Paris in December

When I sat down last week to write this post it was the morning after the Charlie Hebdo attacks.  I had "write about Paris" at the top of Thursday's to-do list since Monday.  But, in the wake of the tragedy, I found myself staring at a blinking cursor for over an hour, completely incapable of finding anything to say.  Writing about photographing Paris seemed inappropriate or insensitive, I'm not sure.  I closed out Blogger and decided to come back later.  So, here I am back the following week still not 100% sure about this post, and troubled in my spirit.

There are three cities that I adore, love so much they almost seem a part of the family in some way.  I'm not from them, and I haven't lived in them.  But, when we visit them, being there always brings us joy, a joy you can't help but mention, one that causes a smile to be plastered rather stupidly on one's face for the extent of the visit.  Most cities have the opposite effect.  In fact, I would happily exchange a weekend in a city for one in the mountains 9 out of 10 times.  But, New York City, Ghent, and Paris are special and will draw us back again and again.  Paris, well, it stands above the other two.  It may be cliche to say Paris is my favorite city, but honestly I don't care.  It's magic.  If you go, you'll get it.  If you don't get it, then you didn't do it right.  There's more to it than its architecture, history, shopping (if you're into that), food, and cultural spots.  It's all that and more.  There's a soul, a feeling of depth, memory, and insight coming from its very stones.  I'm not sure if I will ever be able to put my finger on it, so the only solution is to keep going back and get to know the place a little better each time.

Our most recent trip to Paris was the last week of December.  We popped over on the train, rented a loft apartment for four days, and spent the majority of the trip walking The Dog's feet off all over the city from Trocadero to Sorbonne from the 2nd Arrondissement to Chaillot and back (because he refused to ride the Metro).  It was clear and cold for the entire trip, so we bundled up in long underwear, fleeces, parkas, hats, and mittens and strode the streets undeterred though bulkier than preferred.  It was a trip designed just for a little exploring with The Dog, cafe loitering, and some photography thrown in.  It has been a long time since we went just the two of us, so finally I felt comfortable to tote along the tripod and try my hand at those big wide night shots I'd yet to capture on previous trips.  Granted, it was mighty cold and uncomfortable when the sun wasn't around, but I'd gladly go through it again to have the privilege of capturing more of this glorious city in the low light.

I love experimenting with night photography, arriving well before sunrise or sunset to get set up and watch the light change across the landscape.  Depending on where, sometimes it's an opportunity to chat with another photographer.  In Paris, being among many in one spot is a given.  The downside is that it takes a little more planning than just walking around taking photos of whatever catches the eye.  The good "blue hour" light is only around for a short while, so I had to choose one location each evening that would be my priority.  It's a hard decision in the most photogenic city in the world.

For this trip I carried the Canon 600D fitted with the EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM and the Fujifilm X-E2.  I used my Lowepro Slingshot to carry my tripod through the day since going back to the apartment three times a day wasn't convenient (without using the Metro) nor easy (the apartment was a 6th floor walkup accessed by one of the most ridiculous staircases I have ever encountered outside a castle tower).  More on how this kit worked out at the end of the post.

I'm not a morning person, and I'm even less inclined to get up when it's 20F and I have to climb down a bazillion stairs.  Plus, this was vacation and vacation means relaxing.  But, this is Paris and sleeping instead of shooting before sunrise must be some kind of sin.  We were staying pretty close to Les Invalides so the first early morning session was there.  We walked all around the massive complex, before choosing to shoot the rear of building where Napoleon's tomb is housed.

Canon 600D 10mm f/13 .6s

Because we had The Dog with us we couldn't get into the inner courtyard, which was less than ideal.  However, this position did result in Paris' most famous landmark making a cameo.  While the focal point is certainly Napoleon's tomb, the lines of the stone walls tend to lead the eye over to the Eiffel Tower.  While it wasn't what I was originally going for, it's an interesting result I suppose.  Travel photography is teaching me to work with the situation I'm in and to make the best of it.  Sometimes I can't get where I really want to be, or I can only to discover there's a giant tarp over the building, or it's just too darn crowded.  I'm learning to compromise, experiment, and to always have a Plan B.

Another morning we walked over to Trocadero to shoot the Eiffel Tower (because you have to).  Everyone, their mothers, and pet monkeys were up on the Esplande du Trocadero waiting for the sunrise, so we opted for down below near the fountain (which was off for the winter).  I liked the angle from that level better anyway because it's in front of all the scaffolding currently draped all over the area.  There was only one other photographer down there and so we had a lovely private spot to watch the changing colors of the morning dance behind the Eiffel Tower.  I didn't want just a silhouette of the tower so the final edit is a blend of multiple exposures, hence the repeated jet streams- another result I wasn't planning on but kinda like.  Oh, and that other photographer was in the dead center of the shot, but he was wearing all black and didn't move a muscle the whole time, bless him.  I even have a hard time finding him.

Canon 600D 12mm f/10 1/50

After the sun came up each day, I stowed the Canon in the bag and switched exclusively to the X-E2.  I found myself shooting in black and white almost the entire time.  Paris lends itself so well to monochrome that it felt like the natural choice, especially with the harsh light of clear December days.

Fujifilm X-E2 24mm f/7.1 1/1000

Pont Alexandre III is one of my favorite things to gawk at in Paris.  I'm pretty sure I could spend a good portion of a day just taking its picture.  No matter how many times I walk over it, take a boat under it, or glimpse it from afar I think, "Man, that's a beautiful bridge."  It's an extravagant piece of architecture and I absolutely adore the thing.
 

Fujifilm X-E2 32mm f/9 1/400

This shot is, of course, a pretty famous view.  You'll see it on countless postcards and posters.  Despite it not being "unique," it's a classic example of good composition and I had to take it, kinda like every art student has to do a still life with some fruit at some point.  I did very little editing on this as the contrast and details were captured nicely in JPEG, JPEG, with the Fuji.  I only felt the desire to add a bit of a vignette and slap the watermark on.  Have I mentioned how much I love my X-E2?

Fujifilm X-E2 55mm f/5.6 1/500

I took this walking back from taking the Eiffel Tower shot.  When the forecast called for morning fog, I had hoped for a thick, luxurious blanket over the city.  It didn't happen, but a little clung to the trees in the park below the tower.  There was something about the scene of the park in the early morning with its maintenance tractors, mud, and garbage collectors that caught my attention.  It's a side of one the most popular tourists destinations most people don't get to see.  In a few minutes buses would unload their cargo and the area would be covered in selfie taking tourists, but for this time it was just another park on a cold winter morning.

Fujifilm X-E2 10mm f/2.8 1/125

One of the terrible things about shooting anywhere in the winter is that it's crazy cold in the morning, but one of the great things about shooting in Paris in the winter is that a warm cafe and a Chocolat Chaud are never far away.  We spent a lot of time cafe hopping that week trying to get feeling back in our fingers. 

When the sun started to head down again, we headed to the spot chosen for "Blue Hour."  The first one was Notre Dame des Paris, from below on the banks of Seine.  I had taken pictures of the famous cathedral down here before, but I've always hankered to get an evening shot when the lights were on.  

Canon 600D 10mm f/13 10s

We had quite a bit of time here while I watched the light, and I'd like take the opportunity to formally apologize to my husband and The Dog for having them sit in the wind tunnel so long.  But, I really did appreciate their company as I think it kept those creepy drunk guys at bay.  Despite the cold, I'd say this is one of the more enjoyable sessions we had.  Except for those drunk guys and one other photographer who came and went quickly, we had the place to ourselves.  I love walking along the Seine and this scene captures the mood of that experience.  Paris at night is truly something special.

Canon 600D 12mm f/13 10s

On the way back to our apartment for the night we paused at Les Deux Magots.  I do love a good Parisian cafe, and this one is a venerable establishment.  I can just imagine Monsieur Hemingway in there arguing with some unlucky soul about bullfighting technique or something.  Oh, I should mention that while our apartment's access was torture for an asthmatic, it did have quite the rewarding view at sunrise...

Fujifilm X-E2 30mm f/13 1/30

And sunset.

Fujifilm X-E2 25mm f/6.5 1/100, vibrant film simulation

My other priority "blue hour" spot was the Louvre courtyard.  It's another well know location, and a particular favorite for night photography.  There was a massive tourist presence and quite a few of us with tripods trying to get the shot without getting in each other's.  The after hours crowd in this part of Paris was pretty insane because of the nearby Christmas market on the Champs-Elysees.  It was here that I was particularly thankful to have The Dog with us as he prevented a very oblivious individual from crashing into me and my tripod.  The kid may have wet himself in fear, but I have found a new appreciation for our mean old dog.  Setting up at the Louvre was also compounded by the Museum's stupid, in my opinion, idea to set up a hideous red trailer in the courtyard.  Apparently it's going to be yet another Museum store, but I don't get the point and its location is absolutely inappropriate.  Say goodbye to any panoramic shots or, for that matter, views from the opposite side of the courtyard.  Not really a fan of the red squiggle in the pyramid either, but that's just me.  It's a beautiful location and I'm thankful to have had the opportunity to capture it, despite the difficulties.

Of course, I took quite a bit more shots on the trip and the rest of them are up on my Flickr and I've been posting a few to Instagram and Twenty20 as well.

Now for some final thoughts.  For the most part the kit worked out pretty well.  Of course, carrying everything around for several days wasn't so great.  Normally, I would leave the tripod back at the apartment and wouldn't have carried the second body, but this was a unique situation.  What it taught me was that the Slingshot bag does not work for all day carry.  The tripod positioning is awkward and tends to bash the head into walls or tourists (who may or may not deserve it).  And, the wrap around fit it crazy hard on the back.  The experience has me set on getting a regular backpack with a vertical tripod mount for days when I'm carrying a lot with me for a long period of time.  I don't do that very often, but if it comes up again, I never want to use the Slingshot.  Another weak spot in the kit is my tripod.  Its an inexpensive model, not particularly sturdy, and I knew that when I bought it.  But, after several years it's starting to get sticky and uncooperative.  In the cold, the poor thing freezes up really tight and getting it to the proper position is a battle.  I think I'll be retiring it soon.  As for cameras, carrying two around was a bit overkill, but I haven't added any new Fujinon lens yet, so that's the way it's gotta be for a while.  Their stuff requires some fancy budgeting and I have a lot of things vying for top position on my wish list.  For the time being I'll continue to use my Canon with the wide-angle lens until I can add a superior (and smaller) Fujinon.  The more I use the X-E2 the more I desire to work exclusively with their X cameras and lenses.

Fujifilm X-E2 21mm f/5.6 1/500

Taking a camera around Paris is an overwhelming, exciting, and inspiring experience.  It's one of the first places we went after we moved to Europe in 2011, and it certainly can be credited with igniting a love for photography in me.  What better place in the world to pick up a camera?  We try to get back to this beautiful city at least once a year.  I have to admit it was jarring to return home and read about the terrible events of last week taking place not far from some of the areas we were exploring.  As I said, Paris almost feels like a family member, a really artsy, eccentric, gorgeous family member.  The events of the attacks and aftermath break my heart and anger me.  It's the most beautiful city in the world and this escalation of violence on its streets is an insult.  But, we'll go back.  We'll go back soon.  I have a lot more I'd like to photograph there.  There are places we haven't been yet and spots I haven't been able to capture quite right.  I hope to be on its streets again soon with all those other photography lovers, weaving through the crowds of tourists, and snapping away.  The only way I feel we can show our support and solidarity is to not let these barbaric acts keep us away from the City of Light.

The Spirit of Christmas

Someone back home in the States said to me recently that the Germans probably have a better understanding of the meaning of Christmas and the holiday season than Americans.  I don't know about that.  I can't think of one person back home who lauds the commercialism that the season now seems to represent.  Despite what the TV, store displays, and radio would suggest, I think that most people still value traditions, time spent with family or friends, and the time of reflection of the season, not to mention the food.  It seems that every year the shopping season gets longer, the music gets worse, and the decorations more frivolous and tacky.  We all complain about it.  And, while so far the wretched inflatable decorations haven't really caught on over here, I think Germany also struggles with a corruption of the season. I've heard repeatedly from several sources in solemn tones that when it comes to the insanity of the holidays, Germany is getting out of control just like everyone else.  Seriously, with barely an observance of Halloween and certainly no Thanksgiving, the shopping season started, oh, somewhere around October 1st.  While the leaves were still mostly green, loaves of stollen and bottles of Glühwein started appearing on shelves.  While we've been spared the media inundation since we don't watch local TV or listen to radio, a trip to the grocery store last night was the only proof I needed that the Germans are just as wacky three days before Christmas as Americans.

But, there is one thing I can honestly say makes the season better in Germany.  I give to you the humble Christmas Market, known in these parts as Weihnachtsmarkt or Christkindlmarkt.  Christmas Markets started in the German speaking world sometime in the late Middle Ages.  The one downriver in Frankfurt has been going on since at least 1393.  They coincide with the four weekends of Advent.  Traditional ones end the weekend before Christmas, but nowadays some of the larger ones stay open until Christmas Eve. They've since become regular features around the Western world.  There's one on the Champs-Élysées, you can visit one in Leeds, and Akron even used have a respectable offering about 10 years ago (it has, alas, become a sad shadow of its former self.  Oh, Akron...sigh).  But, the best ones are still to be found where it all began- Germany.

Market square of Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Fujifilm X-E2 18mm f/9 1/125

This season we decided we were going to take advantage of this most wondrous cultural offering and visit as many as possible.  Somewhere between steaming cups of Glühwein, nibbling on a Schneeball, and strolling through endless stalls of goods we discovered that we started feeling, well, Christmassy.  I have this vision of what Christmas is supposed to be like, it's some sort of mashup of Dickens, pre-Christian yule, and It's a Wonderful Life.  I imagine big pots of hot drink, lots of sparkly candles, carolers, simple or elaborate food items being showcased on festive tables, and a general feeling of goodwill amongst strangers.  In short, I think Christmas is supposed to be fun, to do exactly what the old yule celebrations did- scare away the dark, cold, and general unease of winter.  Here, for the first time in I don't know how long, it felt exactly this way.  We attended 6, and maybe we'll squeeze in one more this evening.  We went to tiny ones and we went to huge ones.  We had good weather and we had truly wretched weather.  But, at every single one we had fun and there was none of that oppressive and overwhelming stressed out commercial feeling at any.  Never once did I hear a single pop Christmas song.  There wasn't an inflatable Santa on a Harley in sight either.  So, without further ado, here are some shots from the markets.

Fujifilm X-E2 18mm f/10 1/160, edit Photoshop

 This spot is one of the quintessential shots of Rothenburg ob der Tauber.  Rothenburg o.d.T is probably one of the most well known stops along the Romantic Road, a tourist route from Würzburg to Füssen.  What it is known for are the Christmas shops, museum, and the fact the old town is trapped, architecturally speaking, in the Middle Ages.  It's a beautiful place to explore, but getting a wide shot without brightly clothed and bumbling tourists is nigh impossible.  I had hoped to stick around late so the crowds would thin out, but the weather was atrocious so we high tailed it home early.

Fujifilm X-E2 42mm f/4 1/180

Paper stars are a traditional decoration at Christmas.  They are typically hung in windows, and as you can see throw off a rich and festive glow.  I found myself drawn to the stalls that sold them, and finally after much jostling in Rothenburg o.d.T I found this one that was positively infested with the beautiful things.   Of course, while trying to get the shot, about a half dozen other tourists decided I must be onto something and immediately stepped in front.  Oh, the trials of the 5'3" photographer...

Fujifilm X-E2 55mm f/5 1/250

 Würzburg is a regular haunt for us, just being about an hour down the Autobahn.  It's the northern terminus of the Romantic Road and known especially for its Baroque architecture.  I was absolutely enamored with the cream yellow facade of the Haus zum Falken in all its lavish Rococo glory.  I found the bright red of the Marienkapelle a nice contrast to its more ornate neighbor.

Fujifilm X-E2 39mm f/4 1/125, Fuji Vibrant Film Simulation

For unique shopping, the winner this year was the Ronneburg Castle Historic Market.  The parking for this one was utterly atrocious and we found ourselves climbing a rather substantial hill for about an hour before we finally entered the gates of this market.  However, it was totally worth it, and an excellent test of my new Holdfast Gear Moneymaker strap system (more on that some other time).  Here are some olive wood items for sale outside of the castle.  The grain of the wood makes for some striking patterns on the objects, so I decided to utilize the Vibrant film simulation so they'd pop just a little more.  We ended up walking away with a wonderful snack bowl and polished horn spoons from this stand.  

Fujifilm X-E2 33mm f/4.5 1/500

 The weekend of the Ronneburg market was rather brisk, which caused some excellent steam action off our clay Glühwein mugs.  It was also a great opportunity to showcase the bright clarity of the Fujinon 18-55mm lens.  

Fujifilm X-E2 41mm f/6.4 1/250

There was something about this scene of smoke wafting around the straw strewn grounds of Ronneburg Castle, the laughter, the smell of meats roasting on open fires, and the folks strolling about in tunics with swords hanging from their waists that had me saying, "This is what I always imagined Christmas to be like."  Weird, I know.  Please bear in mind I spent a good portion of my younger years studying medieval customs and architecture.  Anyway, this isn't the best shot in the world, but it captures a moment.  That's what photography is for, right?

Canon 600D 100mm f/5 1/80

I've been carry a two camera kit to the markets, the Fujifilm X-E2 for mostly wide shots and the Canon 600D with the 55-250mm for close-ups.  Most of the action the Canon saw was at Ronneburg because of the wonderfully photogenic crowd that only a Medieval Fair can attract.  This lens is no where near fast (a constant struggle at cycling races), but it works well enough for the time being when I'm trying to zero in on one person or thing and crowds or my limited height won't let me get any closer.

Canon 600D 154mm f/5.6 1/80

 These two, St. Nicholas and the Christkind (a really perplexing character who is called the Christ Child, but most definitely isn't, being an adult female and all.  I hope to get her figured out by next Christmas), were a bear to photograph.  St. Nick is, of course, a favorite with the children and his partner was handing out candies to every child in the joint.  So, they were surrounded by quite the crowd of kids hell bent on nabbing a chocolate and parents hell bent on getting a photo of their children with the pair.  This was the best I could pull off, being smaller than the average German child or parent.  Plus, good St. Nick seemed overwhelmed with the whole situation and insisted on hiding behind his counterpart for most of the time.  I didn't blame him.

Canon 600D 135mm f/5 1/80

I spotted him just as we were leaving Ronneburg for the day.  Thankfully, he didn't make for much of a moving target for my sluggish long lens.  It was only after I was looking at it in post that I noticed the wonderfully carved head on the guitar. 

Canon 600D 100mm f/5 1/150

 Here is an example of handmade Christmas decorations that you will find all over the Markets.  This one happened to be on one of the trees at the market in Würzburg.  Something about the delicate simplicity of the straw creations paired with fruit on the tree hinted at an image of Christmases long past.

Fujifilm X-E2 23mm f/5.6 1/80, Vibrant film simulation

 The light on the day we went to Michelstadt was a bit gloomy, so I shot mostly with the Vibrant film simulation.  Michelstadt is known for its timber frame buildings and the whimsical Rathaus (Town Hall) is its most famous structure.  I would have loved to have had some snow on this day, for this town is just saturated in old-timey Christmas goodness already.

Fujifilm X-E2 55mm f/4 1/180

These are the famous Franconian Schneebälle pastries.  They're basically slices of dough that are wadded up and fried in a special contraption and then covered in something.  Traditionally, they are covered in powdered sugar (my favorite), but there are many variations of the ancient treat (supposedly the recipe has been around for 300 years).  Now you can get them filled with cream or soaked in rum and covered in chocolate.  The sugar coma possibilities are endless.

  

Fujifilm X-E2 18mm f/4 1/250, Vibrant film simulation

 Every market has a giant Christmas Pyramid.  The pyramids are traditionally from the Erzgebirge Mountains, but now are popular all over Germany.  Traditionally, they featured nativity scenes or angels, but now some feature more secular scenes of village or woodland life.  This is a more modern rendition featuring one of these secular scenes.  I took this snapshot for folks back home to have an example of some typical market scenes, without thought to composition.  The light was terrible all day and the sun was heading down at this point, but thanks to my X-E2's amazing ability at high ISO levels (1000), I was able to get it handheld.  

Fujifilm X-E2 55mm f/4 1/70

 Another time I was thankful for my X-E2's lowlight capabilities (ISO 1250).  Gosh, mirrorless is a wonderful thing! We went to this market with some friends so I didn't want to carry the full set up that day and just worked with the X-E2.  It was a great opportunity to test its wide range of capabilities with just the kit lens.  

Fujifilm ISO 1250 26mm f/11 1/70

I snapped this as we were leaving Michelstadt in the evening and the sun was getting low on the horizon.  Michelstadt ended up being our favorite market of 2014, maybe it was because we shared the time with friends or it was our first one of the year, but this one had just the right ambiance.

I find myself slightly saddened by the thought that the Christmas market season has come to a close and for the first time a feeling that there is a little magic to the season.  It's not the handmade goods, or the lights, or the food, or the spiced wine (ok, maybe it is the spiced wine).  I think that it mostly has to do with these wonderful markets fostering a feeling of well being amongst the vendors and attendees.  People go, and not just tourists, to have basic seasonal fun.  At the markets you can sing along with the carolers and fight the cold with a mug of mulled goodness just like the yule celebrations of yore, buy wonderful little homemade Christmas wreaths like those in a Dickens tale, and happily wish everyone you pass a "Frohe Weihnachte!" like one would in a German speaking Bedford Falls.  That just warms the cockles of my heart.  I hear there's still one market operating today down the road.  If you need me this evening I'll be standing around a barrel laughing with some strangers, sipping Glühwein, snapping some pictures, and feeling mighty pleased with the whole situation.  Who knows, maybe it'll even give The Dog a feeling of goodwill toward men.  Christmas miracles do happen...

More photos can be viewed on Flickr and will be popping up on Instagram

Moving On

Happy Thanksgiving to all my readers in the USA!  It's hard to believe we're back in the holiday season already.  While we are having a typical Thursday here in Lux, our thoughts are with everyone back home and especially with friends and family who we miss.  Sometimes we think that the holiday season is about the traditions, the celebrations, the to do lists, and the inevitable stress.  But, I think I can speak for all those who live far away from their homes when I say that the holidays are really all about spending time with those you love.  So, despite all the hassles that come along with this time of year, treasure those times and make the most of them.

My husband and I had a quiet Thanksgiving dinner just the two of us last Sunday night.  We are just finishing up those leftovers today.  We didn't order a turkey from the UK this year, but decided to just do chicken.  There wasn't pumpkin pie.  I didn't pull out the decorations.  Before you start thinking we've fallen into a holiday depression, let me explain.  We've been a little busy.  While normally we would like to have the usual shindig with all the trimmings, we spent most of the weekend taking pictures off the walls, sorting our belongings, and deconstructing furniture.  It turns out our tour here in Luxembourg is ending sooner than originally planned.  As things stand now, we'll be moving out of the house, out of Ettelbruck, and out of Luxembourg before the end of the year.  Instead of heading back home, however, we're going to be setting up shop a little further to the east, just outside of Frankfurt, Germany.

We're pretty excited to say the least.  While starting the house hunting process and getting the legalities settled once more feels a bit daunting, it's kind of fun to be at square one again.  We'll get to learn about a new place and culture, and new opportunities will present themselves.  I'm pleased to have more time in Europe than we thought we would.  This move means a bonus year.  Now we will have a chance to get to those places on our list we thought we'd miss.  It'll be interesting to try my hand with German too.  I mean, it can't be any worse than my French.  It's a brand new adventure and yet another chance to experience the blank slate of expat life.  My husband is the first American to be assigned to this branch of the company, so we're definitely walking into unknown territory and breaking new trail.  We certainly can't say this will be a dull experience.  This coming weekend we're off to find a new house and town to live in.  No doubt we'll be spending our Christmas break sorting the kitchen and unpacking boxes.  Once again, we're leaping into the unknown.

So, on this day when we think of all the things we're thankful for I know I have a lot to list.  It has been an amazing experience in Luxembourg.  We have learned so much about the world we live in and who we are just in these two years.  We've met and formed relationships with an incredible group of people from all over the globe, relationships that have been at the core of an overall positive experience here.  We have been to beautiful, life changing places.  We've had a lot of epiphanies.  We're so very thankful to have the opportunity to continue the experience from a new locale.  Most of all, we're thankful for the friends and family at home who have supported us on this journey.  It means a great deal to be remembered and to hear from them, especially at this time of year.  We know this chance isn't a common one and there's no way to describe how grateful we are to have been presented with it.  Thanks of course to all of you who keep reading this too.

Happy Thanksgiving and while we're at it, Wir wünschen Ein frohes Fest!

The Essentials of Travel

We are often asked for travel tricks and tips by those preparing to spend some time in Europe.  Many ask, "What do I need to know that may not be in the guidebooks?"  Others need some help packing.  International travel (and packing for it) can be an intimidating process if experience is limited.  But, like everything else, the more you do it the easier it is.  Of course, even if you travel frequently in the United States and have the logistical end of things well mastered, the game is a little different for international travel.  So, what should you know/do/pack if you're coming over to Europe?  Here are some things we've picked up over the last year and a half that you may find useful.

1.  Get some good luggage.  Now, I don't mean buy a full set at the department store.  If you only have two bags to schlep through the airport, on the train, the bus, and up those twisty hotel steps, getting from point A to B is going to much easier on you and your back.  I bring two bags- a backpack and a small carry-on sized suitcase with wheels.  The backpack keeps my hands free to manage doors and the suitcase is lightweight and maneuverable.  Once I'm at my destination the backpack takes over as my camera bag & day bag.  Purses really aren't practical for sightseeing trips unless you can carry yours over your shoulder.  If you're sightseeing you will want a bag that can take a beating and keep on trucking.  I highly recommend one that has a built in rain cover.  You may laugh, but we'll see who's laughing after that afternoon flash storm in Barcelona.  If you plan on bringing photo equipment, see about getting a bag that can carry it safely and also has room for other things you want during the day.  Having to carry a separate bag for the camera is a pain.

2.  The most important skill to master for traveling whether you're going abroad or a few states over is how to pack light.  How do you pack light?  Seriously look at your travel plans before you start packing.  Are you walking a lot for sightseeing?  Will you be solo?  Meeting people?  Attending a nice dinner with a group?  Unless there is a reason on your schedule to bring a specific outfit, ie. athletic clothing, evening wear, etc., leave that stuff at home.  But what if something comes up?  Then have things that you can make work.  Focus on versatile attire.  For example, slacks that can go casual or business casual.  Remember, trousers are heavy, but good ones can work for many days.  Only bring a couple pairs (including the ones you wear on the plane).  Shoes can be a big hang up for people.  My tip:  Leave your cute wedges that go with that one skirt at home.  Pack one (maybe two) pairs of shoes that will go with everything in your suitcase.  Make sure that everything you pack is comfortable.  But, avoid throwing items in that scream "tourist" like your Disney World t-shirt and your bright white New Balance sneakers.  Think about it this way, would you wear that if you weren't traveling?  If not ask yourself why you think you need it.  Do you?  Really?  A safari hat in Rome?  We'll get to avoiding tourist behavior later.  As for toiletries, except for items that you personally need such as cosmetics, medication, or allergy free products, you don't have to bring everything with you.  Hotels usually have shampoos, soaps, and hairdryers.  You can pick up other items as needed once you're there.

3.  Here are the essential things I always carry in my day bag.
- Tissues.  Besides having them on hand for their intended purpose, they will you save from the inevitable "the bathroom doesn't have toilet paper" situation.  It happens more often then you would think.
- Hand sanitizer.  Some people think it's lame, but seriously you will find soap even less than you find toilet paper (yes, even in Paris).  Additionally, not everyone has the hygiene standards you do.  You don't want to take home a souvenir virus or worse have one strike in the middle of your trip.  Pro tip: If you're squeamish, pay public restrooms are much cleaner than ones in restaurants and cafes.  You get what you pay for.
- Pocket Knife.  You may need to slice your takeaway pizza in half, open a stubborn package, or do some minor repairs on clothing.  A trusty, simple pocket knife can solve many problems.  Now, keep in mind that there are more knife laws in Europe than the United States.  Traditional pocket knives are OK, just make sure the blade isn't spring loaded, double edged, or long.  Need a guideline?  A traditional Swiss Army knife is a good standard.
- Corkscrew/Bottle Opener.  I can't tell you how much time we've wasted looking for something to pop a cap off with before we finally started carrying a bottle opener on us.  Go for the corkscrew/church key combo so you can tackle any beverage container challenge.
- First Aid Kit.  A small bag with some Band Aids, pain killers, and antibiotic cream can take care of minor needs (careful with that pocket knife!) so you don't have to go on a pharmacy hunt.  Pro Tip:  24 Hour pharmacies are rarities and few are open on Sundays.  Carry the basics and avoid the hassle.  Over-the-Counter medication isn't common on the Continent, even aspirin can cost quite a bit and must be purchased from a pharmacist.
- Hard copies.  Even in the age of smart phones and tablets, it's still best to have a paper backup for your hotel/flight/train information, a map, and a phrasebook.  Don't expect WiFi and 3G to be as available or reliable as it is in the States.  Even if you don't end up needing it, play it safe.  Pro Tip:  If you end up losing your Passport, a photocopy can go a long way in the replacement process at the Embassy.

Some other essentials: An electric converter to charge electronics, a coin purse, and travel journal to stash mementos
and jot down some thoughts.

4.  Bring a camera that you know how to use.  Even if all you have is a smartphone, that'll do.  You will want to have pictures of your trip and loved ones will want to see them.  Don't run out to the camera shop and buy the best one on the shelf without knowing how to take pictures with it.  I can't tell you how many people I see with high end cameras that they have set to Auto.  If you want to take a camera but you're not into photography, just go with a point and shoot and save some space and money.  Pro tip:  Never, ever, and I mean ever, use your Tablet as a camera.  Ever.  No excuses.

5.  Find balance.  No, I don't mean start off every day meditating in your hotel room (unless you want to).  Balance your plans for the trip.  If every day is packed with sightseeing and tours, you're going to burn out, you will get bored, and you'll get cranky.  Have days for sightseeing focusing on stuff that you want to see and do, not what the guidebooks say you have to see and do (personally, I found the Mona Lisa to be overrated).  Schedule in relaxing pursuits.  Even plan on sleeping in one or two days.  You'll thank yourself for the breaks.  Even if you love cities, still make sure you get out into the countryside so you can see more traditional culture, the natural beauty of Europe,  and be in a more relaxing environment for a little down time.

6.  Be a tourist without being one.  Don't be the ugly American.  Travelers that have fully embraced the tourist look are targets for pickpockets and they are incredibly annoying for the rest of us.  There's more to this than what you wear.  Body language and public behavior are just as important.  Besides leaving your safari hat and Hawaiian shirt at home, pay attention to what you are doing when you're out and about.  Watch where you are walking.  Take a note of how locals cross streets and interact in public.  If you need to consult a map, don't suddenly stop without warning to do so in the middle of the crowded town square.  A confused group of people turning round and round pointing at stuff is a dead giveaway.  It's OK to be confused, just don't make it obvious that you are.  Also, match your speaking volume to those around you.  This is a courtesy thing.  We Americans can be be pretty loud, especially at meal times.  While that is fine at Applebee's, it is extremely inappropriate in just about every European restaurant.  Pro Tip:  While they may not always admit it, many Europeans can understand English.  So, while you may not be able to understand their conversations, there's a good chance they can understand yours.  Don't be a jerk.

7.  Shop outside the box.  Whether you're picking up something for yourself or a gift for someone back home, look for things that are locally made and representative of the place.  Even better, look for something you can use back home so every time you do you can remember your trip.  Boutiques, art districts, and markets are the places to go for these items.  If you're lucky you can talk to the craftsman and get a more personal take on your purchase.

8.  Rent houses or apartments instead of staying in hotels.  Believe it or not, in most cases short term rentals will be significantly cheaper than a hotel for the same amount of time.  With a rental you can get more space and more options.  Many of them have kitchens so you can save a ton of money (and have more fun) by going to the local market and cooking up some regional products a couple evenings during your stay.  Most landlords are also locals and if you can communicate (many speak English), they can answer questions and give ideas that a concierge may not know.  Plus, your money isn't going to a big hotel chain, but right into the local economy.  With websites like HomeAway you can set all sorts of criteria in your search from pet friendly to internet access.

9.  Take the roads less traveled.  Public transportation systems in most Europe are lightyears beyond those in the States and it can usually be figured out easily.  But, if you do plan on getting a car for a more flexible travel schedule, get a GPS and don't be afraid to set it to "Avoid Highways."  Highway congestion, especially in summer, is as bad as morning rush hour but it lasts all day (and no, not just around Brussels).  By jumping off the highway you usually add very little travel time and you get to see the countryside and cool little spots you would never have come across.  Sometimes these little adventures are the best part of the trip!

10.  Attitude is everything.  If you step off the plane terrified of where you're headed, you aren't going to have a lot of fun.  If you go by cultural stereotypes you are going to miss out on meeting a lot of cool people.  Sure, there are jerks out there, but remember there are jerks in your hometown too.  Learn a few words of the language; the big ones- Please, thank you, hello, and goodbye.  Showing respect goes a long way with everyone.  Smile when you interact with people.  If they're not used to talking in your language, they are probably a little uncomfortable too.  If you start everyday with a good attitude and ready for a little adventure, you will have a well-rounded experience and you'll have a blast.

So, those are my ten big tips for traveling in Europe, and, I guess, traveling in general.  Hope they help you on your trips.  The important thing is being willing to ditch the all-inclusive resorts, the theme parks, and the cruise ships and get out there.  Traveling abroad will change your life.  Enjoy the journey!

That Relish

www.wikipedia.org

Cranberry Relish.

For years and years, it has appeared on our Thanksgiving table.  For years and years, it sat untouched.  For some reason it had to be there despite the fact no one sitting around the table particularly cared for it.  But, its presence was seemingly just as important as the turkey, stuffing, and sweet potatoes.

The cranberry, of course, is synonymous with New England culture.  The American Indians had been using cranberries for food, medicine, and even dye throughout eastern North America.  They introduced them to the hapless English settlers at Plymouth Colony.  Supposedly, cranberries have been gracing Thanksgiving tables ever since.  Cranberry cultivation became an important contributor to the economy in modern day Massachusetts and other parts of the United States where they grow in abundance.  If you ever have a chance to see a cranberry harvest, it is quite the sight.  One of my memories from my years working in Plymouth, MA was stopping by the Ocean Spray store on the waterfront for a cranberry something and having a taste of cranberry wine at the local wine shop.  Cranberries, apparently, are just as important to the local economy as the Pilgrims themselves.  Today, of course, cranberries have been named members of the power food club, due to their potential benefits for urinary tract health.  Cranberries and cranberry juice can be found year round, and make frequent appearance in "health food" products and recipes.

Ok, now back to the relish.  You can buy it in a can, you can buy it in a jar.  You can buy the raw ingredients to make it yourself and add another step to your Thanksgiving preparations.  This year, we picked up a jar of Ocean Spray relish at the British specialty shop down in Capellen.  As usual, sit sat mostly untouched in its bowl.  It was there, that's all that matters.  It wouldn't have been a proper Thanksgiving feast without it, you know.

There was one year we decided to go a little crazy by revisiting the cranberry relish issue.  My husband made "Mama Stamberg's Cranberry Relish" which he heard about on NPR.  While the mixture of fresh cranberries, onion, sour cream, and horseradish may sound like the worst concoction of a condiment to ever appear on a holiday table, let me tell you, it beats the pants off of those abhorrent slices of jelly from the can.  Don't believe me?  Well, according to NPR it's been a popular topic on the airwaves since first introduced to the American public in 1971.  Martha Stewart and, uh, Coolio both approve, so it's worth a shot, right?

Anyway, whatever your opinion on the infamous cranberry relish, there's one thing we can agree on.  This time of year can be full of activities and traditions we may not be particularly fond of- Black Friday, sitting down to dinner with those people (we all have them), untangling Christmas lights, having to listen to Santa Baby one too many times, trying to figure out what present to buy Uncle Herb (the man without a single interest or hobby) yet again, seeing the neighbors have purchased another tacky addition to their inflatable decoration collection, elbowing through the crowds in the store on December 23rd to get that one thing you forgot the other day, and cranberry relish.

Nevertheless, despite all the hassle, there's something special about the holiday season.  No matter how jaded we get, there's a moment somewhere along the way that gives us the warm fuzzies.  It might be sitting back and enjoying the decorations in all their lit and untangled glory, hearing Bing Crosby's White Christmas on the radio, Mom's stuffing, the smell of fresh cut pine, egg nog, mulled wine, Great Lakes Christmas Ale, holiday edition coffee, Rankin-Bass Christmas specials, the first snowfall, Linus reading from Luke in A Charlie Brown Christmas, a fire on the hearth, or the look on someone's face when they open their gift.  There's always something that get's you.  That's the moment when all the other stuff about the holidays doesn't matter, it's that feeling we look forward to.  It makes the crap worth it.

Whether the big day is St. Nicholas Day, Feast of the Immaculate Conception, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, St. Stephen's Day, Boxing Day, or New Year's Eve, when you find yourself in that moment enjoy every minute.  These times are meant to be savored.

So, give in, celebrate, pass the relish, and have a very happy holiday!