist without being one.  Don't be the ugly American.  Travelers that have fully embraced the tourist look are targets for pickpockets and they are incredibly annoying for the rest of us.  There's more to this than what you wear.  Body language and public behavior are just as important.  Besides leaving your safari hat and Hawaiian shirt at home, pay attention to what you are doing when you're out and about.  Watch where you are walking.  Take a note of how locals cross streets and interact in public.  If you need to consult a map, don't suddenly stop without warning to do so in the middle of the crowded town square.  A confused group of people turning round and round pointing at stuff is a dead giveaway.  It's OK to be confused, just don't make it obvious that you are.  Also, match your speaking volume to those around you.  This is a courtesy thing.  We Americans can be be pretty loud, especially at meal times.  While that is fine at Applebee's, it is extremely inappropriate in just about every European restaurant.  Pro Tip:  While they may not always admit it, many Europeans can understand English.  So, while you may not be able to understand their conversations, there's a good chance they can understand yours.  Don't be a jerk.

7.  Shop outside the box.  Whether you're picking up something for yourself or a gift for someone back home, look for things that are locally made and representative of the place.  Even better, look for something you can use back home so every time you do you can remember your trip.  Boutiques, art districts, and markets are the places to go for these items.  If you're lucky you can talk to the craftsman and get a more personal take on your purchase.

8.  Rent houses or apartments instead of staying in hotels.  Believe it or not, in most cases short term rentals will be significantly cheaper than a hotel for the same amount of time.  With a rental you can get more space and more options.  Many of them have kitchens so you can save a ton of money (and have more fun) by going to the local market and cooking up some regional products a couple evenings during your stay.  Most landlords are also locals and if you can communicate (many speak English), they can answer questions and give ideas that a concierge may not know.  Plus, your money isn't going to a big hotel chain, but right into the local economy.  With websites like HomeAway you can set all sorts of criteria in your search from pet friendly to internet access.

9.  Take the roads less traveled.  Public transportation systems in most Europe are lightyears beyond those in the States and it can usually be figured out easily.  But, if you do plan on getting a car for a more flexible travel schedule, get a GPS and don't be afraid to set it to "Avoid Highways."  Highway congestion, especially in summer, is as bad as morning rush hour but it lasts all day (and no, not just around Brussels).  By jumping off the highway you usually add very little travel time and you get to see the countryside and cool little spots you would never have come across.  Sometimes these little adventures are the best part of the trip!

10.  Attitude is everything.  If you step off the plane terrified of where you're headed, you aren't going to have a lot of fun.  If you go by cultural stereotypes you are going to miss out on meeting a lot of cool people.  Sure, there are jerks out there, but remember there are jerks in your hometown too.  Learn a few words of the language; the big ones- Please, thank you, hello, and goodbye.  Showing respect goes a long way with everyone.  Smile when you interact with people.  If they're not used to talking in your language, they are probably a little uncomfortable too.  If you start everyday with a good attitude and ready for a little adventure, you will have a well-rounded experience and you'll have a blast.

So, those are my ten big tips for traveling in Europe, and, I guess, traveling in general.  Hope they help you on your trips.  The important thing is being willing to ditch the all-inclusive resorts, the theme parks, and the cruise ships and get out there.  Traveling abroad will change your life.  Enjoy the journey!

The One About Chocolate

We all love chocolate.  OK, some of you out there don't, which I find very perplexing.  Anyway, most of us out there love chocolate.  Some of us, including myself, have rather strong feelings about it.  Except for special exceptions, dessert isn't dessert if there is no chocolate involved.  Now, in the quest for a more healthy lifestyle, the love of chocolate can be a bit of a hang up.  Tragically, one must pass on the delicious ice creams (sometime let me tell you about the glory of Mövenpick), in favor of healthier desserts.  Thankfully, chocolate can still make an appearance in the dessert bowls of those who love it dearly.

Chocolate, and when I say chocolate I mean Dark Chocolate, is known for its health benefits.  According to the Cleveland Clinic, consumption of dark chocolate that has not been overly refined in the production process can help lower bad cholesterol (LDL) and lower blood pressure, which increases blood flow throughout the body- which decreases the chance of heart attacks and strokes.  Dark chocolate is also rich in antioxidants which combat inflammation and it helps to raise insulin sensitivity in the blood, which helps your body process carbohydrates with more efficiency. For those leading an athletic lifestyle these benefits are particularly attractive.  Of course, you can't stuff yourself with it either.  The Cleveland Clinic recommends eating just an ounce (28g) a couple times a week. You also need to keep an eye on the label.  Sixty to seventy percent dark is where you want to start, if you can tolerate a stronger percentage that's even better.  Go any lower than 60% and you're mostly just getting other additives and not the ingredients you're after.  Don't even bother with Milk or White chocolates. Thankfully, several high end chocolate manufactures produce bars within these requirements.

One widely available brand, Lindt from Switzerland, produces a range of bars under the Excellence label that begin in 70% level and go all the way up to the 99% cocoa level.  Lindt is my personal go to choice because I can usually find it everywhere I go, from the American Midwest to Alpine Villages to the coast of Spain.  Other brands, such as Green & Black's, aren't as widely available.

http://www.lindtusa.com/index-exec/

The Excellence line can be found in nearly every grocery store in the United States and Europe.  Of course, this line also includes a wide variety of flavored bars- everything from wasabi paste to strawberry.  These flavored bars have a reduced percentage of cocoa, so they don't have the same level of healthy ingredients as the pure bars.  However, with many of the flavors coming from natural, non-sugary sources, I don't have a problem enjoying them from time to time too.  Sea Salt, Chili, and Mint are my personal favorites.  The flavors come from including the natural ingredient directly into the chocolate, instead of using synthetic syrups.  For example, the Intense Orange bar contains dried orange bits.

The Lindt Excellence line can take care or your chocolate fix in it's preferred, healthful form.  Two squares are 20 grams, your recommended serving.  So, if you love chocolate and want to make it apart of your diet in a healthy way, I recommend keeping an eye out for Lindt's Excellence.  No doubt you'll find something to relish amongst the selection.

How My Bike Is Saving My Life

The 100th Tour de France begins tomorrow.  For cycling fans this is what the year comes down to.  For the rest of the world, this is the only professional race they have heard of.  Rightly so.  It's a doozy.  While I waited along with you for the Tour of Tours to begin, I've spent a lot of time over the last few days thinking not so much about this upcoming competition or even the professional level of road racing.  Instead, I've been thinking about my personal relationship with the bicycle.  As the great race begins, we all enter into the second half of 2013.  Halfway through the year seems like a good time to assess how far we've come, with an eye to where we're headed.  The bicycle and I have come a long way together and I'm not just talking the kilometers we've travelled.  Like any journey, the past six months have been about more than distance covered.

Last week, my husband and I traveled home to Akron, Ohio.  We had been looking forward to this trip for quite a long time, probably about 6 months actually.  A year had passed since we had been home.  A lot had happened in that year.  We experienced things and saw places we'd only ever read about.  It had been, without a doubt, an incredible 365 days.  But, despite all that, we were really looking forward to visiting the familiar again.  We couldn't wait to see friends and family.  We looked forward to all sorts of things about home, not the least of which being all the edible delights.  Of course, we were looking forward to shopping too.  I was going to go to Walgreens for Band-Aids at midnight, just because I could.  But, one of the things I was most looking forward to was my annual checkup with my general practitioner.  Yeah, I know that sounds really bizarre.  It's true, though.  I couldn't wait to sit down with my doctor and chat about how my health had changed since the big move to Lux.

Never thought this rather lifeless view of the old hometown would warm the cockles of my heart.

The past six months have been, well, all about the bike.  I was determined to be at or very darned near a place physically where I could ride all day, every day.  I wanted to become a cyclist.  Really.  Through that process I wanted to get in the best shape of my life.  Ever.  Why?

I don't want to jostle for position in a crit or suffer through a stage race.  While I love to watch the competition, to me participating in such an event is about as desirable as a root canal.  I don't even want a QOM on Strava.  Heck, when I was a kid I'd intentionally misspell words in spelling B's so I wouldn't have to go head to head with my friends in front of the school.  The way I see it, we have enough conflict with others in life without purposefully inducing it.  But that's just the way I feel.  I have complete respect for healthy competition and those who participate in it, especially in sport.  But competition is not why I climb on the bike every day.  So, why am I here?

I don't want to wake up one morning wondering how I let things go so far.  I don't want to be popping pills for conditions I could have avoided by just living a healthy lifestyle.  I don't want to be held back from things I want to do whenever I want to do them.  I don't want to look back on my life at some point and regret a wasted youth.  In short, I want to live.  I want to live my life until the moment I finally clock out of here.

I'd made some mistakes that if continued could derail those hopes.  I knew from experience that the bicycle was going to be my ticket to correcting those mistakes.  We all have something, some sort of physical activity that we can do and love doing.  We just need to figure out what it is and then run with it.  For some it's team sports, for others it's solo sports.  For some it's the joy of competing against our peers, for other's it's the joy of competing against ourselves that keeps us coming back.  I never had a doubt about which sport was my thing.  It has always been the bike.  Figuring out exactly how the bike would become my thing has been a longer decision.  The bicycle isn't really like any other piece of sports equipment out there.  It can be used in so many different ways and in so many different disciplines that sometimes finding the one that fits takes a while.  I started on the bike with an interest in transportation that branched into recreation.  Being in Lux simplified things significantly.  I've had the means to discover a real love for road cycling.  So, road cycling is what the bicycle has become for me.  Sure, I'll still take the FX to the store, but when I think of cycling it's me alone (or with my husband), crouched over the drops, on a road somewhere, pushing myself.  Pushing myself to live.

The process started on January 1st, like all good resolutions do, and despite travel and illness it has
continued (miraculously) right up to today.  So, I was pretty excited to see how things stacked up with my doctor's records from the end of 2011.  When the first thing she said to me was, "Whatever you're doing, keep on doing it," I knew things looked good.  Blood pressure, heart rate, and cholesterol numbers have dropped and are exactly (and in some cases better than) where she wants them to be.  But the big story here is weight.  I've lost 40 lbs since I saw her in December 2011.  Thirty of them were lost since January of this year.  That's a big deal.

Everything has its specific place
in my diet.  In espresso's case, it's pre or mid-ride.

Obviously, it isn't just riding my bike that has gotten me to this point.  I wanted to redesign my life around the bike, not just make the bike a part of my life.  To do that I had to change the way I approached what I put in my body and how I helped it recover.  I totally changed the way I ate, from something that usually was the highlight of my day to something that helped me with what was now the highlight of the day- my ride.  High fat, high cholesterol foods weren't going to do me many favors on the bike, so they got reduced on the roster in favor of lean proteins, healthy carbs and other foods that are more efficient fuels.  Cheese, for example, while being one of my most appreciated foods had to be approached differently.  I wasn't going to cut it out all together (no need to be crazy), but I made it something I could enjoy more by giving it a different status in my diet- a special treat to be savored and appreciated, not tossed down without a second thought.  Beer had to be approached differently too.  Once again, I wasn't going to stop drinking it.  I was going to drink it differently.  Instead of going for a local pilsner, I only have beer when there's something available I haven't tried yet or I really like.  If a place doesn't have anything that meets my standards, I'll go for the water instead.  I'd rather wait for something more interesting.  Beer, in fact, is an excellent recovery drink.  So, after some of my more long and hot (there was a week here of proper summer temps) Womens 100 training rides, I'd reward myself with a small beer as a recovery aid.  Truth be told, I didn't cut anything out of my diet completely.  I didn't go vegetarian, paleo, carb free, or sugar free.  I didn't hold back on vacations either.  I use foods for how they can benefit me in my goal to be a cyclist.  Pretty much all foods can help in that process as long as they're used correctly, even bacon can have a role.

Recovery became extremely important too.  I made sure not to go overboard with the cycling, which can be hard to do when you really love it.  I listened to my body.  If something was hurting, I'd back off, do what needed to be done so it could heal, then figure out how to avoid the pain coming back in the future.  I made sure to get plenty of sleep.  I'd shape my meals around fuel and recovery, by eating things before my ride that will help my ride and eating certain things afterwards to help my muscles recover and heal.

I also started noticing some unexpected side-effects.  Cycling has given what could easily become a disjointed purposeless existence as an unemployed expat a focus.  Sure, I have my other interests and hobbies, but skipping out on photography for a few weeks isn't going to have a major negative impact on my health.  The bike keeps me on track.  It gets me up on time and in bed at a decent hour at night.  Additionally, there are mental health benefits to pedaling every day.  Something that they don't tell you in the expat brochure is that a majority of Americans struggle with being in Luxembourg for a long period of time.  Many end up on anti-depressants.  Why?  Well, it's probably for a number of reasons.  Luxembourg is not like the States.  I'm not saying it's a bad place, it's just very different and getting used to it can be hard to deal with.  The weather itself is no doubt a huge factor.  Thankfully, we come from a place in Northeast Ohio that's almost as overcast, but even the endless days of grey rain begin to take their toll on us.  Of course, it probably just comes down to living somewhere far from home, living a completely different lifestyle, and having to handle things you've never dealt with before.  You get lonely.  You get low.  But, at least for me, getting on the bike everyday has thus far combated that low feeling.  It's not just the known mental health benefits of daily exercise that have been there.  I think it has more to do with getting me out in this beautiful country.  During every ride there is a moment when I look up and say, "Wow, I can't believe I get to do this today.  Here.  I'm so incredibly blessed."  After those ride rides that totally kick my butt and then kick me when I'm down I can't help but think, "Europe is beating that crap out of me.  That's still pretty cool."

Have I met my goal of becoming a cyclist?  Yeah, I think so.  I certainly have the tan lines.  But, I have further to go.  That's the really cool thing about cycling.  There's always something else to look forward to.  The Womens 100 ride is next weekend.  When that's over, I'd like to keep up that level of riding to the winter.  When next year comes around, perhaps the goal will be doing 100 Miles instead of 100K.  Someday I want to get to a place with climbing that doesn't feel completely excruciating.   I'd like to look at almost any road, shrug, swing the leg over, clip in, and begin cranking those pedals with more excitement than trepidation.  But, I'd like a road to be out there somewhere that still holds a little dread.
 
Cuz, ya know, that's living.

Do Not Let These Roads Deceive You

We all have those rides that are just perfect.  From the moment we clip in to the final dismount, every moment is a joy.  Perfect rides are uncommon things.  We treasure every single one.

Just one of the views from the roads of the Belgian Ardennes.

It was no surprise to us that one of these rides would happen in Belgium.  I'm not going to tell you the specific route, except that it was around Bastogne.  The roads were devoid of all types of traffic and, well, I'd like to keep it that way.  There's something sweet about clicking into the big ring, getting down in the drops and just going, going for kilometer after kilometer without a care in the world.  We had that for 50kms.  When we weren't in the big ring, we were climbing.  Those climbs were steep and choppy, but clear to attack from whatever angle and pace that worked.  The only other traffic we encountered besides fellow cyclists was a tractor at the bottom of a descent and a tethered horse chilling on the MPU at the end of the ride.  They weren't your common obstacles, but at least they were few.  While it had been threatening rain and thunderstorms, we had hours of sunny bliss.  The storm finally arrived after we returned to our house in Ettelbruck, cleaned up, and had cold Belgian beers in hand.  We couldn't have asked for a better day.

The Bastogne region is a special place.  Cycling fans know it because it is host to La Doyenne, the old Liège-Bastogne-Liège race.  Those who are familiar with a little WWII history know it for being the center of the action during the Battle of the Bulge.  Nearly seventy years later, The War is still a raw memory in these parts.  Even where we live, further to the southeast, the memorials to resistance fighters and liberators dot the landscape.  The church in our town still bears the scars of mortars and bullets.  Plaques are on every corner.  The old synagogue behind our house no longer serves its original purpose.  It is now rented out for meetings and special occasions.  It doesn't take a history expert to figure out why.  There's a picture in the museum a few streets over that shows our street in 1944.  All it shows is one building and a pile of rubble.  Ettelbruck likes to be known as Patton Town, in honor of the famous General who coordinated its liberation on Christmas Day 1944.  There's a big statue erected in his honor just outside the city limits.  All along the line, towns like Ettelbruck were hit hard during Hitler's last attempt to push back against the Allies moving towards Berlin.  There doesn't seem to be any desire to forget that, nor the sacrifices made by allied soldiers and local resistance fighters.

The situation in Bastogne during Christmas 1944.

Bastogne in particular is remembered for being a town under siege.  From December 20-27, 1944 members of the 82nd and 101st Airborne along with the 10th Armored Division became encircled around the town by the Nazis.  They didn't have enough supplies or ammunition because supply drops were stalled due to snow and thick fog.  Despite heavy barrages and hand to hand combat within Bastogne, it never fell to Hitler's forces.  Eventually, with the arrival of Patton's Third Army Bastogne was officially liberated.  It is probably one of the most famous battles in military history and is definitely one of the most significant of World War II.  From that moment on, Hitler didn't have a chance.

The massive Mardasson Memorial above Bastogne commemorates the besieged defenders
who held the town despite heavy Nazi offense during Christmas 1944.

The main historic site, the Mardasson Memorial Visitor Center, is currently closed for remodeling.  The Memorial itself is still open for viewing.  However, down in Bastogne itself there is a small but professionally designed exhibit called "I Was 20 in '45" presenting the perspectives of not just the combatants, but also of the civilians.  The footage from the battle and aftermath is horrific.  The recorded interviews of survivors are just as moving.  I remember in particular an interview of an old woman siting in front of her house in a blue flowered dress, thick framed glasses are perched on her nose.  She looks like just another Belgian grandmother.  In a calm voice she is telling her memories of Christmas 1944.  Her husband had gone off in the woods outside the town with his fellow resistance fighters.  He was shot and killed somewhere along the way.  Their house had been completely destroyed during one of the artillery attacks.  So, she took her newborn and hid in the woods, without food or proper clothing.  She hid there for days, almost completely frozen.  Her child didn't survive.

As we were riding along the roads and trails, past the massive monument that towered above us on the hill, I couldn't help but think that the peaceful woods which we rolled through are still pockmarked with foxholes and bomb craters.  Those pasture lands still hold battle debris and the personal effects of soldiers and civilians.  It seems like a perfect place now, but there is still blood in this landscape.  All along the way are street signs pointing to places like Noville, Bourcy, and Foy.  There'd be a marker here, a fluttering American flag there, unexploded ordinance turned monument a few kilometers later.

I realized that 70 years really isn't that long and that this route we planned wasn't so perfect after all.

Here Are The Facts

Humans have been moving about this planet for some time now.  You would think over millennia of constant migration by foot, wheel, and water that we would have this whole traveling thing figured out.  However, it is quite apparent that most people haven't a clue how to get themselves from one point to another in a responsible and safe manner.  It doesn't matter if they're driving a car, a tractor, a golf cart, walking on their two feet, pedaling a bicycle, or pushing a scooter.  The attitude of many is one of complete self-absorption and disregard of others.  Alas, statistics indicate that this is a global problem.  Deaths by car accident in the United States have been averaging around 30,000 a year for the past four years. In Luxembourg, there have been 4 serious car crashes in the past three days.  Three of those wrecks were fatal.  Sure, we can blame their mode of transport and say cars are the problem, but honestly, unless there is some sort of mechanical failure the cause of the carnage are the drivers themselves.  Their disregard of others is usually the root source.  We focus on cars because they are involved in the most deaths.  Their "accidents" are the most deadly.  But, pedestrians and cyclists and everyone else in between all suffer from the same selfish ignorance.  This is not good.

In an effort to disseminate useful information to the general public here are some facts to help you understand the basics of proper travel behavior, whether you're walking to the store or driving 2,000 miles cross country.

1.)  You are not the only person on the planet.  The first fact of traveling is the most important.  You would think we would all know this.  I mean, obviously there are other people around.  We interact with other people on a daily basis.  But, for some reason many people seem to think they are the only ones on earth when they're out and about.  Newsflash:  Not true!  You cannot move about as if you are completely alone, with total ownership of all roadways, sidewalks, and multi-use paths.  If you do, you or someone else will get hurt or killed.  Master this first fact, and the rest make perfect sense.

2.)  Roadways and pathways are for moving traffic.  Did you know that the first paths on this earth were created so people could get from one place to another easily and as directly as possible? Modern roads and pathways are designed with the same exact purpose!  That's why roads aren't intentionally blocked by obstacles and if an obstacle appears, it is removed immediately.  A blocked road is useless.  Therefore, the next time you are traveling and have an overwhelming urge to stop for whatever reason, move off the road or path.  Roads and paths are for people who are moving.  They are not for family reunions, sunbathing, games of catch, bicycle repair, or changing diapers.  There are other places designed for such purposes.  If you can't tell the difference, you have no business being in public without supervision.

3.)  You are responsible for your dependents.  Traveling with a child or a pet?  Excellent.  Glad to see they are out and about.  But, did you know your children/pets are your responsibility?  It's true!  While it is the public's responsibility to behave in a manner that doesn't endanger your loved one, it is actually your job to keep them out of harms way to begin with.  If you remember Fact #1 you will realize that dog leashes are a necessity and children need to be kept under control.  If you refer to Fact #2 you will realize that the roadway isn't a dog park or a playground.  If your dependents can't behave properly on the roadway then you should take them to one of those facilities.

4.)  Roads and paths can and do have various users.  It is completely legal, unless otherwise posted, for pedestrians and cyclists to be on roads.  While you may not agree with them being there, they have every right to be.  Taking 30 seconds to pass with care isn't going to make you late.  If it does, then you should have left earlier.  Additionally, multi-use paths are, well, MULTI-USE.  Walkers, please refer to Fact #1.  You are are not water.  You do not have to fill all available space on a pathway.  There's nothing shocking or horrifying about a bike being on a path intended for bicycle use.  To prevent any issues, please accept their presence ahead of time and leave space on the path for them.  If you don't, they will ask you to move.  They're not asking you to move because they are horrible people, they are asking you to move because they don't want to hit you.   If they've had to ask you multiple times because you chose to disregard Fact #1, then expect some frustration from them.  Cyclists, you have the responsibility to communicate your presence to slower traffic.  Even if there is room to pass, the decent thing to do is communicate that you intend to pass.  That's just common courtesy.

Finally, and most importantly.

5.)  You and your business never take precedence over another person's life.  It doesn't matter if you're the Queen, the Grand Duke, the President, the Mayor, or the prettiest girl in school.  Your life is not more important than the lives of the other people on the road.  It doesn't matter if you're late to the birth of your first child or your first day at work.  No matter what excuse you give, it never makes killing or injuring someone ok.   Never.  Put the phone down.  That call or text can wait.  Seriously, it can.

There you have it, people.  Those are the facts.  I'm sorry that some of you were never taught them, but it's never too late to learn to something new.  Commit them to memory.  Share them with your friends and loved ones.  Post them in your car, by your walking shoes, or by your bike.  I guarantee that if you accept these things as fact and travel with them in mind, your traveling experiences will go much more smoothly.  Your risk of injury or injuring others will be greatly reduced.  Also, you may notice you are no longer the recipient of gestures or reprimands by random strangers.

See?  Everyone can benefit from a little education and personal responsibility.

Watch a Movie Trailer, Support Women's Cycling

It's no secret that the ladies aren't getting their due in the professional cycling scene.  The ignorance and disrespect of women's professional cycling by the UCI (the sport's governing body), race organizers, and the media is so complete that it is embarrassing.  The attitudes are practically medieval.

While American professional cycling fans are often exasperated by the limited coverage men's racing gets by the national sports media, that coverage is light years beyond what the women receive- Zero. Of course, things aren't much better in Europe.  I've seen a total of three broadcasted women's races on Eurosport in the last year and a half- the 2012 Worlds, the Olympic Road Race, and the Olympic Time Trial.  Well, since the Summer Olympics only come around once every four years, that makes the average number of broadcasted women's races at 1.5 a year.  However, keep in mind that if the broadcasters decide something else is more interesting, that coverage could be cancelled altogether.  Those watching this year's Amgen Tour of California witnessed just such a move from broadcasters when the coverage of the Women's Time Trial was limited to two, two riders.  Then, the coverage cut to the men's competition, after a significant period of blank air time.  Somehow in their minds, a black screen was more interesting than the women's competition.  Talk about a slap in the face.

For those fans who are aware of the feats being performed in the women's circuit, the denial of witnessing it is extremely frustrating and angering.  I can only imagine what it does to the athletes themselves.  Not only do they have to deal with being ignored, they aren't given the same monetary incentives as the men.  The minimum wage is significantly lower than their male counterpart's.

As fans, what can be done?  Well, as we know from all its past and current sins, the UCI isn't going to make the right decision of its own accord.  However, that doesn't mean we should just accept this offense, shrug our shoulders in defeat, and keep our mouths shut.  If there's one thing we've learned from all the doping scandals, speaking out and making noise is the best weapon for change.  It may take a while, but if enough of us scream, something will happen.

Thankfully, someone is trying to make some noise and you can be apart of it.  Journalist and author Kathryn Bertine has been a professional cyclist since 2007.  She has teamed up with filmmaker Kevin Tokstad to create the documentary "Half the Road."  It features interviews with top female cyclists, athletes, and others to explore exactly what women's racing is all about as well as the injustices inflicted on the sport from the powers that be.  The trailer is pretty exciting and I look forward to seeing the final product.

www.halftheroad.com

So, the great thing about this project is that you can support it.  They are currently in need of donations to make this documentary a reality.  In November 2013, the final film will be ready for public screenings. So, if you have the capability to host a screening *I'm looking at you bike shop owners* you can sign up on the website.  Why should you give your support to this project?  Because women's cycling is in desperate need of support.  Projects like this documentary can reach outside the small niche of fans who already know what these ladies are doing.  The stories and performances of women like Kristin Armstrong, Ina-Yoko Tuetenberg, Evelyn Stevens, and Marianne Vos are just as powerful and in some cases more so than those in the men's peloton.  The trouble is, no one knows it yet.

Why should people outside the sport know about women's racing?  Because when the public starts hearing about all the positive things going on they're going to get interested, and when the public gets interested that's when the sport grows.  Hate to bring it up as evidence, but we all remember the Armstrong effect on recreational riding in the States back in the '90's.  Imagine what Vos would do for the sport if the public actually heard about her.  In many ways the slights being felt by professional ladies has trickled down to the rest of us.  Cycling is still marketed as a boy's club.  So, my weekend warrior sisters and I constantly struggle against a prejudiced industry.  Maybe with some positive media coverage (heck, any coverage) women would begin to feel more comfortable about road cycling.  Maybe they wouldn't feel like they don't belong anymore.  Perhaps companies would take the women's market seriously.  Maybe women riders would enjoy the same product variety and availability the boys get.  Perhaps we too could step into the LBS and find what we're after instead of scouring the internet.   Maybe, maybe we could get some respect on the roads.  Maybe one day we won't have to wear pink.

Sigh...A girl can dream, right?

Anyway, I suggest that you support this film project if you're aware of and annoyed by the wrongs being committed against the women's professional peloton.  Even if you're only slightly aware of what's going on, your support of Half the Road will benefit the sport of cycling as a whole.  These women are just as committed, just as hardcore as the boys.  They deserve the same respect.  This film may help them get it, and no harm will come from that.

For more information visit the the project's website at www.halftheroad.com.

The Place

Forty-five miles southeast of Salzburg lies a cool black lake, the surface of which barely shows a ripple.  Above the lake tower the mountains of the limestone alps, snow still resting on the heads and shoulders of the loftier peaks.  Waterfalls cascade down to the lake from unseen heights above.  Perched precariously on the slopes of one of the mountains is a village.  This village is the place.

People first began to settle this secluded spot in what is now Austria at least 7,500 years ago.  Why?  For the same reason people settle anywhere, they found a resource.  In this particular case, the resource was one of humanity's most important minerals, salt.

wikipedia.org

Salt is a necessary element to the survival of every living thing as it is responsible for water regulation in the body.  If you have too little salt in your system, you can become quite sick, even die.  Too much, and you have similar problems.  Of course, salt is important to humans for other reasons.  We put it on our food to add flavor.  Until canning and refrigeration were developed, salt was used to preserve food, especially meats, for long term storage.  So, when humans first arrived here and noticed salt brine pouring out of mountain springs, they knew they were onto something.  Initially, the salt brine was collected in earthen jars and the liquid was evaporated off, leaving the salt crystals behind.  Sometime during the Late Bronze Age, the first systematic mining began using simple tools like deer antlers.  Later, during the Iron Age, salt production had become so successful it led to the cultivation of a highly sophisticated settlement.  Hallstatt means "salt settlement," from the Celtic word Hall- meaning salt.  The village's archaeological site from the Iron Age became the type site of what is now known as Hallstatt Culture.  Hallstatt Culture is the first definitive period of the broader Celtic culture, the largest prehistoric and protohistoric people group in  Europe until its Roman takeover in the first century BC.  Salt production in Hallstatt has been carried out nearly continuously until present day.  The salt mine above the village is the oldest in the world.

View over Hallstatt from the salt mine.

Today people come to Hallstatt for a number of reasons.  Tourism, not salt, is the village's main source of income.  As the local population numbers decline, the villagers rent out rooms to tourists in their massive 18th Century alpine family dwellings.  The salt mine, while still in operation, is now also open to the public where they can learn about the prehistoric miners, geology.  You can ride mine carts and slides all while wearing the provided coveralls.  Another attraction is the Hallstatt Museum which relates the history and archaeology of Hallstatt in modern exhibitions.  Probably the most interesting sight in town is the ossuary behind the Catholic church.  Until rather recently, graves in the tiny Catholic cemetery were disinterred to make room for new tenants every 10 years.  The bones of the former occupants were cleaned, the skulls painted with their names and dates along with some flowers, and then stacked in the ossuary for display.

Besides these unique sights, the real attraction is the town itself.  It is the quintessential Alpine village.  Hallstatt will provide you perfect postcard photos no matter the direction or season.  The restaurants serve fresh fish from the lake and rivers.  As mentioned before, the accommodations are the guest rooms in the beautiful houses of the village.  The shopping is quite unique for a tourist town.  Nearly every shop sells distinctive locally made goods from ceramics, to jewelry, to soaps, to woodcrafts.  You can even buy lamps made of salt from the mine.  There are also places in town to pick up outdoor gear, for those visiting the region for its recreational offerings.

Mountain biking, backpacking, day hiking, rock climbing, and scuba diving are all popular sports in the area.  Gondolas can take visitors up to the higher peaks or people can choose one of the many alpine trails to reach these stunning places on foot.  The tight roads along with the high traffic of buses and out of town drivers doesn't lend the area well for road cycling, at least in my opinion.  But, to be quite honest, this isn't an area you want to speed through.  You will want to savor this place.

The Roman copy of the Hellenic original, The Dying Gaul.

wikipedia.org

We went to Hallstatt for the archaeology.  As a young student, it was the Celts, not the Romans, Greeks, or Egyptians that captured my interest.  Today, the terms Celt and Celtic generally refers to the non-English inhabitants and culture of the British Isles and most specifically the Irish.  However, from approximately 800 BC until 1 BC, the Celts were the dominant people of continental Europe.  Their towns, scared places, and trade networks were well established when the Romans were still herding goats on Palatine hill.  They were farmers, merchants, artisans, doctors, poets, astronomers, craftsmen, and warriors.  They were just as influential on European history as their rival Romans.  Their territory stretched from Ireland to Romania, and as far south as the Portuguese coast.  Celtic colonies have been found in the Ukraine and Turkey.  The famous Gauls of France were in fact Celts.  They sacked Rome in 390 BC and clashed with Julius Caesar during the Gallic Wars over 300 years later.  Celts founded the city of Milan in northern Italy and it was to Celts that Paul evangelized to in Galatia 50 years after the death of Christ.  Celtic influence can be seen all over the continent today, over 2,000 years after their final defeat at the battle of Alesia.  The country code for Switzerland, CH, comes from the country's romantic name- Confoederatio Helvetica.  The Helvetii were the Celts of Switzerland during Rome's expansion into the continent.  Belgium gets its name from the Belgae tribe.  While France gets its name from the Franks, a Germanic tribe, genetically a majority of the French population is Celtic and their language is a blend of Celtic languages and Latin, hence why it looks like a Latin language, but doesn't quite sound like one.  The regional languages spoken in Brittany, Breton and Gallo, are Celtic languages.  The populations of Austria, Switzerland, and Belgium are also still quite Celtic in ancestry, despite millennia of migration and conflict.  Today, the last recognizable Celtic "nations" are Ireland, Scotland, Brittany, Cornwall, Wales, and the Isle of Man.  Alas, I digress.  The point is, the Celts of the continent were a vibrant people who tend to get skipped over in the history books.  That's what happens when you don't write things down.  Although they, like the Romans, had rich histories and mythologies, this knowledge was passed down generation to generation through stories and song.  They never recorded them with the written word.  Documentation was left to their Roman conquerors who, understandably, weren't exactly objective.

Monument to the archaeology of Johann Georg Ramsauer in Hallstatt.

mshanks.com

That's where archaeology and the village of Hallstatt come in.  In 1846, the salt mine foreman, Johann Georg Ramsauer, discovered an ancient grave on the hillside near the mine entrance.  He and his team subsequently excavated over 1,000 burials on the hillside.  His excavation techniques were remarkable by modern field standards.  He removed the soil layer by layer, took copious detailed notes, and created beautiful watercolors of each grave.  Hallstatt has one of the largest and richest cultural deposits from this period of prehistory and the site fleshed out our understanding of the culture that thus far had only been identified in Roman texts as a barbarian horde.  The grave goods of Hallstatt showed the Celts to be far from brutish barbarians.  Not only were the finds themselves extremely important for the narrative of Iron Age Europe, but Ramsauer's techniques helped to modernize the field of archaeology.  For those of us that have spent time studying this period, Hallstatt is a well-known name.  Since I first read about the place almost 20 years ago, it stuck in my mind.  There are very few places on earth that are not only that culturally significant, but also so stunning to look upon.

It meant a great deal to me to visit Hallstatt, mostly because of its significance in inspiring my eventual studies in history and archaeology.  There was something about that secluded place on the lake with its clues to history in the hillside and forgotten salt mine chambers that captured my imagination and eventually had me take up a trowel.  In the back of my mind, I had hoped to visit this site who's personal importance outweighed the Forum, Pompeii, the Pyramids of Giza, or the Serpent Mound.  It turned out to be even more enjoyable than I had imagined.  Besides the archaeology, all the other wonderful aspects of Hallstatt make a visit worthwhile.  I imagine that's why it is such a popular destination for people from all over the world.  In fact, it is so popular with the Chinese that there is an exact replica of the village in Huìzhōu.  Despite its popularity for tourists, Hallstatt and the region still manages to keep ahold of itself.  When the buses leave for the day, it is just a regular Austrian village.  The locals chat on the streets, boats head to and from their garages to fish the Hallstätter See, on Sundays the townsfolk can be seen wearing their dirndls and trachts.  While they no doubt tire a bit from the constant parade of foreign tourists through their town, you'd never know it.  No matter if you're stepping into a shop, restaurant or the museum you will always be met with a cheery smile.

While I'm sure to keep on traveling, I have a strong suspicion that Hallstatt, Austria has become and will remain The Place.  There have only been a couple spots to make the "must return to" list, most of them have tall mountains and clear water.  However, this place has that extra special something, something that has me saying we need to go back.  Again and again.